Neotuck

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About Neotuck

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  1. Both clean PW and germy PW need to pass though the sensor at least once. That's why I included showers with my bathroom loop. If you don't want to have showers then pump some PW from a nearby swamp biome when filling the pipes Personally I have a water/PW airlock that I use to build the chlorine room. Once it's finished I seal the room and pump the water from the lock to the resevroir. That resets the sensor so it works properly.
  2. I'm on family vacation for Easter so I'm reading/replying to the forums from my phone. By the time I get home I'll share my picture of my early drako farm that doesn't use exo suits. The grooming station and shearing station is on the same lvl as the mealwood so there's plenty of oxygen to breath
  3. Just be sure to stop feeding the stone hatch metal ore once you see your first smooth egg. Don't want to waste your metal. Also you don't need to have a full 8 smooth hatches. You can mix them with sage hatches in one stable. The sage hatches won't eat the metal ore.
  4. You might be right, I'll have to check up on that
  5. Well start with normal hatches and feed them sedentary rock untill you get a stone hatch. Then feed the stone hatch metal ore of your choice, until it lays a smooth egg. Smooth hatches eat metal ore and poop refined metal at 95% efficiency. That's better than the rock crusher that refines metals at 50%.
  6. I have used radiant pipes in a vacuum and the temperature equalizeals very quickly. Yes they take a little damage and some leaks at first. But never breaks all the way and you only need to repair once I find transporting steam works best for this method when building steam rockets.
  7. I mentioned in another thread I tend to set up hatch stables early for coal production. I tend to save one stable for smooth hatches to get refined metal as soon as possible. My usual goal is to have automation available by cycle 50. As for plastic I try to also ranch a drecko into glossy as soon as possible. A single glossy can supply enough plastic for 4 germ sensors after one shearing. But this is my playstyle and I understand if this doesn't work for everyone.
  8. Why is a chlorine geyser needed?
  9. Very true, I don't usually have a chlorine room setup till about cycle 100s You might get lucky and get some plastic from the printing pod. And unless you have an infected PW geyser than a single reservoir should handle your bathroom.
  10. This is true, just be careful not to use too much water without a reliable source. I just perfer to "nip it in the bud" by disinfecting the PW before sieving it and then you won't have to worry about placing sinks everywhere.
  11. My dirt farm doesn't rely on Pdirt from sieves unless I have sufficient PW geysers. Before pepper bread I farm pakus and stuffed berries. If there isn't enough PW geysers then I decompost the meat and berries. As for the pipes I was referring to radiant pipes in a vacuum as an alternative to using insulated pipes. However that won't work under the rockets. Not a problem for early steam rockets though
  12. If the pipes are in range of rocket exhaust then yes insulated pipes are the best choice
  13. What if a dupe who is covered in germs and then transports crops?
  14. I owe you an apology, I forgot our earlier conversation. I'm pretty active in the forums and speak to a lot of people so sometime I forget who I spoke to. To clarify most of my oxygen production come from algea terrariums combined with deodorizers so I get lots of clay and never need to use PW from slush geysers.
  15. If you produce you liquid hydrogen and oxygen in the surface near your rockets. Then you can just use radiant pipes. They will only leak at first while the temperature equalizeals and once they do the vacuum will maintain a perfect insulation. Is that from experience? Because from my experience it doesn't take much PW in bottles to run some deodorizers to supply your colony with oxygen and more than enough clay for ceramics.