Neotuck Posted July 7, 2018 Share Posted July 7, 2018 Here's a simple LOX machine Takes polluted O2 from morbs at 15C and runs it them though 14 regulators bringing the temp down to -180C Then the last room has hydrogen that loops though a single regulator to condense the cold PO2 into LOX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZanthraSW Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 9 hours ago, Neotuck said: Here's a simple LOX machine Takes polluted O2 from morbs at 15C and runs it them though 14 regulators bringing the temp down to -180C Then the last room has hydrogen that loops though a single regulator to condense the cold PO2 into LOX Cooling oxygen by Thermoregulator is quite energy inefficient, especially with 500g packets. You could try having a standing LOX pool cooled by Aquatuner (with a thermosensor set to above -200C). That would be a little more than three times the cooling per watt. Tempshift tiles at the pool surface will quickly liquify any PO2 pumped into the room. Then a hydro sensor can be used to pump LOX out into an evaporator to maintain a constant level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowMaybe Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 Simple waste water treatment + cooler. 10 kg chunks take a while to be germ-free, so a valve might help ensure more consistent water output. Spoiler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLW Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 @SlowMaybe Neat. I keep forgetting that radiant pipes mean that you don't need nearly so many pumps. That build will have a couple of problems if/when the output backs up. Sooner or later the output valve will stop pumping, and the loop will recirculate until it freezes. You should probably have a pipe thermo sensor immediately before the aquatuner. Also if/when the output backs up the output will start seeing rather variable temperature. The issue here being that you can have a, say, 40C packet sitting on the valve, and a -12C packet sitting on the temperature sensor. Ditto with the input and germs... you can have a germy packet sitting on the valve and a non-germy packet sitting on the germ detector. I recently fixed this issue in one of my own builds... Basically you "need" to have sensors in loops with the loopback having priority over the input, and use a filter gate set to a long enough time that the loopback can circulate a full loop before the gate activates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slvrsrfr Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 I really enjoyed all the advice and examples. Thanks! What are some of the tips and tricks to avoid the unmitigated hell-scape at the bottom of the 'planetary' map? As I understand and see it, it is kinda a huge threat. The colony can be going along swimmingly, yet the eruption and fire building below will start consuming biomes, and irrevocably start destroying resources. And, I understand that if the contents of the screen, 'planet', burn, then that's it, you are done, you have officially run out of resources and your colony is dead or will be. In one of my saves I kept wondering why do I hear these weird rumbling noises, and the tall edge of the map had nothing in it. The world had burned away because a oil geyser thingy burned through the abysallite boundary and set the world ablaze. Little did I know. Now that save is worthless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vonVile Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Though its still a WIP here's my Puft Slime Cube. Its built to produce Slime through tons of Pufts without activating Overcrowding by dividing the space into small compartments. There's an air circulation system to pump out Oxygen created by Pufts deleting PO, an air sensor to open Mechanical Airlocks if PO gets too low, and a liquid Polluted Oxygen Farm. The Stable uses the maximum space allowed. With this set up I had it at 95 tiles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slvrsrfr Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Great thread.... love the layouts and explainers... I need all the super low tech solutions to some of the issues....any guides for those? Or more advice? Practical cycles that lead to dirt cultivation. How many native soil plants does it take to feed 3 dupes and still produce compost? How to maximize native soil plant outputs. Alternatives to lice diets. Is being idle actually good sometimes in early game to limit calorie burn? What is the most accurate temperature is keep dupes at, what does the game expect? Explanations of other low tech cultivation methods for the other biomes. ad nausem(sp?)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kabrute Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 1 sieveing pwater turns sand into pdirt 2. too many variables it could be done with as few as 12 plants per dupes roughly, less with eggs/barbeque 3. farm station works on some wild plants(pepper nuts) exploit, may be patched in the future 4. All of them..... mushrooms turn slime into a +2 food, bristles are +1, become +2 from cooking, and top out at +4 with a peppernut 5. no 6. Depends on immersion, in hydrogen and all liquids, a temp as close to 29c as possible is optimum, in most other gasses, 10 to 45c are fine 7. Trial and error, slime is the more challenging because you typically aren't using exosuits the first time you try to clear one...... these exosuits make environments trivial.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evaris Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 So, I figure I'll post these over here as well. Just a couple of terrarium rooms to maximize efficiency; One for dupe time expense and resource efficiency, able to support six dupes: The other for maximizing offgassing to support an extra dupe beyond the terrariums, for a total of a population of eight supported: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenologist Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 I have a few things. A Bristle Blossom Farm that has use Spoiler The water is a mix of excess purified toilet water and fresh mini lake water (Didn't find a steam geyser yet) The hydrogen is fresh cooled from a ice biome The Therm sensor is set to 50 degrees farenheit Over all, this was a mixture of brothgar's mealwood cooling combined with the bristle blossom farm he made. Works like a charm. The radiated pipes are copper ore. The normal are abysallite. I'd like some feedback on how to improve it in a way of not increasing the temperature of the hydrogen on the way there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kabrute Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 I find it easiest to cool the water, letting me build much larger farms without as many worries..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLW Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 14 hours ago, Slvrsrfr said: planetary' map? Which map is this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slvrsrfr Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 how is it that people have so much trouble with that term? The map, the big map, call it whatever you want.... the world, the map we play on, the game. It's not confusing, not misleading, a straight forward description of the confines within which we play, commonly referred to as, 'THE WORLD'. JFC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicide commando Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 I thought I'd drop this in here.. it's just a quick little ditty I made in debug, but it is trivial to build in the normal game. What it does is kill critters. All you have to do is drop them off in there, and then the next morning, a nice bit of meat will be waiting for your dupes to cook. How it works is, that during the night, the clock sensor triggers to ON, through the NOT gate, it then closes the bottom row of doors and the top row 1 second later with a buffer gate. This pushes the water that is held in the basin up through the mesh tiles into the ranch and drowns your critters in there. Once the clock sensor switches back to OFF, the doors reopen, the water recedes and your meat is ready to be cooked. View post on imgur.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slvrsrfr Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 45 minutes ago, suicide commando said: I thought I'd drop this in here.. it's just a quick little ditty I made in debug, but it is trivial to build in the normal game. What it does is kill critters. All you have to do is drop them off in there, and then the next morning, a nice bit of meat will be waiting for your dupes to cook. How it works is, that during the night, the clock sensor triggers to ON, through the NOT gate, it then closes the bottom row of doors and the top row 1 second later with a buffer gate. This pushes the water that is held in the basin up through the mesh tiles into the ranch and drowns your critters in there. Once the clock sensor switches back to OFF, the doors reopen, the water recedes and your meat is ready to be cooked. View post on imgur.com I have not seen the clock sensor menu yet so I don't know it, good to see though. Edit~The game really should have a more accurate depiction of time, certainly. Imo. I know I can mouse over the spinny meteor thingy, that's great, thhnxx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kabrute Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 2 hours ago, Slvrsrfr said: how is it that people have so much trouble with that term? The map, the big map, call it whatever you want.... the world, the map we play on, the game. It's not confusing, not misleading, a straight forward description of the confines within which we play, commonly referred to as, 'THE WORLD'. JFC. if you enable debug we get map options, there are other worlds available, helicona and the rock by default.... this is the likely source of the confusion when you specifically said a "planetary" map while I think the majority of us believed we were on an asteroid up till recently.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slvrsrfr Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 enabling debug is not the same as utilizing the sandbox, I assume then....I am unfamiliar with any debugger, nor do I use one in conjuction with my play. I'll stop saying planetary... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slvrsrfr Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 On 7/2/2018 at 2:58 PM, SamLogan said: ...Sorry it's in French and in a early stage but maybe it could gives you some ideas to organize all the set up.... Thanks for the web page link, you gave me an epiphany even though I can't read french. I need farm stations....thank you.... The picture of the bristle blossom shed. just the picture made me realize what my crops are missing in my game, one of my big struggles. I've never researched the farm station. And I was unaware of the room thing at the beginning. 16 hours ago, Kabrute said: 1 sieveing pwater turns sand into pdirt 2. too many variables it could be done with as few as 12 plants per dupes roughly, less with eggs/barbeque 3. farm station works on some wild plants(pepper nuts) exploit, may be patched in the future 4. All of them..... mushrooms turn slime into a +2 food, bristles are +1, become +2 from cooking, and top out at +4 with a peppernut 5. no 6. Depends on immersion, in hydrogen and all liquids, a temp as close to 29c as possible is optimum, in most other gasses, 10 to 45c are fine 7. Trial and error, slime is the more challenging because you typically aren't using exosuits the first time you try to clear one...... these exosuits make environments trivial.... thoughtful feedback, thank you very much. I'm not sure my heart agrees with your #2, I'm gonna keep fighting the good fight on that one. I am pretty close to a balance, I think. I want to see if farm stations make a difference(#3). I have not even attempted to brave the other biomes, much, other than to pass thru. One of the game creators, at least, sure loves their swamp biomes. I find them unsettling, as I am highly pollution adverse. Hot ones are cool. Is it as high as 12 per dupe? damn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowMaybe Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 On 7/15/2018 at 12:12 AM, TLW said: That build will have a couple of problems if/when the output backs up. Hmm, that's true, I haven't had enough toilet output to observe this yet. The radiant loop can get clogged up if dirty water input overwhelms the loop before germ-free water can exit. I have an idea of using memory toggle to limit entry into the radiant loop until something exits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghale Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 On 7/7/2018 at 3:08 PM, Soulwind said: Here's my Drecko farm (still early in the game and they haven't dropped any glossy eggs yet, but should be soon). This is at the bottom of my living area in the CO2 zone. It's hard to see, but that ladder lip is actually 1 tile of ~1000g H2, 1 tile of ~300g Chlorine, and 1 tile of ~1500g CO2. I've found that just having the H2/CO2 will eventually allow some CO2 packets to push their way into the H2 area, but adding a single tile of Chlorine in there too prevents that from happening. And here's my Pacu aquarium, which also doubles as my cool water (germy) for berries and the base radiator cooling system as well as gas cooling. I feed a Pacu until it's tamed and has lived one lifetime of happy breeding, after that I stop feeding and just let the explosion of Pacu continue on their own. They are pretty good at usually dropping at least 2 eggs before they die of starvation. This tank started with 1 Pacu and now has 7 Pacu, 1 Gulp, and 2 gulp eggs still growing in it. Can u show me more about the pacu tank, how did u do that in only 114 cycle? thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulwind Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 I had the dupes carry in a wild pacu egg very early on (just dug into the slime biome, grabbed it and left before too much slimelung) and put it into a storage container, then got rid of the storage container and finished filling the tank (consolidating all my starter biome water … and I've also filled it since then with water from the geyser that I have above the living area). Put in a fish feeder and feed the pacu for a generation or two and there will be plenty of eggs around after that. Then just remove the feeder (or leave it in if you want, you might want to start feeding them again to cause another population explosion in the future). I have the water being pumped through an off screen aquatuner, then cycling through my base as a radiator system, feeding a berry farm, and finally dropping back into the tank for another cycle through the aquatuner. Eventually the whole pool is at 20 C (which is where I stop it so the aquatuner doesn't freeze it). I also have the lavatory water going in after purification so the pool is filled with FP germs, but that doesn't matter since I cook all my food (and I have a clean water tank there too, although it hasn't really been used much since I moved to berry/eggs/shrooms). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBrain0110 Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 On 7/14/2018 at 9:36 PM, Slvrsrfr said: I really enjoyed all the advice and examples. Thanks! What are some of the tips and tricks to avoid the unmitigated hell-scape at the bottom of the 'planetary' map? As I understand and see it, it is kinda a huge threat. The colony can be going along swimmingly, yet the eruption and fire building below will start consuming biomes, and irrevocably start destroying resources. And, I understand that if the contents of the screen, 'planet', burn, then that's it, you are done, you have officially run out of resources and your colony is dead or will be. In one of my saves I kept wondering why do I hear these weird rumbling noises, and the tall edge of the map had nothing in it. The world had burned away because a oil geyser thingy burned through the abysallite boundary and set the world ablaze. Little did I know. Now that save is worthless. What are you talking about? I've never seen anything burn through abysallite, in fact it's literally impossible. The magma & oil biomes are pretty self-contained, they don't heat up surrounding biomes at all, much less burn them up. I suppose if you had a volcano geyser spewing unchecked in a different biome it might be an issue eventually, but I'm pretty sure they only ever spawn covered up, you'd have to dig them out to start erupting, and then just box it in abyssalite tiles and it'll stop itself. And even that hardly counts as a fiery hellscape consuming the map or setting the world ablaze. Don't get me wrong, it would be kinda neat if such things could happen, but as far as I know none of what you said is at all part of the game I'm playing xD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherBoris Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 So, let's talk about Airlocks Standard airlocks are reliable, like the AK-47, but they are damn huge and require a lot of liquid. 1000 + kg for standard and 3000+ for double-hop. Improved airlocks are very convenient, compact, but easily broken, including due to bugs in the game. In addition, they are difficult to build and very difficult to repair. Therefore, I present to you the latest development of Russian scientists: semi-improveded airlocks! T-shape now! Basic form: Another Variant: Thermally insulated: Thermally insulated, vertical variant: As you can easily see, the structures are easy to build, easy to repair and do not break even if you pour liquid in them from either side. Enjoi! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimgaw Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 @AnotherBoris I'd argue the terminology here. You're showing liquid lock(s). I avoid liquid locks like plague. They simplify the 'gas game' way too much. This is exit form my base: Spoiler Spoiler No outside gases enter my base, only oxygen leaks out, but that's a good thing. Exactly what you'd want in this application with minimal power usage. (Automation is basically NOT O2) For absolutely no gas exchange application I use tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherBoris Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 24 minutes ago, Grimgaw said: I'd argue the terminology here. heh. Maybe But I would call your design "floodgate". Two doors, and pump between them. Standart floodgate. And very energy hungry in your case Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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