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Terrariums still a thing?


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6 hours ago, GoHereDoThis said:

How do you clear out the PO2 later on?  I would like to be able to remove the PO2 bottles that are no longer off-gassing but keep the ones that still are.  Is this possible?

They never stop offgassing. If you use something like what Neotuck posted, the smaller bottles will be combined with new bottles and result in a few larger bottles. 

But yeah, if you need to get rid of bottles of polluted water in other areas, Sweep Only bottle emptiers and manually flagging them to be swept is your only option. 

On 7/1/2020 at 9:42 PM, beowulf2010 said:

There are a few of us that run bases for 100's of cycles off of bottled polluted water offgassing. (From terrariums, forced mopping operations, or just dismantling full liquid reservoirs)

I'm one of them.

This is my fav early to late-mid game oxygen generator.  I put a row of airflow tiles with deoxidizers above them and a light above them all you have to check is occasionally that you have algae and sand.

I've installed a terrarium spot in my base but my sieved water could not keep up so I pumped in some water from the steam geyser not realizing it's like 60-70C, now I have a very hot spot in my base too!  Options for cooling?  Aquatuner?  There are a few cold biomes but the last time I did this, it basically destroyed the biome.

10 minutes ago, GoHereDoThis said:

I've installed a terrarium spot in my base but my sieved water could not keep up so I pumped in some water from the steam geyser not realizing it's like 60-70C, now I have a very hot spot in my base too!  Options for cooling?  Aquatuner?  There are a few cold biomes but the last time I did this, it basically destroyed the biome.

Tapping into steam geysers early is a common mistake many new players make, never use water from steam geysers unless you have s steam turbine/aquatuner setup for cooling.  

BTW yesterday I decided to start a new base just to show where I usually build my terrarium setups.  This was completed by cycle 50 and it barely uses any water or algae.  It is heavy on sand though so I'm currently working on exosuits so I can dig up to the surface for regolith

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Since we're on the Terrariums topic, Algae Terrariums are the last bastion of fixed output temperature, they will take 99 C water and convert it into 30 C polluted water. The oxygen is produced at a hot temperature, but oxygen is only a small fraction of their output, so most the heat is being deleted. So if you have an early game hot water source, it is great for feeding to Terrariums.

One warning: this works best with dupes feeding the Terrariums manually with bottles of water which allows them to accept water at any temperature, with a good insulation strategy there will be very little heat bleed from the scalding water. If you instead drip hot water onto the Terrariums it can overheat them and also enhances heat transfer out of the hot water inside the Terrarium resulting in more heat bleed. But Terrariums do have an Overheat temperature of 65 C (Dirt) or 75 C (Clay) so you can feed them fairly hot water, probably up to ~80 C for dirt and ~90 C for clay, and even drip-fed they will still delete a great deal of the heat from hot water, probably "air-conditioning" their environment to something like 40 C, much cooler than an electrolyzer would consuming water of the same temperature.

I should note this is *probably a bug*, as the tooltip for the Terrarium states the polluted water should be output at 30 C, or hotter if the input materials are hotter, as such the behavior contradicts the tooltip.

13 minutes ago, blakemw said:

Since we're on the Terrariums topic, Algae Terrariums are the last bastion of fixed output temperature, they will take 99 C water and convert it into 30 C polluted water. The oxygen is produced at a hot temperature, but oxygen is only a small fraction of their output, so most the heat is being deleted. So if you have an early game hot water source, it is great for feeding to Terrariums.

One warning: this works best with dupes feeding the Terrariums manually with bottles of water which allows them to accept water at any temperature, with a good insulation strategy there will be very little heat bleed from the scalding water. If you instead drip hot water onto the Terrariums it can overheat them and also enhances heat transfer out of the hot water inside the Terrarium resulting in more heat bleed. But Terrariums do have an Overheat temperature of 65 C (Dirt) or 75 C (Clay) so you can feed them fairly hot water, probably up to ~80 C for dirt and ~90 C for clay, and even drip-fed they will still delete a great deal of the heat from hot water, probably "air-conditioning" their environment to something like 40 C, much cooler than an electrolyzer would consuming water of the same temperature.

I should note this is *probably a bug*, as the tooltip for the Terrarium states the polluted water should be output at 30 C, or hotter if the input materials are hotter, as such the behavior contradicts the tooltip.

I just tested this

water was 55C (delivered by a dupe), algae was 44C and the clay used to build it was 44C

placed it in an insulated vacuum room

in a second the oxygen emitted was 50C averaging between the water and algae

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heat deletion bug debunked!

1 minute ago, Neotuck said:

I just tested this

water was 55C (delivered by a dupe), algae was 44C and the clay used to build it was 44C

placed it in an insulated vacuum room

in a second the oxygen emitted was 50C averaging between the water and algae

Yes, as I said, oxygen is produced hot/warm: it's the average of water and oxygen. But pwater is fixed output temperature of 30 C, and represents 96% of the heat capacity output of the Algae Terrarium.

5 minutes ago, blakemw said:

Yes, as I said, oxygen is produced hot/warm: it's the average of water and oxygen. But pwater is fixed output temperature of 30 C, and represents 96% of the heat capacity output of the Algae Terrarium.

ah now I see it, your right the Pwater is set at 30C

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