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Liquid Thermo Sensors (Uselesss)


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What is the point of having a thermo sensor on a pipe. if the pipe is gonna recieve 1 block of hot water every second time water passes it, what is the point?

There is no way to get an aquatuner to get water down to below 14*C without it pushing hot water with it every second block

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In my opinion it would make it 100x easier if they just forced the liquid filter to decide either temp, (and) or liquid type.

My current problem is that you have to basically trick the game into forcing the hot water out of the system, it makes little to no sense. Plus it is much harder for new ppl to setup a system with it, unless asking someone, or watching a video.22907383C0DCE4B864518C07C49A19B417804B6F

making 1 celsius water with aquatuner is difficult because if the liquid goes below 0 celsius it changes phase and breaks pipe. Solution is you need to do water in 2 steps (first 15 celsius water than the output goes into aquatuner to make precise 1 celsius) or you need to produce 1 celsius liquid of other materia for example oil, and use that to cool water down.

If you do the 2 steps with water and aquatuners first you need to measure the output of liquid reservoir not the input of aquatuner. Whenever its higher than 15 celsius take that water and send it back through the aquatuner. This will keep lowering the reservoir temp to 14.9 or so and you can safely tune that down to 1 celsius in second step.

3 minutes ago, Xuhybrid said:

Liquid filter? I thought you said aquatuner. I'm really not getting the problem.Have the sensor right before the aquatuner entrance, simple.

sensor before tuner is not always safe, because on game reload etc. sometimes packets slip past the shutoff. This might produce a tuned liquid of negative celsius which breaks the pipe. Safer to check the liquid going out of a reservoir because it will be very precise and if you keep 5t of liquid in there even if you add a packet 98 celsius water into it the temp will average out and will become an almost innoticable change.

26 minutes ago, Xuhybrid said:

Liquid filter? I thought you said aquatuner. I'm really not getting the problem.Have the sensor right before the aquatuner entrance, simple.

You didn't read it properly.

 

I want to point out this system worked before this last update, because of the pipes not feeding past the first input. but they fixed that bug, and made this impossible.

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It has power lines running to it.

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The sensor is positioned just beside the entrance of the aquatuner.

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It is enabled by automation.

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(If it is above 13.5*C) It comes in at 39.9*C, which is above 13.5*C no?

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It clearly has power.

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It receives excess water from toilets.

22907383C0DCE4B864518C07C49A19B417804B6F

24 minutes ago, MorsDux said:

making 1 celsius water with aquatuner is difficult because if the liquid goes below 0 celsius it changes phase and breaks pipe. Solution is you need to do water in 2 steps (first 15 celsius water than the output goes into aquatuner to make precise 1 celsius) or you need to produce 1 celsius liquid of other materia for example oil, and use that to cool water down.

If you do the 2 steps with water and aquatuners first you need to measure the output of liquid reservoir not the input of aquatuner. Whenever its higher than 15 celsius take that water and send it back through the aquatuner. This will keep lowering the reservoir temp to 14.9 or so and you can safely tune that down to 1 celsius in second step.

sensor before tuner is not always safe, because on game reload etc. sometimes packets slip past the shutoff. This might produce a tuned liquid of negative celsius which breaks the pipe. Safer to check the liquid going out of a reservoir because it will be very precise and if you keep 5t of liquid in there even if you add a packet 98 celsius water into it the temp will average out and will become an almost innoticable change.

I shouldn't have to. What is the point of the sensor then. Also, im looking for water below 13.5*C not absolute perfect 0.

Duplican510.sav

Water cooling loops can be a bit complicated, the main problem with your current setup is that you have nothing in the pipes that forces the water back through the loop, the sensor just says 'does the contents of the pipe I'm sitting on meet my set criteria?' If yes, active, if no, inactive. So what you've done here simply says 'don't run the aquatuner while water of a certain temperature is traveling in this pipe'

The most basic first step is to insert a liquid shutoff and attach the temperature sensor to the shutoff instead of the tuner, like this:

GnZOMLm.png

 

 

If you want to get really fancy, I just found this build and was able to implement it myself today, and it works well. His instructions were a little frustrating to follow, and I made several mistakes setting up my copy, but I did eventually get there:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Oxygennotincluded/comments/ar8uga/compacted_selfpowered_water_cooler/

Hope this helps! This was one of the aspects of the game that frustrated me the most when I started :)

 

I do it in just the opposite manner.  I put the sensor just AFTER the 'tuner and BEFORE the liquid shutoff valve.

The valve then either lets the liquid out (if it's the right temp) or leads back into the loop to the 'tuner (if it's not).

Admittedly, I've never tried to get things cooled to a 1 degree sensitivity with it, but I've never had a failure even on reloads before either.

 

Crap, I'm an idiot, was thinking so hard about the shutoff valve that I wasn't paying any attention to the inputs. Lemme try that again:SimpleLoop.thumb.PNG.f19900d2012ee855ef1247fc6cfe87cf.PNG

I dropped the bridge in because I'm pretty sure you need it to keep backflow from happening, but I didn't test it. Water comes in from the bottom and exits to the right

 

1 minute ago, Hikahi said:

Crap, I'm an idiot, was thinking so hard about the shutoff valve that I wasn't paying any attention to the inputs. Lemme try that again:SimpleLoop.thumb.PNG.f19900d2012ee855ef1247fc6cfe87cf.PNG

I dropped the bridge in because I'm pretty sure you need it to keep backflow from happening, but I didn't test it. Water comes in from the bottom and exits to the right

 

basically you just took what the last guy said, and made it into a screenshot <3

12 minutes ago, Soulwind said:

I do it in just the opposite manner.  I put the sensor just AFTER the 'tuner and BEFORE the liquid shutoff valve.

The valve then either lets the liquid out (if it's the right temp) or leads back into the loop to the 'tuner (if it's not).

Admittedly, I've never tried to get things cooled to a 1 degree sensitivity with it, but I've never had a failure even on reloads before either.

 

this is what I've been doing (an successfully still) for a long time.   I don't care about anything other than its chilled as far as possible but not frozen.  its counter intuitive sometimes in how it behaves, but works.

Instead of putting water directly to aquatuner im using other coolants to get desired temperature in a tank. Thermo sensors works great. Cooling down my base with one aquatuner and another 2 works on liquid hydrogen and oxygen. Just fill all segments of the pipe with coolant (polluted water, super coolant ect. depends on your needs).

Your problem is the same as with most of sensors. They don't register vacuum. 

Can't remember who to credit this setup to, but it always works. As above, it won't give exact temp, but you can get close to what you need. The input bridge at the top is to add liquid when needed. The second output valve isn't needed if you don't have a bridge downstream.

5c6ef3c673f15_aquatunerrecycle2.thumb.jpg.a3dd62d8d20cbf4735782380b83df01b.jpg5c6ef3d8f21ca_aquatunerrecycle4.jpg.34d0343e2ca2895bed9bc890709cdb23.jpg

50 minutes ago, hacksaw12 said:

Can't remember who to credit this setup to, but it always works. As above, it won't give exact temp, but you can get close to what you need. The input bridge at the top is to add liquid when needed. The second output valve isn't needed if you don't have a bridge downstream.

5c6ef3c673f15_aquatunerrecycle2.thumb.jpg.a3dd62d8d20cbf4735782380b83df01b.jpg5c6ef3d8f21ca_aquatunerrecycle4.jpg.34d0343e2ca2895bed9bc890709cdb23.jpg

there are a couple of ways to allow exact temperature control on aquatuner, as long as less than 10 kg.s outlet flow is maintained.  just proper bridge setup.  I have preferred to use aqua tuner as separate loop to a radiator instead since it is more flexible in heat exchange and less impact of packet to packet variation

On 2/21/2019 at 9:09 AM, MorsDux said:

making 1 celsius water with aquatuner is difficult because if the liquid goes below 0 celsius it changes phase and breaks pipe. Solution is you need to do water in 2 steps (first 15 celsius water than the output goes into aquatuner to make precise 1 celsius) or you need to produce 1 celsius liquid of other materia for example oil, and use that to cool water down.

If you do the 2 steps with water and aquatuners first you need to measure the output of liquid reservoir not the input of aquatuner. Whenever its higher than 15 celsius take that water and send it back through the aquatuner. This will keep lowering the reservoir temp to 14.9 or so and you can safely tune that down to 1 celsius in second step.

sensor before tuner is not always safe, because on game reload etc. sometimes packets slip past the shutoff. This might produce a tuned liquid of negative celsius which breaks the pipe. Safer to check the liquid going out of a reservoir because it will be very precise and if you keep 5t of liquid in there even if you add a packet 98 celsius water into it the temp will average out and will become an almost innoticable change.

What shut off? I've had a sensor, aquatuner and steam turbine going for 1000 cycles without any state changes. See this is the problem. If you just have it overflow, the aquatuner can never be enabled by accident. If your output pipe jams, then you have a problem, no matter what system you use.

If you're early game it's safer to lower the temperature of something else. Let's say polluted water or petroleum/oil and use that to radiate the heat to water.

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