How to cool water (or other stuff) with Energy as only input (the-drip-down-effect)

[Saturnus]

24 minutes ago, Ketmol said:

In theory. it should be possible to first use a hydrogen bubbler to first get liquid oxygen, then cool the oxygen using the above discussed principle with an aqua tuner even further.. then use the liquid oxygen to cool the hydrogen I guess...

That exactly what I posted above.

[manu_x32]

On 1/5/2018 at 7:03 AM, Saturnus said:

Try building this instead. It has much higher efficiency.

The important parts as illustrated are: 1) the outer top half tiles must be abyssalite but doesn't need to be insulated, and 2) there must be metal tiles in the middle, either regular metal tiles or a sideways mechanical airlock.

Liquid can be anything but remember to set the temperature sensor to the freezing point of the liquid +20C at the start and then carefully bring it down lower if needed otherwise you risk freezing the liquid really fast because this cools down the liquid at about 2C per second.

This seems better than a similar version I'm using right now, but do you have a save file, I can't make it work properly.  Seems to need very precise quantities of liquid or something, and seems very easy to destabilize.

EDIT: ok never mind @Saturnus, I had tempshift backplates in the background from a previous build, and they were screwing things up.  And I was also under the impression that we didn't want the upper side spaces to get filled with liquid when pumping, and I was not able to achieve that.

This beast is indeed extremely effective, almost scary!    thanks a lot, I will save tons of power on cooling for all the crazy tepidizer heater devices (crude oil to NG, pH2O to H2O, crude oil to petroleum, LOX...)

 

[donutman07]

The Borg cube really does trivialize cooling needs. I think next base I make I'll have to avoid it. It's just too good and shouldn't exist

[manu_x32]

20 hours ago, donutman07 said:

The Borg cube really does trivialize cooling needs. I think next base I make I'll have to avoid it. It's just too good and shouldn't exist

Lol, it has a name! 

Works pretty well for a basic aqua tuner LOX too. And using tepidizer to quickly heat back to O2.

[Kabrute]

I think I've figured it out, the liquid vent is 400k of material being dropped in temp by 10k and thats where we are getting out free cold exploit.  Its conducting from metal vent to metal rail which is why I was able to cool sideways with it.  Alright now we can really make some magic happen.  Slap a rail on Top of that vent and watch it freeze above as below XD

[feralfoo]

Evening peeps. I tried a bunch to get this Borg Cube contraption going but always ended up gaining temp, but stumbled onto something else while trying. I'm not sure why this works, and I built another one directly above to make sure. Maybe someone can chime in...

The base of the container is backed by diamond temp shift plates. You need to prime the container, starting with a vacuum, then adding 1000kg 25C water across one row only. Pipes are insulated and hardware is gold amalgam.

The inlet pump is set to turn on when water pressure is below 10kg, note the placement of the inlet and aqua sensor.

The outlet pump is set to pump below 28C.

Once running, this thing will run flat out until the geyser is empty. With 80C+ in and around 27C out. Lovely.

 

 

 

[Kabrute]

pop a thermal overlay, those temp shift plates are sinking your geyser heat to the abysalite, 800k of diamond per square plus 400k abysallite per square, thats a lot of thermal bulk...... Shiftplates link things thermally that normally wouldn't be, like your water and your insulated tiles

[feralfoo]

20 hours ago, Kabrute said:

pop a thermal overlay, those temp shift plates are sinking your geyser heat to the abysalite, 800k of diamond per square plus 400k abysallite per square, thats a lot of thermal bulk...... Shiftplates link things thermally that normally wouldn't be, like your water and your insulated tiles

wow didn't realize the heat would be shifted to the insulated tiles, neat. Going to mess with this a little, use less thermal plates, more common materials (not diamond).

[8loop8]

@Saturnus I've tried to make the cooling cube in my game but I run into a problem: if the metal tile in the middle is 3 wide, the polluted water always emmits polluted oxygen and bubble of around 500mg stays over the tile where the vent is, decreasing the efficiency drastically. How do you suggest I work around this?

[Saturnus]

5 hours ago, 8loop8 said:

@Saturnus I've tried to make the cooling cube in my game but I run into a problem: if the metal tile in the middle is 3 wide, the polluted water always emmits polluted oxygen and bubble of around 500mg stays over the tile where the vent is, decreasing the efficiency drastically. How do you suggest I work around this?

Make it it 2 wide as the original  It's actually intentional as I found the same issue with polluted water. The 2 wide works with any liquid that has 20K delta between freezing and evaporation points. 3 wide is the same except it doesn't work with polluted water.

[Oozinator]

17 hours ago, 8loop8 said:

..I've tried to make the cooling cube ..

Borg Cube!
 

[FlyingLotus]

Hi everybody!

First of: I don’t know how much of this information is already known but I couldn’t find anything in recent threads so, let’s get to it!

I’ve been reading this thread and although I prefer to not use exploits in the game I got curious. After trying different variation of the borg cube supercooler on different liquid-storage area’s in my base I thought I understood how the dripping heat deletion bug worked. So I decided to test my suspicions in debug mode.

Like so often in life my suspicions were wrong, and the truth was a bit stranger.

Testing setup:

 

The top right little tank is filled with water at 2 °C. The large tank contains water at 95 °C with a vacuum on top. The tiles are tungsten. My first attempt had a much lower tank, but I noticed something and decided to use this comically large tank.

First I let only 1 vent run at full capacity (10kg/s). The result after 1 cycle below.

 

The two columns of water next to the tile the water was dripping on decreased in temperature rapidly, in turn cooling the surrounding water. The cooling effect slowed down slightly the further down the column you get.

Next I tried the same thing with 1 vent but only 500g/s of water and the result was the same. So volume does not affect the situation.

After this I ran all 8 vents at only 100g/s. The result after only half a cycle below.

The entire tank dropped from 95 to about 7 degrees using only about 240kg of cooled water and one pump running intermittently. Talk about efficiency

I noticed during testing that the cooling only occurred when the tiles next to the metal tiles had liquid in them.

No cooling:

If the tiles at the bottom of the metal tile where touching liquid but the tiles on the sides where in vacuum or contained gas and/or mesh tiles no cooling occurred. This leads me to believe that the cooling has nothing to do with liquid dripping on the tile (which I thought), but in fact only happens when liquid drips off a tile and the tile next to it also contains liquid. The test below solidifies this idea.

Two vents dripping over larger platforms. Direct cooling only happens at the tiles adjacent to the platforms and the columns of liquid below these tiles.

So, for maximum cooling efficiency use a setup like this with vertical tanks, multiple vents, a single block under each vent (material doesn’t matter) and have the tank filled up until the liquid touches the sides of the blocks under the vents. Let cold liquid flow in through the vents and throttle the flow of this liquid to a bare minimum (I haven’t tried lower then 100g/s, so I don’t know how low you can go).   

Enjoy!

[FIXBUGFIXBUGFIX]

2 hours ago, FlyingLotus said:

This leads me to believe that the cooling has nothing to do with liquid dripping on the tile (which I thought),

Heat deletion only happens when the following four requirements are met.

1. vertical interactions between two cells (high 2*width 1) 

2. elements(gas or liquid) are the same

3. top cell is colder.

4. top cell doesn't have more mass than bottom.

For liquid, if requirement 4 is not met, which means top cell has a bigger mass than bottom, the liquid begin to flow and the requirement will be met soon. So the requirements 1 to 3 are the key.

 

 

This topics might be helpful. 

Heat deletion will be more powerful when the top cells has a lower mass.

In your case, because of tiles, the cells above the both sides of tiles have a very low mass, which lead to a more powerful heat deletion.

[FlyingLotus]

11 hours ago, R9MX4 said:

Heat deletion only happens when the following four requirements are met.

Thanks for the extra explanation! I figured I wasn't the first one to look into this.

With this knowledge I decided to try and make something that can be implemented into an actual base to cool geyser water. And keep it as simple as possible. Behold:

To use this:

1. Build it

2. Get about 6000kg of water at the temperature you want (i used 1.9 degree water in the test).

3. Put the water in the large tank.

4. Let the pump run and open the valve completely.

5. Make sure some gas gets stuck at the right-bottom vent to prevent this tile from filling with water.

6. Once the right area is filled with water and water starts dripping over the edge you can lower the valve output to 500g/s (100g/s seemed not to cool perfectly in this situation).

7. Pump hot water in through the right-bottom vent.

I let it run for several cycles with a constant 95 degrees 10kg/s water input and the water flowing into the actual tank stayed 1.9 degrees. So after you set this up you can use all geyser water at whatever temp u desire with zero maintenance. Pretty cool, untill it get's patched atleast.

[Lifegrow]

This is a very long thread highlighting the same old bug (or a variation of perhaps) that's existed for some 7-8 months now, the only difference is that the last update made temperature changes, i.e. "the colourful columns" very obviously observed, and we now have access to materials with higher thermal conductivity.

It's the surface water bug - same old drip cooling glitch we've been using since pre-AU... Drip water temp A over a partially submerged tile of liquid B and watch as maths ceases to exist   It's what we once referred to as witchcraft, or claimed was created by the magical water spirals of frothiness...

Alas, it's a bug - it'll one day be patched, so it's ultimately not worth wasting your time with. I'd be more concerned with why you'd need so much water - are two geysers not enough for you?  

Heres a video from May 2017 showing the same thing happening - albeit in a slightly different fashion - i.e. gas perms are applying some cooling to the water before the "stepped sides" leading to the geyser allow for surface cooling. Pay attention to the mass of the uppermost tiles of your hot body of liquid - it's important.

 

[Joshingtron]

@Saturnus  hey there!  I've put a lot of hours into this game but I'm still not great at the big concept stuff so I apologize if this has an easy answer.  I get this setup and it does cool (water in my case) well.  I'm not sure how to get the water out to use it for anything though...  This is a closed loop system with pipe from the pump to the aqua tuner to the liquid output, right?  Do I need a water shutoff or valve? Do I need to leave water in there for a while?  Am I completely misunderstanding what this machine is for?    

[KittenIsAGeek]

His scenario was a proof of concept.  You could tap off the line before the valve for water you want to use, but this could starve the cooling process so you'd want a second valve to limit flow.  Ideally you'd throw a second pump in there, and a hydro sensor to turn off the pump when you get down to a given threshold.

[Luminite2]

Dat necro.

You don't need to mess with extracting the coolant; use oil or polluted water as normal, just build the cube out of something thermally conductive and put it inside your water tank.