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Mechanical variants of thermo regulator/aquatuner?


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I don't use any aquatuners or thermo regulators in my whole base. Since the radiant pipe + pipe thermo sensors came out I don't really see any use for them anymore.

I guess you could use them to cool really hot or cool stuff thats outside of the operating temperatures of the AETN or Wheezeworts.

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This is for bottling up cooling into a central coolant tank and piping it to anywhere you need in your base without wasting one single bit of cooling.

I built this mostly so that I could play with steam turbines in survival mode, and also so that I could switch from SPOM to open air electrolysis and save on power without putting wheezewort *in* the base (which is a terribly inefficient way to use wheezeworts). It'll be overpowered for most purposes. (edit: also, plastic doesn't make a good thermal contact anymore)

 

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2 hours ago, PhailRaptor said:

1) Wheezeworts (most effective in Hydrogen)

2) AETN

3) Machinery overheat temperature clamp exploit

1. Wheezeworts, assuming that you have some, seem like a great solution for smaller contained builds.
2. AETN is like a pack of Wheezeworts on steroids, it can dip temps to bellow the freezing points of many substances, which could be a problem liquid radiators builds

2 hours ago, MTzu said:

I don't use any aquatuners or thermo regulators in my whole base. Since the radiant pipe + pipe thermo sensors came out I don't really see any use for them anymore.

I guess you could use them to cool really hot or cool stuff thats outside of the operating temperatures of the AETN or Wheezeworts.

I have been playing with radiators as well. It seem really effective, particularly since you can setup self-propelling loop. However, I have been struggling some nuances, particularly when I am trying to cool a room to a specific temp. Any tips or setups to learn from?

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I got cold pwater from a slush geyser which I transferr heat to from my hot clean water tank via aquatuner. Since closed liquid loops with a single bridge inbetween don't need any pump and power to flow, I added one with radiant pipes between my tanks and am saving a lot on energy costs.

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The thermo regulator and thermo aquatuner are heat pumps.  They don't destroy heat, they move it elsewhere.  So any system that can move heat from point A to point B can be a cheap alternative. Take, for example, a closed-loop liquid pipe system with radiator pipes on the "cool" side, insulated pipes in the middle, and radiator pipes on "hot" side.  Heat will be moved to the cold side, cooling the hot side down.  Without using the thermo aquatuner or any power to pump anything.

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1 hour ago, KittenIsAGeek said:

The thermo regulator and thermo aquatuner are heat pumps.  They don't destroy heat, they move it elsewhere.  So any system that can move heat from point A to point B can be a cheap alternative. Take, for example, a closed-loop liquid pipe system with radiator pipes on the "cool" side, insulated pipes in the middle, and radiator pipes on "hot" side.  Heat will be moved to the cold side, cooling the hot side down.  Without using the thermo aquatuner or any power to pump anything.

A passive heat pipe can only bring two reservoirs into equilibrium. If you want to make a cold reservoir colder by making a hot reservoir hotter, that requires work input, i.e. an aquatuner.

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1 hour ago, QuantumPion said:

A passive heat pipe can only bring two reservoirs into equilibrium. If you want to make a cold reservoir colder by making a hot reservoir hotter, that requires work input, i.e. an aquatuner.

I suppose it depends on what temperatures you're shooting for.  Yes, its true, that both pools will eventually reach equilibrium, if nothing else is done.  However, lets suppose you have a slush geyser near a copper volcano.  The excess from the slush geyser floods into a very very large pool.  A much smaller pool of water is under the copper volcano.  Some pipes with petroleum circulate continually between the very large cold pool and the one under the volcano, with a temperature switch to stop the circulation during dormancy (so the pool of clean water doesn't freeze).  I _could_ pump the slush geyser water at -10c straight to the volcano, but I'd rather use the -10 stuff for other purposes and use the big 'waste' pool as a very large heat sink.  There's a constant inflow of -10c from the slush geyser, and pumps take water out for a variety of things such as oxygen generation and farming where temperature isn't a big concern.

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For gases such as breathable oxygen,  I use the thermo regulator and dump the heat into a room with high pressure hydrogen and wheezworts.  

For liquids I have a number of "cooling tanks" filled with radiant gas pipes and thermo plates that connect to a "cold room" filled with high pressure hydrogen and wheezworts.  A single gas pump moves the very cold hydrogen through the radiant pipes to cool the liquid down.  You can't get the liquid down to extreme temperatures but you can reliably get it down to 3C or 4C fairly quickly,  which is enough for a sleet wheat farm.  Automation shuts off the gas pump so that the liquid stays at the right temperature and prevent wasted power.

If you want to get tricky you can use the same hydrogen cold room to power multiple liquid coolers as long as you position your wheezworts correctly and use enough of them.  It's more efficient than trying to use a separate cold room for each cooling tank.

 

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On 9/13/2018 at 1:42 PM, Cipupec2 said:

1. Wheezeworts, assuming that you have some, seem like a great solution for smaller contained builds.
2. AETN is like a pack of Wheezeworts on steroids, it can dip temps to bellow the freezing points of many substances, which could be a problem liquid radiators builds

I have been playing with radiators as well. It seem really effective, particularly since you can setup self-propelling loop. However, I have been struggling some nuances, particularly when I am trying to cool a room to a specific temp. Any tips or setups to learn from?

Use a liquid shutoff to bypass the cooling end of your loop and an automation wire on a thermometer. When the room is cold enough, coolant bypasses and stops cooling. Just make sure your bypass bridge is properly prioritised so it doesn't block the whole loop.

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