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Magma Steam Power Generation - NOT RECOMMENDED


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Since magma is an almost eternal and "free" source of heat I thought about doing a magma powered steam generator. This thread is for suggestions and design clues, since it seems very difficult to do it.

- Gases in the lower part of the map (near magma) are very hot (900+) and in high pressure. That's the biggest problem I've encountered so far. So I thought that when I would be in the point of reaching termite that would be solved. Nope. Even termite can't stand the 900+ gases, so it's difficult to remove the gases from the steam chamber.

This is still the biggest challenge, 20kg+ and 900+ gases, making it impossible to remove

- When trying to cool the steam turbine with radiant pipes the water boils and break the pipes. Not sure on how to fix this.

Fixed by using super-coolant

- The steam turbine will probably overheat because of the high temps everywhere

Fixed by using a thermo aquatunner into the steam chamber

Another impossible challenge: magma solidifies after sometime when you remove heat from it to power the steam turbine.

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Rather just build metal tiles or tempshift plates made from steel or something that can withstand the high temps and build them a few blocks into the magma. To get the gases out just put some diamond blocks above that door at the bottom + keep the door open so no heat is transferred and then flood the steam chamber with water and the steam will push the other gases out, then you can seal it.

Magma doesn't affect airflow tiles in a vacuum as you can see in the attached pics. I'm using copper airflow tiles.

If you can't make the room cooler to vent it with pumps, just build blocks and then dig them out to create a vacuumed room.

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36 minutes ago, DRAKCORE said:

Rather just build metal tiles or tempshift plates made from steel or something that can withstand the high temps and build them a few blocks into the magma. To get the gases out just put some diamond blocks above that door at the bottom + keep the door open so no heat is transferred and then flood the steam chamber with water and the steam will push the other gases out, then you can seal it.

Nice. What is your suggestion for the overheat turbine, the radiant pipes are breaking because the water becoming steam. I'm thinking in throwing some water over it

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4 minutes ago, gaucho_tche said:

Nice. What is your suggestion for the overheat turbine, the radiant pipes are breaking because the water become steam.

In your current design, do the following.

1. The green block, place diamond or steal metal blocks there to create a seal over that door. Also only have a thermo sensor connected to that door sitting above those diamond/steal metal blocks, lets say in that red block. You can set it to 190c+- before it closes.

2. Flood the chamber with water with the same pipe you feed the water from the steam turbine, once the steam pushes the other gases out, seal the chamber at the blue block. *Note you don't need those doors below the steam turbine anymore since the steam chamber will sit below 200c.

3. To cool your turbine, if the surrounding area is too hot, just seal it in ceramic insulated blocks. Now to cool it either you can use its own water but it is only effective to cool the turbine roughly at 1/4 capacity or around 250+-. Would rather recommend build a thermo aquatuner in your steam room and use that to cool your steam turbine. If you have supper coolant, use it and if not, use polluted water since its heat capacity is x3 better than crude so your cooling efficiency is far better.

You can use the pics from my above post as a guideline.

 

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1 hour ago, gaucho_tche said:

Very nice! Thanks for the reply and congratulations on the great design. My only concern is that the thermo aquatuner consumes 1200w, won't it kill the power production (800w) ?

Steam turbines need a source of cooling to function, or the turbine itself will overheat. The aquatuner provides that cooling but only needs to operate for a fraction of the time. You still make out with a lot of spare energy.

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Be sure to use ceramics on the base of the turbine to help mitigate heat transfer from the steam chamber to the turbine.

Do you want your dupes to die of heat stroke? You should also be making use of a vacuum, as that CO2 you have flooded the place with will conduct that 1500c heat all around the area.  Vacuum out the entire area and keep it that way.

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Using a pipe with 1kg or less of water stops pipes bursting (no state change occurs until it leaves the pipe). This doesn't negate the need to actually cool the water but it allows you to stop it breaking your pipes (less efficient though because you're using 1kg packets and cooling them by 14 degrees and since aquatuners don't care about mass it's 10x less efficient)

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15 hours ago, DRAKCORE said:

Rather just build metal tiles or tempshift plates made from steel or something that can withstand the high temps and build them a few blocks into the magma. To get the gases out just put some diamond blocks above that door at the bottom + keep the door open so no heat is transferred and then flood the steam chamber with water and the steam will push the other gases out, then you can seal it.

Magma doesn't affect airflow tiles in a vacuum as you can see in the attached pics. I'm using copper airflow tiles.

If you can't make the room cooler to vent it with pumps, just build blocks and then dig them out to create a vacuumed room.

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Looking at the design, does the magma flow thru the door to the side of the turbines? Then the it will cross the mash tiles and stops at the metal tile? Won't it solidifies there?

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This is a feature of ONI.

The magma falls into the mesh tiles, where it is in contact with the metal tiles beneath it.  When it cools & solidifies, it can't occupy the same space as the mesh tiles, so it is forced to precipitate in some direction, in this case, it drops to the lower right corner.  If you were particularly whiley, you could use a sweeper to pickup the igneous rock and process it further.

Do all liquids solidify and fall the the lower right corner?

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17 hours ago, DRAKCORE said:

 

 

1 hour ago, gaucho_tche said:

Rather just build metal tiles or tempshift plates made from steel or something that can withstand the high temps and build them a few blocks into the magma. T

I didn't quite follow this part. Care to explain?

Also in your design, the water/steam heating happens just because of those 2 metal tiles where magma gets in touch with?

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1 hour ago, gaucho_tche said:

 

I didn't quite follow this part. Care to explain?

Also in your design, the water/steam heating happens just because of those 2 metal tiles where magma gets in touch with?

Kind of just those two tiles but all the magma hardens and sits on top of the one metal tile in stacks of 25 tons, combined with the tempshift plates the heat is distributed more across the steam. But remember my design is for volcanoes not the vast magma sitting at the bottom biome.

@Craigjw I'm taking a guess and going with yes about the falling on the right side, don't think they would mix it up based on the liquid element.

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17 hours ago, DRAKCORE said:

Kind of just those two tiles but all the magma hardens and sits on top of the one metal tile in stacks of 25 tons, combined with the tempshift plates the heat is distributed more across the steam. But remember my design is for volcanoes not the vast magma sitting at the bottom biome.

@Craigjw I'm taking a guess and going with yes about the falling on the right side, don't think they would mix it up based on the liquid element.

Am i missing something here, the thermo aquatuner is saying that the pipe is blocked. I don't see a reason in the closed loop for it to be blocked. Also, i've used steel for the radiant pipes in the turbine, is it enough?

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9 minutes ago, gaucho_tche said:

Am i missing something here, the thermo aquatuner is saying that the pipe is blocked. I don't see a reason in the closed loop for it to be blocked. Also, i've used steel for the radiant pipes in the turbine, is it enough?

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You don't even need steel for the cooling part since the turbines won't go over 100c, gold would be good enough and it saves you wasting your steel on it. Try running the aquantuner for a bit, if it says the pipe is blocked, just empty the pipe 10kg at a time until to starts running smoothly.

More importantly add a liquid thermo sensor on the pipe just before it enters the aquantuner and tell it to run if the piped liquid is warmer than 30c. also put a liquid bridge as I do in my builds next to the aquantuner which will allow the liquid to continue flowing when the aquantuner is turned off, this will prevent your pipes from bursting.

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Use a bridge between the input and output like this.  It's a really easy system and never fails.

The output is always a full packet.  Temp sensor below 250 for steel AQ, or below 110 for Gold AQ.  Pipe temp sensor set to what ever.

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Be sure to either add a tank or a single packet buffer bridge to the line, this prevents the system from backing up and completely stalling.

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18 minutes ago, Craigjw said:

Use a bridge between the input and output like this.  It's a really easy system and never fails.

The output is always a full packet.  Temp sensor below 250 for steel AQ, or below 110 for Gold AQ.  Pipe temp sensor set to what ever.

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Be sure to either add a tank or a single packet buffer bridge to the line, this prevents the system from backing up and completely stalling.

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So i am using super coolant in it, so i bet no need for the bridge in the aquatuner?

Also no need for the liquid reservoir? What is a single packet buffer?

Finally, what's the automation shown in the picture is for?

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It doesn't matter what you fill your pipes with, be it Super coolant or water, the bridge is just a bypass to the AQ, so when a packet is too cold, the sensor switches off the AQ and the flow bypasses the AQ across the bridge, preventing your pipes busting.  If you don't have the bridge, the output pipe on your AQ will eventually break due to frozen coolant.

This is the most compact AQ loop.

The single packet buffer is just 2 bridges inline as I've shown. The flow follows the first bridge, but if it starts to backup, the flow diverts to the second bridge, releasing the flow.  If you don't have this, you'll have an empty pipe segment in your loop when you start up the AQ.

This AQ setup has never failed me.

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6 minutes ago, Craigjw said:

It doesn't matter what you fill your pipes with, be it Super coolant or water, the bridge is just a bypass to the AQ, so when a packet is too cold, the sensor switches off the AQ and the flow bypasses the AQ across the bridge, preventing your pipes busting.  If you don't have the bridge, the output pipe on your AQ will eventually break due to frozen coolant.

This is the most compact AQ loop.

The single packet buffer is just 2 bridges inline as I've shown. The flow follows the first bridge, but if it starts to backup, the flow diverts to the second bridge, releasing the flow.  If you don't have this, you'll have an empty pipe segment in your loop when you start up the AQ.

This AQ setup has never failed me.

Nice, so i will put both the divert in the output of the aquatuner and the single packet buffer a few segments after it's outside pipe.

 

Also what about the automation?

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It doesn't matter where you buffer is, so long as it's there.

I've already explained the automation, temp sensor stops the AQ overheating and the pipe temp sensor activates it when needed.

Here's one I made earlier, it cools something to 55c.

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2 hours ago, Craigjw said:

It doesn't matter where you buffer is, so long as it's there.

I've already explained the automation, temp sensor stops the AQ overheating and the pipe temp sensor activates it when needed.

Here's one I made earlier, it cools something to 55c.

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How exactly it stops the aq from overheating? Just by starting it?

Also, shouldn't it be an OR gate and not an AND gate?

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You want the AQ running ONLY when the temperature is below 250 AND the liquid is above 55.  You could OR the inputs, but then it becomes more error prone.

It stops it from overheating because it switches it off when the temperature in the surrounding area goes above 250.  The overheat temperature of a steel AQ is 325,however sometimes you might have automation in there, which overheats at 275.

I could have set it to 300, but I don't want the turbine to produce too much heat and I don't care if it goes a little above the maximum operating temperature of a steam turbine (200c), just not too much above, ie 250.

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4 minutes ago, Craigjw said:

You want the AQ running ONLY when the temperature is below 250 AND the liquid is above 55.  You could OR the inputs, but then it becomes more error prone.

It stops it from overheating because it switches it off when the temperature in the surrounding area goes above 250.  The overheat temperature of a steel AQ is 325,however sometimes you might have automation in there, which overheats at 275.

I've thought on using copper AQ. Would that work? It uses too much material.

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The overheat temperature of a copper AQ is 125, which is below the minimum operating temperature of a steam turbine, pointless.  You could opt for gold amalgam, but this limits you, as it's still below 200, which is the maximum operating temperature of a steam turbine for full output power.  Steel is your obvious choice, as it's overheat temp is 325 and you can run the steam chamber at ~200c, giving maximum power.

You don't need the turbine output loop, you can just pipe directly to a vent in the steam chamber.  The turbine output valve loop just limits and buffers flow back into the chamber, allowing for a longer period of peak power output.  When the buffer loop is empty it outputs 1000g, when the loop becomes full, it outputs the full 2000g.

 

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1 hour ago, Craigjw said:

The overheat temperature of a copper AQ is 125, which is below the minimum operating temperature of a steam turbine, pointless.  You could opt for gold amalgam, but this limits you, as it's still below 200, which is the maximum operating temperature of a steam turbine for full output power.  Steel is your obvious choice, as it's overheat temp is 325 and you can run the steam chamber at ~200c, giving maximum power.

You don't need the turbine output loop, you can just pipe directly to a vent in the steam chamber.  The turbine output valve loop just limits and buffers flow back into the chamber, allowing for a longer period of peak power output.  When the buffer loop is empty it outputs 1000g, when the loop becomes full, it outputs the full 2000g.

 

Can you explain better about the buffer loop?

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