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Found 10 results

  1. So! I'm working on making (and constantly updating) the critter + morphs image sheet. [DEPRECATED] Now I've found some updated assets in the files, but I'm pretty sure they haven't been implemented into the game yet...so I'm kinda shooting in the dark with them. So it's as the title says, do you think I got them right? I'm pretty sure I've nailed the second Pacu morph, but I'm also pretty sure I've completely screwed up on the first Pacu morph. How do you think it's supposed to look? Edit: Never mind, I've got everything wrong. I suppose I'll just make this a compilation thingy and ship it over to the art thread. EDIT [07/31/2019]: HERE IS THE MOST UP TO DATE VERSION WITH ALL OF THE CRITTERS. APPRECIATE MY HARD WORK BECAUSE THIS TOOK ME WAY TOO LONG TO DO. If you want the wrangled sprites, it'll be $5. Also assemble it yourself, because I simply cannot find a way to put them all together in an aesthetically appealing way.
  2. I think i`m not the first to suggest dupes riding critters but i think it might be a cool mechanic for some eventual dlc. For it to make sense the critter would have to be able to climb ladders. For now i`d call it the spiderhorse for a lack of a better name. The critter would allow for much faster movement and more stuff carried at a time. How would it work? A critter found wildly in some sort of grass/savanna biome and eat plants present in it, but also able to eat lettuce and balm lilly flowers. When tamed the criter could be put in a building where it would get saddled and mounted by a dupe (can only happen when the critter is happy). Each one would have to be assigned to a particular dupe. He will mount the critter whenever it`s available. A dupe riding the spiderhorse would be 3 tiles high (to help control paths) but the critter tiself would be only 2 high. During downtime the dupe would have to put the critter back in the ranch first before doing downtime activities but normal jobs could be preformed from it (just leaving it next to the machine a dupe is using). Depending on the diet there would be different morphs available. lettuce would cause it to become a seahorse that can swim through water (above or vertical) and balm lilly would change it to a pegasus. The pegasus could then eat gas grass for the ultimate space horse mount an alternative to jet suits. Another thing possible would be putting the critter into the maunal generator for some power. Could be but there only by the rancher and leave once it gets bored. After each "use" the critter would get a debuff not allowing it to be mounted for for a short while (during the night so the night shift coundln`t use the same mount). Next cyckle it should be ready if it was groomed and fed.
  3. Basically, smooth hatches seem pretty neglected right now, by both newbies and serious players alike. The metal refinery isn't that hard to get at least semi-working and provides way better conversion once you've got it, plus it provides better options. Yeah, smooth hatches don't output heat, and in fact can delete heat, but 75% conversion with no coal, plus a ton of ore fed to stone hatches just to get them? Rather a bad deal in my book. I recommend the following: Stone hatches also output half the mass of the eaten ore as refined metal Smooth hatches also output a quarter the mass of the eaten ore as coal This way, stone hatches are like a rock crusher and a regular hatch combined for ore conversion, and smooth hatches still yield some coal for power.
  4. So title pretty much sums it up, open for debate, but I have been playing around with hatches, and find the green dudes pretty underwhelming. Supposedly, every hatch has its place, and green ones are supposed to be the source of food/eggs. Wiki even states they're a reliable source of eggs and meat, but ingame, their reproductive cycle is exactly the same as the much more useful Stone or Smooth hatches, the former eat a crapton of overly abundant rock, and the later yield effortless refining of metal, while also contributing eggs and sometimes meat to the mix. So are the green fellas just a failed mutation in the evolutive process? Everything they eat is better used elsewhere, and they don't give eggs often enough to justify the effort of ranching them.
  5. I want to pet the new pokeshell they are so cute. I want to pet them.
  6. Has anyone else been having trouble with shove voles and vole pups and grooming? I can't get these pups to get groomed. Figured I'd check before I did a bug report.
  7. So I've been doing the math and examining kCal throughput on Hatches. As far as I can tell, tame and glum hatches will die about a half a cycle before they drop an egg. This means you can't do a starving ranch like you can with self-replicating pacu. What I'm trying to figure out is why, pacu should be at the same speed. I'm also looking for inspired ideas that won't require a ton of setup. The whole 'can't fall through the doors' thing is a pita. A hatchling starts at 7,000 kCal internally. A glum hatchling has a 98% reduction in consumption, 14 kCal / cycle. This 5 cycle pass (70 kCal) actually gets them not sustaining. The next 50 glum cycles (time to egg: 55 cycles) are spent to get the egg out. Starting now at 6,930 kCal, they consume 140 kCal/cycle while glum. This is just enough for 49.5 cycles. They're .5 cycles short of the egg. All my great plans of a self sustaining starvation ranch went out the window. Other than some automation tricks that you can't do since doors won't drop to feed them as hatchlings and then transferring them to a starvation pit somehow (max 20, no joy), what have you folks done for large scale hatch ranching at pacu volumes?
  8. I have a small room with a shearing station and a whole bunch of wild dreckos. I started with about 20 of them and I didn't pay attention to the room since it's all taken care of automatically. A couple hundred turns later I look at the room again... and there are only 8 dreckos there. I had two glossies; those are gone too. There doesn't seem to be a reason for this. The temperature is acceptable (25C), they are wild so they don't need to eat, they aren't drowning, they are getting hauled to another room. So why would they be disappearing on me?
  9. How does this thing work? I built one and I've got nothing but questions. It said it needs to be built "above" a body of water, but it didn't say how far. I originally had it completely above the water line (as in, the water was two tiles lower than the bottom) and I didn't see it do anything and my fish were always hungry so it looked like they weren't being fed. I've increased the water in the tank to bring the level up, but the fish are still not eating. The description says it feeds once per day, but when? And does it drop the algae ball into the tank or do the fish have to swim up and eat it? Do they even need to be fed? Does feeding Pacu do anything for egg production? Can a pacu be tamed to see it's reproduction rate?
  10. Hey dupes and dupettes, here is how I automate my stables, hoping you can find this useful. This is by no means necessary, but ONI is about doing all the unneeded and over engineered things, right? To fully automate a stable you need one or more clocks and a critter dispenser. Preferably you'll want an already full stable to start with. I use a water clock as it is reliable as long as you don't have brownouts or blackouts. This post explains how to build one. Mini water pumps are a thing now, so you can build one that consumes less power and uses less water. Once you've built your clock, you'll have to set it so that it gives a green signal everytime a critter dies. To find the desired value just divide (critter lifespan) by (number of critters), then multiply by the grams/second value you've set on your valve. For hatches, shove voles, pips and pokeshells, all of which live 100 cycles, you'll want a value of 12,5 cycles (100/8), or 7500 seconds. At e.g. 10 g/s, this would be 75 kg. This is valid assuming that your stables only house one critter morph at a time. If you want multiple morphs, you'll have to build more clocks and set them accordingly. If your stable houses only one type of critter you can also just use a critter sensor instead of a clock, but that is boring and totally not fun. You'll then have to build a dispenser (they can be made quite small by using pneumatic doors) and a system that ensures that only one egg will be delivered every 12,5 cycles. To achieve this you can use a conveyor shutoff. The shutoff entry port must be near the wall, and the room should be sealed. When our clock (represented by the hydro sensor) reaches the desired value it will send a green pulse to the memory toggle, enabling the conveyor shutoff. The next egg that passes by will enter the shutoff and the critter sensor will detect it, sending a green pulse to the reset port of the memory toggle. Additional eggs will bypass the shutoff, until our clock gives a green signal again. What you do with those eggs, well, their destiny is in your hands. To make the dispenser you can take advantage of the mechanic that causes critters to fall through closed pneumatic doors if they get trapped inside a door. Here's an example: This is a hatch dispenser. The critter will reach adulthood on the tile under the conveyor chute. It will then jump on the nearby tile, where the critter sensor will detect it, closing the door behind it and opening the next door (the horizontal one). As soon as the hatch enters the door frame, the door is slam shut and the critter falls inside the stable. For pokeshells you'll need a taller version, since they are 2 tiles high when adult, or you can make the dispenser slightly wider and without a jump to drop the baby down instead. When dealing with pips, dreckos and shove voles you can either use a dispenser or drop the eggs in a water pool, separated from the stable by an open door. Since pipsqueaks, drecklets and vole pups can climb walls, they will instantly try to reach for a safe zone when they are born, thus entering the stable. Since they hate water, they won't path back out of the stable. You can use this for slicksters too, if they hatch at the bottom of an oil pool they will float upwards. Just remember to not include gaps in the dispenser, and to use refined metal, obsidian or diamond window tiles for shove voles. When dealing with flying critters you can also use liquids to your advantage. This method works with pufts and shine bugs. Here pufts hatch in the water lock and enter the stable. They can't path back, even if the top liquid layer is only a few grams. You can trap the puft prince somewhere using water and feed him oxygen. He won't be groomed, will consume much less and will still be counted as present in the stable, boosting egg chances for the other pufts. To conclude, here is a little project I'm currently working on in order to build it in survival mode. It's a stacked ranch for pips, hatches and pokeshells, using some unusual shapes. Some overlays, work in progress. In case you were wondering, the stacked liquids are 200 kg (one bottle) each, except for the top water layer in the pip ranch (1000 kg per tile) Also bear in mind that, when dealing with critter morphs, an extremely unfortunate event can happen: if every critter drops the wrong type of egg as the clock goes green, you'll soon experience a time window of 1/(time to reproduce) cycles where the stable is not full. This can also happen if all critters lay an egg just before the clock goes green. You can prevent this by having a buffer room with sweepers on a clock where eggs sit for some cycles, or even hatch and it also acts as a killroom. This will also ensure that an egg will be delivered exactly every 12,5 cycles and you won't have to wait for a critter to lay one.. but... Oh well....Still have to find a way to make it look not ugly. In fact, gonna try it again now. I hope you found this information useful, see ya! Much love