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Opinion, only utility is going to another world.  If you're not going...then pointless

And if I pick up the remaining mandrakes and fireflies. hammer my base and go to another world, I now have extra non-renewables. You assume you make one world, and never leave.

Some people even would like a temporary break from the hounds and worms in number.

Heck, even with renewables I could nomadically roam the land, collecting materials, and gather the four things and leave before the major season starts, all with a temporary science machine I could easily hammer. The only thing I have to worry about is an umbrella in Spring environmentally, or just make a pretty parasol every two days. 

 

Please think before assuming your play style is EVERYBODY'S play style. 

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41.  Drying racks are generally time wasters.  Cook and refrigerate your meat.

 

42.  ASAP Build your base near spiders and pigs (or move them near your base.).  Forget rabbits and beefalo.

 

-Spiders provide unlimited monster meat and healing.  Silk is an incredibly useful component.  With enough silk you can simply lean-to your way through summer, mostly avoiding it.  With 3-4 traps set, spiders can be harvested very quickly, leaving unlimited meat for your PIGS!

 

-Pigs help you chop wood, kill treeguards, kill hounds, make manure, and restore sanity, also they provide MEAT, piggy back and football helmet & umbrella. They can wear a miner hat and a football helmet.  Befriend one with 1 monster meat, then lead him away, then put on your football helmet and log suit, then feed him 3 more monster meat and start hitting him when he's still changing.  They always drop 2 meat and 1 pig skin.  You can also lead werepigs into tooth traps easily.

 

 

 

 

 

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41.  Drying racks are generally time wasters.  Cook and refrigerate your meat.

 

42.  ASAP Build your base near spiders and pigs (or move them near your base.).  Forget rabbits and beefalo.

 

-Spiders provide unlimited monster meat and healing.  Silk is an incredibly useful component.  With enough silk you can simply lean-to your way through summer, mostly avoiding it.  With 3-4 traps set, spiders can be harvested very quickly, leaving unlimited meat for your PIGS!

 

-Pigs help you chop wood, kill treeguards, kill hounds, make manure, and restore sanity, also they provide MEAT, piggy back and football helmet & umbrella. They can wear a miner hat and a football helmet.  Befriend one with 1 monster meat, then lead him away, then put on your football helmet and log suit, then feed him 3 more monster meat and start hitting him when he's still changing.  They always drop 2 meat and 1 pig skin.  You can also lead werepigs into tooth traps easily.

While 42 is a good point (except once for that Beefalo Winter Hat perhaps,)

 

I have to strongly disagree with #41.

 

 

I'd rather dry my meat first while I look for gears (dagnabit, sometimes those gears are STILL not easily spawning even with their increased clockwork biomes and tumbleweeds.)

 

Anyway, cooked meat lasts for 10 days, and Jerky lasts double that or 20 days, before refrigeration. It's easy to make 4-6 drying racks with basic pickables and charcoal and come back in 2+ days while searching for things like gears and/or mining more gold or getting rarer materials.

 

Cooked meat does NOT restore the  FIFTEEN sanity while Jerky does, and it restores TWENTY health compared to THREE of cooked meat.

 

The ONLY time cooked meat is better, is when you are making a Meat Effigy. And honestly at that point, you'd be able to gather raw meat/store  in your cold box easily if you made a Presdihatitator.   

 

Even birds in birdcages will eat raw meat for eggs unlike monster meat which must be cooked (if for some insane reason you'd use it for eggs over monster meat or small meaty drops instead.) 

 

 

Oh, and if there is any question to payers, jerky meat works identically the same as raw/cooked meat in crock pot recipes. 

 

Finally, if you have rotting meat about to spoil completely, cooking it only restores a fraction of the total durability while drying it gives it a COMPLETE durability as Jerky which lasts longer than the meat did in the first place! Even if the jerky were about to spoil, and you had no time to eat or cook it all, you could feed it to a bird (as a last resort of course) to make eggs. 

 

 

So, in conclusion, for 2 days wait (which does not affect any durability while drying until done) the player gets a good source of health and sanity recovery/doubles their duration, cooks exactly the same in crock pots, completely restores stale/rotting meat and can make rotting jerky (perish the thought) into eggs if they have too much to save in time.  

 

By my first winter/Summer, I have 12-20 pieces of Jerky/Monster Jerky/Small Jerky each, assuming I didn't start converting/converted it to the Honey Hams/Bacon and Eggs for the wintertime (First season Honey gathering being a key how much gets to be Honey Ham as well as the B&E is for traveling with a 20 day duration vs 15 of HH.)

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While 42 is a good point (except once for that Beefalo Winter Hat perhaps,)

 

I have to strongly disagree with #41.

 

 

I'd rather dry my meat first while I look for gears (dagnabit, sometimes those gears are STILL not easily spawning even with their increased clockwork biomes and tumbleweeds.)

 

Anyway, cooked meat lasts for 10 days, and Jerky lasts double that or 20 days, before refrigeration. It's easy to make 4-6 drying racks with basic pickables and charcoal and come back in 2+ days while searching for things like gears and/or mining more gold or getting rarer materials.

 

Cooked meat does NOT restore the  FIFTEEN sanity while Jerky does, and it restores TWENTY health compared to THREE of cooked meat.

 

So, in conclusion, the player  to start gets a good source of health and sanity recovery/doubles their duration, cooks exactly thew same in crock pots, completely restores stale/rotting meat and can make rotting jerky (perish the thought) into eggs if they have too much to save in time.  

 

The jerky produced as result of a drying rack may in fact be superior to cooked meat.  I don't argue that point.  My point is that it's a waste of time.   While you're drying your jerky I can kill like 10 spdiers, feed the resulting monster meat to pigs who restore my sanity in WHILE chopping down like 20 trees, and them kill them for twice as much meat as your Jerky could provide!  

 

Seriously it takes more time and effort than you realize to maintain an efficient drying operation.   I used to do that, but now I just use cooked meat and eggs.  And I have lots of extra time.

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The jerky produced as result of a drying rack may in fact be superior to cooked meat.  I don't argue that point.  My point is that it's a waste of time.   While you're drying your jerky I can kill like 10 spdiers, feed the resulting monster meat to pigs who restore my sanity in WHILE chopping down like 20 trees, and them kill them for twice as much meat as your Jerky could provide!

When you're off that first season and your cooked meat spoiled (if not went to rot) after you get back 5 days later while looking for some [rarer than common item] search, you lose all that meat you can now only feed to said pigs for a temporary friend boost. Or you get a pig follower for about half a day by feeding them meat rather than have something that feeds and heals AND restores sanity when you are alone and looking for stuff your first season.

 

 

Your endgame may hold a good point, but this will BADLY fail for beginning players trying to keep food going that first season. A new player will take SEVERAL winters and summers before they get to this point;. 

 

And finally, if you camp too close to pigs-werepig difficulty aside-they run the risk of having them (and possibly their dwellings) incinerate in Summer unless you spend time using fertilizer extinguishing their homes and pickables or have them in the range of a constant Fling-O-Matic. With pig homes, this means hammering for half-resources and having to rebuild.The same also can go for Spider dens. Which means having yourself turtle in base or explore somewhere away from them where you don't mind the potential smouldering (which should be done to set up a DragonFly zone anyway) 

 

 

And this didn't even touch upon the players who are new who just have a spear and wooden armor doing combat at best not well, let alone if they learn kiting or "hit until destroyed armor or too low health" methods.

 

The spider healing salve only does 20 health per and costs rocks and permanent pickables for ash (unless the player uses common sense and harvests tree plantables instead which many will not figure out until they are not new,) while the said dried jerky heals the same, plus feeds you AND helps your sanity.

 

The player using this while they first establish themselves will have a food they can keep WHILE looking for gears and other gold (besides that one rock or mixed biome) or rare items like mandrakes or digging up grave items for Red/Blue gems and wondering how they are going to manage sanity (when flowers are only 5 per and they are running out of flowers, and it hasn't rained so green mushrooms are out?) Again, Jerky for those new players. 

 

 

And while you are a veteran, it's likely you forgot how difficult it is to get the components for a Bee Box or Birdcage for new players. (Do you really want me to go into how many new players die going unarmored into a beehive attack or swamp trying to collect materials and die also when trying to pick up dropped monster items in swamps?) 

 

For the subsequent 1-2 years after the first, then the player will be swimming in materials, and they can do what they want with the racks. But until they get to the "endgame" feeling, they will get basic fundamentals to take them to your advanced suggestions.

 

And that means keeping food viable until they learn the proper pig alliance feeding and base distancing and crockpot production not to waste food (especially until they can build an icebox) and when to hit spiders from nests as not to be swarmed, and so forth. 

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And if I pick up the remaining mandrakes and fireflies. hammer my base and go to another world, I now have extra non-renewables. You assume you make one world, and never leave.

Some people even would like a temporary break from the hounds and worms in number.

Heck, even with renewables I could nomadically roam the land, collecting materials, and gather the four things and leave before the major season starts, all with a temporary science machine I could easily hammer. The only thing I have to worry about is an umbrella in Spring environmentally, or just make a pretty parasol every two days. 

 

Please think before assuming your play style is EVERYBODY'S play style. 

 

hence why I said "only utility is going to another world"  Was that not clear?  Some people made a clear decision to not move on to more worlds.  I built 9 houndious on my 3rd world with Wigfrid...I've already built the portatoe but I'm not going anywhere : P

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Some random tips for beginners/ newish players:

 

43. Jerky is my go-to food source early-mid game. Build near a bunch of rabbits, make a trail of traps and rotate them daily, I build 6-10 drying racks. Health, hunger, and Sanity booster!

 

44. Lightning Rod your base immediately. Lightning Rods glow for several days when hit, saving you from Charlie, their protective range is approximately 1.5 - 2x screen widths in every direction. Lightning Doesn't strike in winter.

 

45. Build a fire pit slightly away from your base, so that if you hear hounds/bosses coming near dusk, you can keep them away from your base.

 

46. ALWAYS keep a torch in your inventory, lest you get caught out/ carried away at dusk and find night approaching too fast.

 

47. Plant in plots, keep separated from each other to prevent fires from wiping your crops out. Especially non-renewable berries/grasses/sapling plants (the berries respawn, the bushes do not)

 

48. walls are overrated. I actually have stopped using them altogether.

48a. Wooden and Hay walls are very bad. 1 Fire hound (you start getting them about day 45-55 I think), lighting strike, or summer fire can wipe out the whole lot, and everything they are "protecting"

--If you are determined to have walls

48b. Stone walls use are the most efficient and Sturdy

48c. If a wall is damaged, it's more efficient to hammer it and build a new segment than to repair it.

48d. Walls are really only for aesthetic purposes, or keeping friendly herds in check (think Beefalo or Koalaphants)

 

49. Bunnymen are a better protector than pigs, and are better for farming spider dens, even if you have to go into caves to get them;

- they respawn faster upon death.

- they don't eat meat/turn into were-anythings

- they are active at dusk/ night (when it's harder to defend yourself)

- for this reason they are better for spiders, also dusk/night creatures.

- will attack you if you have meat, so keep them away from main base (keep near your second firepit?)

 

50. If you want to farm spider dens or honey near your base, remember your 2x screens distance. If they are too far away from the player they go into idle mode and production slows down, a LOT.

 

Pro Tip: If you want to know just how far that distance is, download and enable a mod called Grounded Camera, and zoom in - it will let you see exactly how far the render distance is. this is true for lightning rods, smouldering (summer fires in RoG), Fires burning in forests, and idle states in spawners/mobs such as spider dens and bee hives.

 

51. The Garland is a great early game item.

 

52. find a gold, build a science machine asap, prototype a shovel, hammer, sign, and a backpack. then hammer the machine down to recover the gold. The backpack is great for foraging/scouting. The sign is good for plonking down on items that you want to return to later, such as beefalo herds and Things (the sign shows up in the minimaps)

 

53. Not all mods are cheating. Some actually fix bugs in the game. (That was my plug for my mod Auto ReTrap)

 

54. A great way to take on Bosses, is to have a forest handy (natural or preplanted) and fight (lure) them there... they will kill enough trees to spawn Guardians who will then do the work for you. (not such a great idea with the fire breathing DragonFly though).

 

55. Your First Winter

  • If you have trouble beating your first couple of winters, try this:
  •  find a spot near lots of rabbits. build fire pit, science machine, build at least 10 drying racks. build lots of traps, clear them daily / 2x daily. This gives plenty of food.
  • plant lots of trees nearby, about 40. Only cut mature trees down. this gives you plenty of wood for your fire pit, a log suit or two (for hounds) and extra cones for replanting.
  • Remember the Lightning Rod.
  • Sit winter out in front of the fire.
  •  A couple of luxuries to make winter easier include earmuffs (2x rabbits + sticks), (or a wooly hat from beefalo wool, requires a razor) when out gathering wood, or a top hat (6 silk) when in front of the fire to restore sanity (but your jerky should take care of that.)
  • warm clothing can be removed when close to a fire to lengthen it's lifespan (durability)
  • beefalo wool burns as well as wood does.
  • You bet bonus points if you built near a Beefalo herd and can lure any hounds that attack you into the Beefalo!
  • Remember that you could keep this base as a go-to in winter, and have another base (or bases) in other areas for exploration/ gathering at other times of the year / later.
  • * this is a basic version for beginners wanting to get through their first winter.

56. Don't enter the Marshes at Dusk / night, and Keep Running!

 

57.

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???????

hounds don't do manure and watermelon don't do trees(even irl)...why are you talking of caves?

what are these pylons?

 

  

Pylons. The towers surrounding the Pig King. You new?

Wrong game bro. XD

 

Also...

 

38. Harvest large clusters of berry bushes at dusk. Gobblers will just hide in the bushes rather than eating all your berries.

Why you try ruin advice? Gobblers will only help you if your pylon-count is high enough. To accrue Pylons, present offerings to the Pig King. A bounty and a Pylon from around the map will be returned if the offering is worthy - Pylons are only rewarded to the best offerings. With each Pylon, you may recruit another follower (Pigmen, for instance) indefinitely.

Think of it like a population cap. Noobs.

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61: Slurpers don't go own your head, they go on pigman heads! This will kill the pig over time.

 

62: Slurpers don't hurt walls, so putting them in pens works well. They will attack and try to latch unto your head through the wall however.

 

63: Klei hasn't made a way to regenerate Slurpers, don't kill them all.

 

64: You can make a bunch of tiny pens side by side, push tumbleweeds in, and make a piano!


:ghost:61: Slurpers don't go ow :ghost:n your h :ghost:ead, they go o :ghost:n pigman heads! This w :ghost:ill kill the pig over time.

 

62: Slurp :ghost:ers don't hurt walls, so puttin :ghost:g them in pens  :ghost:works well. They will at :ghost:tack and try to latch unto your head through :ghost:the wall however. :ghost:

 

63: :ghost:Klei hasn't made a way to regenerate Slurpers, don't :ghost:kill them all. :ghost:

 

64: You can m :ghost:ake a bunch of :ghost:tiny pens s :ghost:ide by side, push tumble :ghost:weeds in, and make a piano! :ghost:

 

Edit: OH NO! My post was attacked by ghosts!

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Pylons. The towers surrounding the Pig King. You new?

Why you try ruin advice? Gobblers will only help you if your pylon-count is high enough. To accrue Pylons, present offerings to the Pig King. A bounty and a Pylon from around the map will be returned if the offering is worthy - Pylons are only rewarded to the best offerings. With each Pylon, you may recruit another follower (Pigmen, for instance) indefinitely.

Think of it like a population cap. Noobs.

Video or it never happened. 

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