Denisetwin Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 So I'm rebuilding my geyser water cooler due to busted metal tiles because the geyser water super compressed despite having an open tile at the end to spill over. Since I have to redo it, am thinking about possible improvements. What is better as coolant now, polluted water or crude oil? I have read much on the forums re heat conductivity and am so confused as it keeps changing so the old info is not necessarily correct now. I'm playing survival build Occupational upgrade. I had trouble with the polluted water in @Saturnus 's borg cube, despite fixing so I had vacuum corners, one corner would always pop into polluted oxygen within two cycles instead of staying vacuum and I noticed that the metal tiles were having difficulty cooling the incoming geyser water enough with the temp I can reach with the polluted water (now that I think about it, maybe the super compressing water had something to do with that....) Which is why now considering oil, but I rarely see newer builds with oil so I'm wondering why polluted water vs oil? Second, I had a one tile row at the bottom of the cube to run the geyser water past, to avoid this super compressing thing and perhaps assist in cooling, would it be better to change that to two tiles and use a hydro sensor to ensure the top tiles of water are always less than 500g? Would it cool faster since the water on top would have less mass against the cooling metal tiles? Would that help or hurt the lower full tiles of water cooling? and lastly I'm looking for a fairly energy efficient liquid oxygen build that works in occupational upgrade that can be build in survival not debug. I build a huge monstrosity of a true hydrogen bubbler with five thermo regulators from a thread that does not work well at all with the occupation upgrade, gas keeps going wrong direction, the hydrogen has disappeared and the whole thing is now mostly filled with gas oxygen, I had the bubbler room at a vacuum before I started so I know at some point it got cold enough to allow the polluted oxygen in, which turned to clean oxygen but not long enough to pump it out, and now there isn't enough hydrogen to keep it cold enough. I do not want the oxygen warmed as part of the LOX, as I wanted to do this as an experiment to see if I could re-freeze an ice biome with liquid oxygen (the ice biome was caught between two steam geysers and melted before I could get them under control.) I considered trying to see if I could use conveyors moving through ice or cold metal or something and then through a pool of water to freeze it, but I have never built those and don't really understand them. Why do I want to refreeze an ice biome? Part of the fun of ONI for me, is goals and experimentation. Plus having two steam geysers with ice biome in between would help keep my water nice and cold with a more minimal use of electricity to cool it and since I keep hearing power will be more of an issue in the ranching upgrade, I'm trying to find ways to use less..... Thanks for the willingness of the forum to assist newer players. One of the biggest problems I have as a newish player (I have 1,000 cycles in but play survival only) is reading older posts on the forums, trying them out, and realizing that something has changed and that build/idea doesn't work right anymore. Like what is the best pipes to use for radiators, that keeps changing, freeze temp of certain liquids, etc. Link to comment https://forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/88848-aquatuner-cooling-polluted-water-vs-crude-oil-and-need-lox-build-that-will-work-now/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luminite2 Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 For which is the better coolant: the tradeoff is that crude oil has a higher conductivity so it's easier to get it to take heat from whatever you actually want to cool, but polluted water has 3x the specific heat, which means that the aquatuner will be moving much more heat (meaning the theoretical cooling cap is 3x higher). If you don't need to cool a lot of water, oil (or petroleum, which has a slightly lower freeze point) is probably fine. If you're cooling a lot, then you may need to engineer a better heat exchanger and stick to polluted water. Link to comment https://forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/88848-aquatuner-cooling-polluted-water-vs-crude-oil-and-need-lox-build-that-will-work-now/#findComment-1016886 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulwind Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 I use polluted water for 2 reasons. It is much easier to come by. I can easily run it through a sieve and carbon skimmer to delete the built up heat. I don't know if oil works better or not, but I usually have a ph20 system running by cycle 60 and haven't even come close to the oil biome by then. Link to comment https://forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/88848-aquatuner-cooling-polluted-water-vs-crude-oil-and-need-lox-build-that-will-work-now/#findComment-1016889 Share on other sites More sharing options...
chemie Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Up to now, I just put them in the geyser water. There is enough new flow to prevent boiling. Not sue it will work with new geysers though as dormant period might cause overheat. Link to comment https://forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/88848-aquatuner-cooling-polluted-water-vs-crude-oil-and-need-lox-build-that-will-work-now/#findComment-1016891 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denisetwin Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 12 minutes ago, Soulwind said: I use polluted water for 2 reasons. It is much easier to come by. I can easily run it through a sieve and carbon skimmer to delete the built up heat. I don't know if oil works better or not, but I usually have a ph20 system running by cycle 60 and haven't even come close to the oil biome by then. The polluted water never goes anywhere, it stays in the cube, my build is here based on the borg cube: Link to comment https://forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/88848-aquatuner-cooling-polluted-water-vs-crude-oil-and-need-lox-build-that-will-work-now/#findComment-1016892 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulwind Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Ahh. Didn't see that. I don't use the cube. I run an open system with the polluted water coming from my power plant and algae distillers. Link to comment https://forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/88848-aquatuner-cooling-polluted-water-vs-crude-oil-and-need-lox-build-that-will-work-now/#findComment-1016894 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuirem Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Polluted Water is generally better, the higher Heat Capacity means that an Aquatuner will move more W from PWater than Oil (mostly it means you will waste less W to cool). The Thermal Conductivity will only matter if what you are trying to cool down has higher conductivity than the PWater. In your case it does since Water has higher conductivity than PWater. So what I recommend is to simply use Water, it is a good compromise between PWater (having more conductivity) and Crude Oil (having more heat capacity). Just be careful not to go below 0°C. Link to comment https://forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/88848-aquatuner-cooling-polluted-water-vs-crude-oil-and-need-lox-build-that-will-work-now/#findComment-1016899 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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