Jump to content

Any advice on cooling loop that prevents pipe damage to to freezing water?


Recommended Posts

Make a closed loop, fill it, extract one packet. It will now be an endless loop. Pipe thermal sensor and a shut off valve are used to only send water above X amount to the aqua tuner.

*edit: You will need a bridge in the closed loop to give it a direction. A reservoir would work too and you can over fill the loop.

 

Spoiler

5d44049294645_coolingloop1.thumb.png.616ce53743a3d963fe915112a85ca9b2.png5d440485303e7_Coolingloop.thumb.png.0e09c7761d159dbebca93b8b854234ee.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What are you wanting to do with it? Cool water for use or just generate heat?

If you are wanting to use the water at a specific temp then a pipe sensor, bridge, and shutoff valve takes care of it. I like to leave some wiggle room and tend to stay at 16C, just in case a packet slips through, but it's easy enough to go down to 1C or 2C. With a little more effort you can add a bridge to the input line and have it auto-fill plus loop on itself to get any temp down to where you want it. 

For just heat, there are many similar options including a closed loop. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can put a liquid pipe thermal sensor on the pipe one tile before the aquatuner input

run the automation wire to the aquatuner to disable it if below 14c  

 Then you need to continue the pipe past the input and use a bridge to tie it back in to the output pipe of the aquatuner without the bridge the flow will get confused and try to run directly from the output to the input of the aquatuner 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've actually been really struggling with my piping around aquatuner inputs. Right now, I've got this: 

Spoiler

PhorPFW.png

It works, although the aquatuner keeps turning on and off cause of the flow stopping and starting. The idea is that the polluted water goes through the bottom left bridge up (or through another bridge and to the pipe out if it can't) and gets temp-tested, if it's too warm, it will go into the aquatuner, but if it's not, or if it otherwise can't, it just takes the horizontal bridge to the pipe out. And it can loop on itself at the aquatuner inputs and outputs, although I suspect now that's where the design went wrong; it means that if you start with hotter polluted water, it'll make sure some pretty cold stuff comes out anyways, but it really doesn't matter over the long-term, as there's already the looping around the base.

I'm quite sure there's something I'm doing wrong and that there was a better design that, if the coolant was warm enough, would have the aquatuner run continuously, rather than this annoying start/stop behavior, but then again, what I'm cooling (petroleum generator and associated stuff, mostly) can't keep up with the heat deletion anyways, and ONI doesn't as far as I know penalize you for power on startup, so I'm probably not really losing anything.

The liquid pipe thermo sensor is set to 14C, but actually, it could be set lower, since I'm using polluted water. I just don't want the possibility of water adjacent to something getting frozen (and I'm considering cooling down a not-entirely-polluted water pool just below this that I use as coolant for my metal refinery).

EDIT: And yep, simpler redesign not bothering to try to get coolant perfect before output is much better:

Spoiler

aNNMDdw.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are multiple ways to handle it, but it really depends on what you are using the aquatuner for.

If you are cooling water to cool your oxygen, make a close loop and and use a liquid pipe thermo sensor to enable/disable the aquatuner depending on the temperature the water is.  You have to put the liquid pipe thermo sensor right next to the input of the aquatuner though.  If you don't, it will shut off for the wrong packet of water.  Because an aquatuner has to be on two solid tiles, the only place to put it is to the left of the input (or on the right if you rotate it) so just be aware of that when building.

If you are cooling water from an outside continuous source (geysers, machines, rockets, etc), then I'd use a close loop that is fed in with a liquid bridge and use a liquid shut off to take out water when it's at the right temperature and then just loop it through the aquatuner multiple times until it gets to the right temperature.

 

Images below of a small design.  Left one is the closed loop, right is the continuous one.  You don't have to make your pipes this tight, I just wanted to keep it all in one screen shot.

For the left design, the radiant pipe is what you would loop through your oxygen room or through your base to work as a closed system cooling loop.  You'd fill it with whatever liquid you want once and it should work forever.

For the right design, the pump represents your input source and the vent represents your output, these are not part of the design but just to make it clear what each part is doing.  The top liquid bridge is there to give this loop a direction to ensure that new water is brought in, sent through the aquatuner, then tested before cycling again.  If you are concerned that your input liquid might be too cool and could break pipes, then you'd want to put the shutoff and thermo sensor before the aquatuner.

Spoiler

5d453d7a13dfc_aquatunerbase.thumb.png.9c2b160df3b8c101883264af518eddfe.png

5d453d7e142de_aquatunerpipes.thumb.png.fd326fd6bd27f8fcea8720ad13ba4e81.png

5d453d7430fc4_aquatunerauto.thumb.png.1a1eb461b05679bb9051bf180ae0d0e9.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Please be aware that the content of this thread may be outdated and no longer applicable.

×
×
  • Create New...