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Secvential Aquatuner setup


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Today i was thinking to cool my water from 40 to 12 degrees so i needed 2 aquatuner. the problem was that i want to use only one circuit so if i want to protect my 2kw wire, they needed to work by turn. So proudly I present my secvential aquatuner setup. 

The cooling is provided by the AETN, and the cooling liquid is petroleum. It can be also be crude oil.

The automation is simple. I adapt the logic circuit for the sweep arm shut off for the first aquatuner, wired whit a not circuit for the second.

To prevent damage for overheating i put a circuit breaker whit a termosensor.

The times for bufer and filters is 5 second each. If the distance between the 2 aquatuners is bigger, you must increase it until the intermediary pipe is full.

This can be adapted to cool liquids from any temperature  just by adding more aquatuners and modify a little the logic circuit. The disadvantage is that the output of cooled liquid will be much smaller.

I use this setup for cooling my polluted water made by my 2 algae distiller, cleaned by a water sliver  to grow my bristle blossom.

Have fun.

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Another option to solve the same problem in a slightly different fashion, is to use a feedback loop:

Kv0ejNU.png

The valve going into the loop sets the throughput of the loop. If you set it to 5000g, you'll get (10000g/5000g)*-14 = -28 degrees colder water than you put in, but with only 5kg/s throughput. If you set it to 3333g, you'll get -42 degrees colder water, but only a throughput of 3.33kg/s. I use one of these to cool geyser water all the way down to 3 degrees for my sleet farm, but that means a throughput of only about 1700g/s, but I don't need more than that.

In comparison to your design however, this has 2 requirements:

  1. Input cannot dry up. There's an element sensor in the above picture that goes directly to the aquatuner, but it takes some seconds for the feedback loop to stabilize, so if this happens often, you'll get too hot water.
  2. Output cannot be full. I've tried forever to solve this with automation, but ultimately the best solution is just to create a buffer of some sort, either an overpressurized water tank or just a bunch of piping (if you want to save power). Once this gets full, then turn off the aquatuner. This also has the benefit that it'll "absorb" the few hotter packages coming from the loopback while it is stabilizing.
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42 minutes ago, tzionut said:

my water from 40 to 12 degrees so i needed 2 aquatuner.

No, youd don't. You only need one in fact. Use the automation valves to spin in circles until the water is cold.

aqua.thumb.png.447e5a7ffaa6e053118c9393d01256a8.png

The sensor let the second valve open until the water is at 12°C or any temperature you put.

aqua1.thumb.png.0f0b0c5409c3b7afbd317a7053d5826d.png

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16 minutes ago, SamLogan said:

No, youd don't. You only need one in fact. Use the automation valves to spin in circles until the water is cold.

This has the same issue as mine, right? If your input pipe isn't full all the time, you'll get too cold water and possibly break the pipes, since if I set the sensor to 10 degrees and give it 40 degrees water, the water will freeze. Your throughput suffers the same as my loop, but you don't have the same issue with the output pipe filling up, because of the not gate, so both your shutoffs are never active at the same time.

Cool! It's given me another idea to improve mine.

Why exactly is it that you have the radiant pipes on the output of your loop though? Don't they ruin the temperature that you've set on the sensor, so the water in the pipes averages out to the temperature in the polluted water?

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1 minute ago, Capsup said:

Why exactly is it that you have the radiant pipes on the output of your loop though? Don't they ruin the temperature that you've set on the sensor, so the water in the pipes averages out to the temperature in the polluted water?

It was a try to cool the Pwater as the wheezeworth are not enough.

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3 minutes ago, SamLogan said:

It was a try to cool the Pwater as the wheezeworth are not enough.

Ah, alright, that makes more sense, but still seems weird. I was wondering how you'd pull off enough cooling with just those wheezewort. As far as the math goes, that AETN in OP's picture isn't enough either, but I guess he'll figure that out if the aquatuners run enough.

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33 minutes ago, Capsup said:

As far as the math goes, that AETN in OP's picture isn't enough either, but I guess he'll figure that out if the aquatuners run enough.

It should be enough in the current version of the game since the overheat clamping "fix" allows them to delete infinite amounts of heat:

 

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5 minutes ago, Sevio said:

It should be enough in the current version of the game since the overheat clamping "fix" allows them to delete infinite amounts of heat:

 

You're right, I read about that and had forgotten. I guess AETN are slightly overpowered right now, but on the other hand, that's probably preferred until Klei gives us tools to solve it in "proper" ways. Thanks for the reminder!

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4 hours ago, Capsup said:
  1. Output cannot be full. I've tried forever to solve this with automation, but ultimately the best solution is just to create a buffer of some sort, either an overpressurized water tank or just a bunch of piping (if you want to save power). Once this gets full, then turn off the aquatuner. This also has the benefit that it'll "absorb" the few hotter packages coming from the loopback while it is stabilizing.

Here you go. If pipe is blocked after the top bridge then it goes into the by-pass with an element sensor to detect the blockage. The lines merge so that both the main line and the by-pass is cleared once the pipe is clear again. You can minimize it a bit by tucking the element sensor under the top bridge. Just remember it's best if the lines merge after the bridges and the bypass isn't bridged into the main line as it could take forever to clear depending on through put.

image.thumb.png.2aad7b783fffb821ef4e0583ffb85bcf.png 

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5 hours ago, SamLogan said:

It was a try to cool the Pwater as the wheezeworth are not enough.

Wait, so you use the aquatuner to move heat out of the fresh water into the polluted water, and then... run the fresh water through a radiant pipe so it takes the heat back out of the polluted water?  That seems like a waste.

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Is there at all a way to cool aqua tuner without using slush geyser + dump polluted water on aqua tuner + refine this warm water to 40 C clean water? I prefer not to depend on slush geyser since I haven't found ANY during my 20+ colonies.

I've tried cooling tuner with AETN/wheezwords but it wasn't enough. Appreciate any help.

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3 hours ago, Saturnus said:

Here you go. If pipe is blocked after the top bridge then it goes into the by-pass with an element sensor to detect the blockage. The lines merge so that both the main line and the by-pass is cleared once the pipe is clear again. You can minimize it a bit by tucking the element sensor under the top bridge. Just remember it's best if the lines merge after the bridges and the bypass isn't bridged into the main line as it could take forever to clear depending on through put.

image.thumb.png.2aad7b783fffb821ef4e0583ffb85bcf.png 

Heh, I've tried exactly this before but found that the problem isn't detecting when there's a blockage (that's the easy part), it's stopping the loopback dead in it's track and being able to restart it instantly, without having the loop have to stabilize again. That's extremely hard apparently, because we use a bridge which will always "continue" even if the aquatuner is stopped, while the loopback relies on the fact that there is always water moving through.

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4 hours ago, Capsup said:

Heh, I've tried exactly this before but found that the problem isn't detecting when there's a blockage (that's the easy part), it's stopping the loopback dead in it's track and being able to restart it instantly, without having the loop have to stabilize again. That's extremely hard apparently, because we use a bridge which will always "continue" even if the aquatuner is stopped, while the loopback relies on the fact that there is always water moving through.

Maybe you're using it wrong. Works for me.

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Quote

I spent FAR too long trying to figure out what 'secvential' meant.  Then I thought about how it sounds and realized that its supposed to be "Sequential."  *sigh* Its a long day today.

English is not my natural language, and I'm still learning it.  

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On ‎8‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 4:28 AM, SamLogan said:

No, youd don't. You only need one in fact. Use the automation valves to spin in circles until the water is cold.

aqua.thumb.png.447e5a7ffaa6e053118c9393d01256a8.png

The sensor let the second valve open until the water is at 12°C or any temperature you put.

aqua1.thumb.png.0f0b0c5409c3b7afbd317a7053d5826d.png

Do you have the automation image for that?  Thanks!  would love to see that.

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