Jump to content

Is there an effective way to cool water using Aquatuners in loop?


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, ProfMembrane said:

Ok. I searched it, and there are a million threads talking about AETN's but none that say what that stands for, what is AETN?

It stands for Anti-Entropy Thermo Nullifier.  It's a "Ruins" machine that can be found in the Ice Biome.  Each map should have 3 of them.  Send it 10 g/s of Hydrogen and it will delete heat in the gas around it (only functions in gas).  The mathmagicians have concluded that, under ideal conditions, an AETN works at the same rate as 7 point something Wheezeworts.

12 hours ago, jfc said:

I'd like to know if this is possible right now, cool liquid with the Aquatuners, and use it as well to cool the Aquatuners so you can keep using it endlessly for cooling your base and the tuners rather thaan feeding to a siever for electrolyzer

I use aquatuners for cooling systems, such as a cool steam vent, or the fluid in my condenser, or any other places where i need cooling to be honest. 

But no there is no way to infinitely loop it to gain net cooling, you can use it with wheezeworts or an AETN to mitigate the effects, and with some good builds you could possibly do a lot more, but most people either let the heat sync evaporate or use a sieve.

So far it seems the only worth option is to use Tuner to cool liquids you need to cool and use polluted water from slush geyser and boil it when it gets too hot for clean water. Also slush geysers are a heaven, I wouldn't even bother playing past 1thousand cycles without one

3 hours ago, QuantumPion said:

How about using a morb farm to produce pO2 to cool an aquatuner and then vent into space? You would probably need quite a lot though hehe.

You would need an absolutely staggering number of Morbs to make that work, due to the rate of heat dissipation from the Aquatuner.  Gases, as a group, have both lower heat capacity and lower per-tile density than liquids.  Attempting to use gas to cool an Aquatuner will just overheat the Aquatuner.

5 hours ago, PhailRaptor said:

You would need an absolutely staggering number of Morbs to make that work, due to the rate of heat dissipation from the Aquatuner.  Gases, as a group, have both lower heat capacity and lower per-tile density than liquids.  Attempting to use gas to cool an Aquatuner will just overheat the Aquatuner.

Well let's see: To cool 1 kg/s of water by 14 °C requires:

4.184 J/g/°C * 14 °C * 1 kg/s = 58 kW.

Specific heat of pO2 is 1.01 J/g/°C. Let's say the pO2 is generated at 30 °C and is heated to 90 °C for 60 °C delta T.

58 kW / (1.01 J/g/°C * 60 °C) = 1 kg/s of pO2.

Morb produces 25 g/s of pO2. To produce 0.8 kg/s, you need 40 morb. That is not extreme. I am eager to test it out.

4 hours ago, QuantumPion said:

Well let's see: To cool 1 kg/s of water by 14 °C requires:

4.184 J/g/°C * 14 °C * 1 kg/s = 58 kW.

Specific heat of pO2 is 1.01 J/g/°C. Let's say the pO2 is generated at 30 °C and is heated to 90 °C for 60 °C delta T.

58 kW / (1.01 J/g/°C * 60 °C) = 1 kg/s of pO2.

Morb produces 25 g/s of pO2. To produce 0.8 kg/s, you need 40 morb. That is not extreme. I am eager to test it out.

Well yes but that's assuming you're only using 10% of your aquatuner. The thermal conductivity may also be a problem, if your pO2 can't heat up reliably from 30° to 90° at a 1kg/s rate your aquatuner will overheat.

6 hours ago, Djoums said:

Well yes but that's assuming you're only using 10% of your aquatuner. The thermal conductivity may also be a problem, if your pO2 can't heat up reliably from 30° to 90° at a 1kg/s rate your aquatuner will overheat.

Thermal conductivity is not a problem with tempshift plates and radiative pipes. And 14 kg*C°/s is a substantial amount of cooling, enough to cool a typical cool steam geyser’s output.

I freaking hate aquatuners.  They use way too much power.

 

 I just create insulated tanks for liquids and run very cold hydrogen through radiant gas pipes until the tank gets down to the temp I want and then open a door to dump it all into a new tank below once it gets to the right temp.  Rinse and repeat.  Takes longer and more space but requires very little power and you can get the temp of the liquid down to EXACTLY the temp you want just by waiting long enough.

 

On 9/10/2018 at 10:35 PM, ProfMembrane said:

To clarify, I know it lowers the temp of water 14 degrees when it goes through, but, for example, geyser water is way more than 14 degrees too hot.  Is there a way to use automation to pass it through the aquatuner a few times before it goes on?

This one actually doesn't need any automation at all. You want to pass the water through more times so that you get a higher cooling factor than 14C? Try out this old build that's been around since before automation update. (I expanded it a bit to make explaining easier)

image.thumb.png.988e3738034cf4eb403421e64867fc87.png

For this build you have to understand how inputs and outputs to pipes are prioritized. Suppose we set the flow valve to 5000g/s, 5000g/s will be sent to the outlet pipe and 5000g/s will loop from the aquatuner's output back to the input. The bridge will have last priority, only supplying enough to make each packet a full packet.

In this case the aquatuner cools by 10kg/5kg * 14C or 28C (because I set flow rate to 5000g)

If I set the flow valve to 3000g/s it would cool by 10kg/3kg * 14c or 47c.

Be careful though if your input source gets interrupted OR if your power is intermittent the pipes will probably freeze after the water travels that loop a handful of times. I suspect that's why you haven't seen this build much lately, there are a few annoyances with it that usually wind up with the whole thing breaking at -1C.

 

 

For a slightly more robust build, you can throw a pipe contents temperature sensor on there and open a valve based on the temp.  Then set the temp sensor to 14 or 15c above freezing and when a packet of liquid is cold enough that one more cycle would freeze it (and break pipes) then the valve turns on and the packet leaves.  

Spoiler

image.thumb.png.37e7539aaa643e8b4fd9c348263355bf.png

Alternatively, you could set it up so that as long as it is warm enough, the valve stays on. This has the advantage of the water flowing out in the event of a power loss.

Spoiler

image.thumb.png.0f4266235138368b1ab25e1930fc3c8b.png

 

On 9/11/2018 at 1:47 AM, Neotuck said:

wheeze warts or AETN but it's not as fast as an aquatuner 

Pshhh I guess you don't have a dedicated Weeze rocket yet!

My biggest problem is my rocket setup now surrounded by Weezes in Hydrogen makes solid carbon dioxide from the rocket launch exaust, and I can't sweep it away.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Please be aware that the content of this thread may be outdated and no longer applicable.

×
  • Create New...