Vaccinated Tepidizers - a reload resistant way to run tepidizers without temperature caps (EDIT: actually not really)

[he77789]

Ever wanted free power with tepidizers? Hate the 85c official limit and 125c 64kDTU/s soft limit after reloading? Here's the solution! I present: Tepidizers that have gone under special treatment to make exploits working on them reload-resistant, or vaccinated tepidizers for short. By "vaccinating" (carrying out a few specific steps) the tepidizer and putting it in a specific configuration, you can make the tepidizer output up to 1200c or so (with a thermium tepidizer and disabling auto repair until it breaks).

Spoiler

A successful vaccination persists across reloads, but you may need to try a few times to make it successfully get vaccinated.

Ignore what's in the spoiler. It's proven to be not true after more tests, sorry.
Here is a sample usage:(ignore the setup beside the battery banks, it's for another test)

 

I discovered the vaccination method (that makes the exploit reload-resistant) when playing with tepidizers. However, the tepidizer exploit itself is actually discovered by @mathmanican and @Fradow. I suspect it's related to pulsing

Steps to build your very own free heat source are shown below. You need 2 kinds of liquids, referred as liquid A and liquid B. liquid A must float on top of liquid B, and both must stay liquid at the temperature range you want the output to be. I recommend petrol and crude oil for low temperature applications, and

1. Build the configuration as shown. The materials don't matter (as long as they won't melt) , but a steel or thermium tepidizer is recommended. The area is vacuumed out. The thermo sensor is directly connected to the tepidizer and is adjusted to "below <your target temperature>". You should include an airlock for access, but it's not shown here for brevity.

2. Pour a little bit of liquid B to the position as shown, removing any that flows down to the left.

3. Fill the right side with liquid A as shown. Make sure the tiles that directly touch the tepidizer have less than 400kg of liquid.

4. Fill the left pocket with at least 400kg of any liquid that is <85c. I used 1000kg of 30c water here.

5. The building is complete (the tepidizer exploit shrunk to a very small size), now the vaccination can begin. Start by attaching a power switch to the wire and supplying power to the tepidizer.

6. Turn the power switch off, save, then load the save you just did.

7. Done! You can now safely resupply power to the tepidizer and remove the power switch.

Spoiler

The tepidizer will keep the plate hot, no mattter how many times you save and load.

Again, ignore what's inside the spoiler, as that's proven to be untrue after further tests.

Thoughts? comments?

[mathmanican]

3 hours ago, he77789 said:

discovered by

I just passed on information I found in bug reports by @FIXBUGFIXBUGFIX.

[nakomaru]

Very nice work. I'm having trouble getting it to stick. When you save, do you have to do it immediately after you turn the switch off? Does it have to be below overheat temperature at the time? Should you deconstruct the switch before turning it back on?

[mathmanican]

8 minutes ago, nakomaru said:

I'm having trouble getting it to stick.

Same. Once you hit 125C, the "Excess Power Produced" of 4000 kDTUs no longer contributes its portion. 

@he77789, can you provide a save file?  

I've tried various ways.  No luck. My guess is that you may not be aware of the two types of energy produced. 

The "Normal operation" of 64 kDTU has always worked past save/load.  As such, you can see temps continue to increase up to melting point. The "Excess produced" of 4000 kDTU is what stops at 125C after a save/load.  

Please share a save file. If you see the 4000 kDTU working after a load, then we hopefully will as well when we open it. Thanks for the share. 

[he77789]

From further testing, I found out that the vaccination only works when the power cut is due to a generator running out of fuel, so the power switch may be the culprit. My theory is that when the tepidizer is subjected to an "unexpected" power cut, it will relax the checks when the power goes back up, in order to improve performance when there's a brownout.
 

I do have a save file where at least one tepidizer is successfully vaccinated, but I'm not at my PC at the moment, so I'll edit in the file when I get back to my PC.

[he77789]

Uh, @mathmanican and @nakomaru, I think I wrote this too fast before I have done conclusive tests, so the protection won't actually last if you save with a running tepidizer. Sorry. I've edited the post.

However, if you cut the power before you save, it does, in fact, bypass the stricter check after you reconnect the power. Even though it still needs manual attention, flicking a power switch is still way easier to build a dupe accessible tepidizer and micromanage the rebuild process after a reload.

I suspect that the stricter check only gets applied to working tepidizers on load, and cutting the power in the save causes it ti be non functional on loas and thus evade the check.

[MinhPham]

How about use the cycle sensor to cut off the power before the autosave starts ...

[he77789]

Autosaves are only half of the problem (autosaves do not reload the game), the biggest problem is manual saves

[MinhPham]

The same goes for drown electrolyzers .... had to pause the game and check liquid layers before manual save. I don't mind to turn off the power for tepidizer before manual save ...

[Saturnus]

2 minutes ago, MinhPham said:

The same goes for drown electrolyzers .... had to pause the game and check liquid layers before manual save. 

Uhm... ?

[mathmanican]

13 hours ago, MinhPham said:

The same goes for drown electrolyzers .... had to pause the game and check liquid layers before manual save. I don't mind to turn off the power for tepidizer before manual save

Where did you build the tile on top of the drown electrolyzer? I'm guessing you built it over the right side (as this is the most commonly perpetuated build).  On Save/Load, that build can break.  

@nakomaru has two great gifs on this page.  The first comment (link takes you there) has the WRONG build.  Scroll down till the next comment from @nakomaru for the updated CORRECT build. 

 

[ZombieDupe]

Yet another reason to just let them go above 85C by default and just set the output kDtu amount to the power you use to power them (960kDtus as they take 960w) instead of generating heat out of nothing when there is no reason to, which has created and solved different kinds of problems for awful reasons. I have seen a setup that just uses a switch to bypass the 85C limit. If I understand this correctly, it turns on and off, so with a timer switch you could set it to keep turning on and off every second without stop.

 

[gabberworld]

3 hours ago, ZombieDupe said:

Yet another reason to just let them go above 85C by default and just set the output kDtu amount to the power you use to power them (960kDtus as they take 960w) instead of generating heat out of nothing when there is no reason to, which has created and solved different kinds of problems for awful reasons. I have seen a setup that just uses a switch to bypass the 85C limit. If I understand this correctly, it turns on and off, so with a timer switch you could set it to keep turning on and off every second without stop.

 

omg