Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I just make a setup like this for every asteroid:

2075080788_Screenshotfrom2021-06-0110-27-17.thumb.png.4a801b541dd15b1b80cf2ce7cf9043a1.png1524268498_Screenshotfrom2021-06-0110-24-19.png.9c8f1582b92e8f83741dd99aed90e9ba.png

 

The power consumption for a CO2 pit freezer is negligible, considerably less than powering a fridge. The heat output is also not significant, likely less than the Electric Range.

It's also fine to use Natural Gas as the coolant for a Thermo Regulator if it's more convenient than Hydrogen, it's only an 8% efficiency penalty compared with Hydrogen.

I always make the CO2 pit at least 3 tiles deep, I make it deeper as in this screenshot if there's a lot of polluted oxygen around or not a lot of CO2 production. I generally set the temperature threshold to something like -28 C, this is so that if dupe pee gets in the pit the pee freezes instantly into harmless polluted ice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, blakemw said:

I just make a setup like this for every asteroid:

2075080788_Screenshotfrom2021-06-0110-27-17.thumb.png.4a801b541dd15b1b80cf2ce7cf9043a1.png

Doesn't this indicate that there is something very, very wrong with refrigerators, that it's better to build an air conditioner next to it and then use that to refrigerate the fridge, than it is to power the refrigerator?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Yobbo said:

Doesn't this indicate that there is something very, very wrong with refrigerators, that it's better to build an air conditioner next to it and then use that to refrigerate the fridge, than it is to power the refrigerator?

Not really. It's pretty common that player-made builds can be more efficient than the provided building. For example you could almost certainly make a desalinator build which uses less power and produces less heat than the actual Desalinator.

Also in real life, chest freezers are like stupid energy-efficient. granted they normally have a lid (not always), but even without the lid the way convection works means cold tends to stay down in the pit and they usually have thick insulated walls. A refrigerator has a big thermal weak point in the form of its tall vertical door which just can't be that well insulated.

If there's one thing I don't like about the refrigerator, I feel that a powered refrigerator should shield the contents from polluted air, like it's sealed and could have a tiny magical deodorizer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, blakemw said:

I just make a setup like this for every asteroid:

2075080788_Screenshotfrom2021-06-0110-27-17.thumb.png.4a801b541dd15b1b80cf2ce7cf9043a1.png1524268498_Screenshotfrom2021-06-0110-24-19.png.9c8f1582b92e8f83741dd99aed90e9ba.png

 

The power consumption for a CO2 pit freezer is negligible, considerably less than powering a fridge. The heat output is also not significant, likely less than the Electric Range.

It's also fine to use Natural Gas as the coolant for a Thermo Regulator if it's more convenient than Hydrogen, it's only an 8% efficiency penalty compared with Hydrogen.

I always make the CO2 pit at least 3 tiles deep, I make it deeper as in this screenshot if there's a lot of polluted oxygen around or not a lot of CO2 production. I generally set the temperature threshold to something like -28 C, this is so that if dupe pee gets in the pit the pee freezes instantly into harmless polluted ice.

Wouldn't an AT, small battery and thermo sensor be more efficient? the battery will absorb the peaks, but as you would still need to move the same amount of heat anyways, the power efficiency would be better

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A wheezewort in hydrogen will keep the pit at -30C.  Takes about 10 cycles to get there, but after that, it's just works.  Without the temperature regulator, it will liquify your CO2.  Remember, wheezewort works on the specific heat of its surrounding gas, provides max cooling in hydrogen.  

 

foodstorage.thumb.png.88a986446062a845972d5dbc9e28e74c.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Yobbo said:

Doesn't this indicate that there is something very, very wrong with refrigerators, that it's better to build an air conditioner next to it and then use that to refrigerate the fridge, than it is to power the refrigerator?

Well, you know, dupe "engineering" at work. But yes, we should have a "freezer" building, the current fridge has pretty much outlived its usefulness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, he77789 said:

Wouldn't an AT, small battery and thermo sensor be more efficient? the battery will absorb the peaks, but as you would still need to move the same amount of heat anyways, the power efficiency would be better

Yes of course, an AT using Ethanol would use about a half of the power. But if the Regulator is using 20 watts and the AT would use 9 watts does it really matter? Also the AT puts 1200 watt power spikes on the circuit which is a pretty big downside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It took me short while to figure out why this works so well.. food seems to coold down inside refrigerator very slowly.
Key info point is - food temperature still doesn't matter unless in vacuum.. only refrigerators. Once it cools down all food is automatically frozen regardlesss of it's temperature.

It's strange tbh... why not use food temperature all the time?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is my approach, freeze the food and store it in a vacuum.  I have the hydrogen loop set to -50C, conveyor sensor set to 'below -20C', it rotates the food until frozen and then it's put into storage.  I used aluminum for the tiles and steel for the radiant pipes.  Thermo regulator is cooled via radiant pipes from my main coolant loop, but the heat generated is tiny you could probably just leave it out in the open for most bases.  If my calculations are correct, for barbecue it gives off just 0.166 kDTU/s of heat per dupe, so 30 dupes would give off 5 kDTU/s (by comparison the grill gives off 4.5 kDTU/s), and with the thermo regulator running flat out this setup could freeze enough food to support up to 200 dupes.

food_freezer.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Yobbo said:

Doesn't this indicate that there is something very, very wrong with refrigerators, that it's better to build an air conditioner next to it and then use that to refrigerate the fridge, than it is to power the refrigerator?

Yes fridges are practically useless unless you want them to get an automatoin signal for something. Other than that...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, SharraShimada said:

Yes fridges are practically useless unless you want them to get an automatoin signal for something. Other than that...

Some might say they always were. Still imo they have a place in the midgame before you get the cooling setup running. They might also be a good idea in spaceships unless you go full on berry sludge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, AncientGammoner said:

This is my approach, freeze the food and store it in a vacuum.  I have the hydrogen loop set to -50C, conveyor sensor set to 'below -20C', it rotates the food until frozen and then it's put into storage.  I used aluminum for the tiles and steel for the radiant pipes.  Thermo regulator is cooled via radiant pipes from my main coolant loop, but the heat generated is tiny you could probably just leave it out in the open for most bases.  If my calculations are correct, for barbecue it gives off just 0.166 kDTU/s of heat per dupe, so 30 dupes would give off 5 kDTU/s (by comparison the grill gives off 4.5 kDTU/s), and with the thermo regulator running flat out this setup could freeze enough food to support up to 200 dupes.

food_freezer.png

 

i like it :eagerness:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/7/2021 at 7:38 AM, blakemw said:

Not really. It's pretty common that player-made builds can be more efficient than the provided building. For example you could almost certainly make a desalinator build which uses less power and produces less heat than the actual Desalinator.

I think it is not so much that this setup is better than the refrigerator, but that the refrigerator is so bad it isn't even worth considering.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't be the only one who wonders what the overlap between the Venn diagram circles of those who think refrigerators (and incubators) require too much power and those who think the game needs more power sinks is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, goboking said:

I can't be the only one who wonders what the overlap between the Venn diagram circles of those who think refrigerators (and incubators) require too much power and those who think the game needs more power sinks is.

Does the stage at which refrigerators might be useful even overlap with the stage at which the player needs more things to spend their megawatts on?

I honestly don't know because i have never powered a refrigerator.

By the time i want things to spend my power on i already have better food storage solutions in place...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The design I posted above requires just 1.2 W per dupe (for freezing 1000cal/cycle) to run, costs nothing to maintain the food once in storage, and can store infinite amounts.  The default fridge is pretty weaksauce by comparison, but maybe pushing people to create their own solutions is the intent with these new updates?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/7/2021 at 11:58 PM, blakemw said:

Yes of course, an AT using Ethanol would use about a half of the power. But if the Regulator is using 20 watts and the AT would use 9 watts does it really matter? Also the AT puts 1200 watt power spikes on the circuit which is a pretty big downside.

You could use a small battery and a small transformer so the peak is capped at 1kW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, he77789 said:

You could use a small battery and a small transformer so the peak is capped at 1kW

You could, but this significantly increases the space taken and the heat output and still puts a much greater peak on the circuit than a Regulator.

A better way to help reduce overloads is to pulse the Aquatuner, any circuit overload that lasts not longer than 1 second doesn't burn a wire, so if the Aquatuner automation is ANDed with a Timer Sensor set to 1/X, or if the output is set through a Valve set to not more than 5000 g/s, then it'll be much less wire-burny, specifically to burn a wire it requires the co-operation of other machines also overloading the circuit, this kind of "throttling" also helps with avoiding temperature spikes and can even allow using air-cooled Aquatuners made from crappy ore.

I very often use this trick to avoid special wiring for Aquatuners, in combination with a "fusebox" exploit - that is circuit overloads prefer to target wire bridges over wires, so overloads can happen at a place of your choice and not happen where they are really annoying to fix. So I commonly have 2 k circuits with 10 k potential load, it's just all machinery that turns on erratically and briefly. Anything with a high sustained draw (Metal Refinery, Glass Forge, SPOM etc) gets its own dedicated circuit or is put on a Heavi-watt circuit.

But in any case, for cooling food it usually just makes more sense to use a Regulator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Please be aware that the content of this thread may be outdated and no longer applicable.

×
×
  • Create New...