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Is there an effective way to cool water using Aquatuners in loop?


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I'd like to know if this is possible right now, cool liquid with the Aquatuners, and use it as well to cool the Aquatuners so you can keep using it endlessly for cooling your base and the tuners rather thaan feeding to a siever for electrolyzer

7 minutes ago, Neotuck said:

the temperature is equally displaced by the aquatuner so if you make a loop to cool itself then it can't cool anything else

then what's the point of using an aquatuner? just for feeding sleet wheat?

Heat up a polluted water tank to almost boiling and then send it through a filter till they make them not reset to 40c. Since filtration material is free now letting it boil to clean water isn’t as efficient. 

if you use a single tuner after your sieve the water is safe to use through most normal bases for purposes other than sleet wheat. I personally grow sleet wheat in planter boxes so that I don't have to cool the water.

1 minute ago, Kabrute said:

if you use a single tuner after your sieve the water is safe to use through most normal bases for purposes other than sleet wheat. I personally grow sleet wheat in planter boxes so that I don't have to cool the water.

then again it's still using the siever to delete heat

1 hour ago, jfc said:

then again it's still using the siever to delete heat

You can set up an aquatuner system to cool without using the sieve, it just takes a bit more effort.  Aquatuners and thermo regulators are heat pumps -- just like real-world AC and refridgerator systems.  Just like the real world, that heat has to go somewhere.  Here are some options that work:

  1. Let the aquatuner boil the water.  If you have a stronger heat source, heat the steam a bit more and send it through a steam turbine.
  2. Use an AETN and/or wheezewarts to keep the aquatuner's pool from overheating.
  3. Pipe the hot coolant (water, polluted water, petroleum, whatever you're using to cool the aquatuner) into an ice biome.  That will melt the ice and, depending on the biome, give you 500 or so cycles to figure something else out.
  4. If you have an excess amount of a fluid (polluted water, etc), pipe it out into space.  The heat will be lost as the liquid vanishes into the empty vacuum of space.

In my current world, I pump cold polluted water from my slush geyser into a pool with my aquatuners.  Then a thermo sensor triggers a pump when the water is close to boiling and pumps it into a reservoir.  From there its fed into a boiler room that turns it into clean water.  The steam is cooled with some radiant pipes filled with crude oil that is going to be boiled into petroleum.

In a closed loop in a sealed box of just itself in any single material atmosphere tested during cosmic a single aquatuner cooling itself does delete about 0.1C heat per cycle without any outside interference. 

as for "Siever deleting heat" thats a personal choice, don't feed it +40c pwater, run all the heat into oil resevoirs and only send sub40c pwater to the sieve and it will never delete heat.  Use in pipe sensors and valves for thermal filtering.

as for your "loop" idea, again, in pipe thermal sensor hooked to bypass valve.

There is a way. It's an exploit, as the descriptions above describe how the game is intended to work. You just have to use the overheat exploit. Build a gold battery (regular battery) next to the aquatuner (separate with obsidian wall or something). Then on save/load the battery temp will constantly reset to 75C.  There are tons of posts on the forums that refer to this. Basically, the aquatuner transfers the heat out of the incoming water into the surrounding liquid (I'd use polluted, crude, or petro, as the temp will probably go over 100C in the liquid bath). The battery then sucks up any amuont of heat you feed it, resulting in 75C surroundings.  Pop a temp shift plate around to speed things up, and you have a magic heat deletor.

The most effective "legitimate" way to delete heat in the game(legitimate in the sense that it doesn't break thermodynamics, is probably future-proof and doesn't have a gaggle of people here debating whether or not it counts as not an exploit) is to use 95 C condensed steam to pump up 80 C oil from an oil well, then use that oil as coolant for a gold amalgam aquatuner running near overheat temperature.Once the coolant oil exceeds 168 C, vent it to space and replace it with fresh oil from the well.

It's not cheap: according to my math, using this method you can cool 1.6 kg water from 95C to 25C for every 1 Kg water you spend pumping oil. But it still could be viable for people who have an surplus of hot water and a cooling deficit.

3 hours ago, KittenIsAGeek said:
  1. If you have an excess amount of a fluid (polluted water, etc), pipe it out into space.  The heat will be lost as the liquid vanishes into the empty vacuum of space.

This is the most physics-realistic approach to cooling an asteroid in space. In fact, it happens in the real universe.

Need to cool down 8 aquatuners, running nonstop on the highest SHC liquid in the game?  Look no further.  A single gold regular battery will suffice (I wanted to push the limits and see how much cooling potential this bug has - I wonder if I could get 24 running and kept cool.  Probably could - will do if someone wants to see it. ). Here it is.

5b9743acc56fa_Screenshotfrom2018-09-1022-21-29.thumb.png.750e8d7a93a166ab5e2dc7d0631ef739.png

Note: This currently has about 10kg of hydrogen around the battery, as 2kg of oxygen wasn't quite enough to transfer the 75C cooling around fast enough to prevent overheating. I'm using granite tempshift plates, obsidian tiles, and gold on any electrical stuff. This thing will run nonstop, provided you can keep the 9kW+ electrical needs met. 

Note to those who like to avoid exploits:  If you use a gold battery in any build that gets near/above 75C, then you're using this exploit. It doesn't have to be a battery.  Any building that outputs heat to its surroundings and generally overheats at 75C - tons of them. If you build a SPOM on top of a cool steam vent, then this exploit/bug is definitely at play. Just pop some obsidian tiles over the top of the steam vent, and then put the SPOM on top of that.

Would be interesting to compare the potential heat loss from this bug to the possible heat loss from drip cooling.  Of course, drip cooling could cool a 100+ tall column of 300C oil in no time at all. Time for more testing.

To clarify, I know it lowers the temp of water 14 degrees when it goes through, but, for example, geyser water is way more than 14 degrees too hot.  Is there a way to use automation to pass it through the aquatuner a few times before it goes on?

Just now, Kabrute said:

image.thumb.png.9fa27c2943342cea4450c758969c2fad.png

Thanks! Sorry, I've never really gotten around to using automation before, so this is all very new to me, I appreciate the help.  Besides this, is there any way to cool down water more than 14 degrees? Just run it through multiple tuners I guess?

2 minutes ago, Neotuck said:

wheeze warts or AETN but it's not as fast as an aquatuner 

Ok. I searched it, and there are a million threads talking about AETN's but none that say what that stands for, what is AETN?

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