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  1. Farm for 150+ hatch (2500 kg of coal, 2200 kcal, etc.). A copy of the Pokeshell Farm. A little bit of your patience, there is only one farm left.
  2. All the plants in one article. Designed for the novice player.
  3. The scheme from the previous article was called too complicated. Here is a very simple article for beginners.
  4. Two Shine Bug farms producing 1.5 and 7 kW:
  5. Hello and welcome to my tutorial on how to make your own custom shader for DST! This sort of knowledge is limited to very few people in the community so I thought to make a tutorial to make this knowledge available for everyone who wants to make a custom shader for their mods! What’s a Shader? Originally shaders were used to shade 3D models in video games. Today they're used to shape, change color, size and etc on textures, used in post processing and so on. They're used all the time in DST and I can show you some examples! One common shader is the “bloom” shader. In the first image here is a roaring campfire where the fire has the “bloom” shader applied that greatly brightens the fire, the 2nd picture has a campfire without the “bloom” shader. The “bloom” shader is generally used to make things bright and shiny! They’re used everywhere in the game. They’re used for the tiles you stand on, the ocean, the UI, spider webbing, haunted effect, colour cubes and much much more! (Bloom On) (Bloom Off) So what do I need to make a custom Shader? -To make a shader file(.ksh), you’ll need a vertex shader(.vs) file and a pixel/fragment shader(.ps) file Quick Explanation on Vertex and Pixel Shaders -Some basic knowledge of GLSL(OpenGL Shading Language) GLSL is the main language we’ll be using to make our custom shaders, I recommend you get some basic understanding and knowledge of the language but if you understand other languages fairly well(such as LUA, which is used for DST programming most of the time) then you should be able to figure out GLSL as you go along An important resource will be this website here! https://thebookofshaders.com/ https://thebookofshaders.com/edit.php This website has a lot of knowledge on shaders and even has an editor for making fragment shaders! Some shaders being showcased are clickable and will lead you to an editor with the code that make up that shader. Almost every shader you see on this website can be applied in DST itself, so take a gander around and see what shaders you like. Programming your Shader So let’s get to programming your shaders! In both the vertex shader and pixel shader files! Create two files like these wherever you’d like. (We will be moving these files later however) You can name them whatever you’d like. But I've named them “examplePixelShader” and “exampleVertexShader” in my case. Be sure the PixelShader file has .ps has its extension, and the VertexShader has .vs as its extension. Now open up your VertexShader.vs file and copy paste this code in. uniform mat4 MatrixP; uniform mat4 MatrixV; uniform mat4 MatrixW; attribute vec4 POS2D_UV; varying vec3 PS_TEXCOORD; void main() { vec3 POSITION = vec3(POS2D_UV.xy, 0); float samplerIndex = floor(POS2D_UV.z/2.0); vec3 TEXCOORD0 = vec3(POS2D_UV.z - 2.0*samplerIndex, POS2D_UV.w, samplerIndex); mat4 mtxPVW = MatrixP * MatrixV * MatrixW; gl_Position = mtxPVW * vec4( POSITION.xyz, 1.0 ); PS_TEXCOORD = TEXCOORD0; } Why do we put this code in? Well this code is necessary for making sure our PixelShader will only apply to the texture/entity we apply it to. What the code is doing is loading in some variables the game gives us (POS2D_UV, PS_TEXCOORD, MatrixP, MatrixV, etc) and we’re doing calculations with those variables to give the game the positions(gl_Position variable). And now the PixelShader will only apply to pixels in that position. If we just did something like gl_Position = vec4(1.0) And set that to the gl_Position variable, our Pixel Shader will run for every pixel on the screen which isn’t what we’d like. As for the code you put in your PixelShader? Well, it can be anything really! But you can find many examples in the bookofshaders website I linked earlier. For my example i’ll be using the code here! Found in: https://thebookofshaders.com/06/ This pixel shader here will switch the color of our entity/texture from yellow to blue and back constantly. You can follow along and plop the code of the example i'm using, or plop your own code in. Just like that! But before we continue, there’s something very important we need to do for my example. (This might not apply to the code you're using) Do you see that “u_time” variable there? Well we need to replace it! Unfortunately the game does not provide us with a u_time variable to use. However! That’s because there’s another variable that’s used to measure time. uniform vec4 TIMEPARAMS; We can use the TIMEPARAMS variable instead! Go ahead and replace the uniform float u_time; line with the “uniform vec4 TIMEPARAMS;” line up above. The TIMEPARAMS variable is used in the game's own shader files(anim.ksh) and that’s where I found it. Now go ahead and replace all instances of “u_time” in your code with “TIMEPARAMS.x” For example, from this To this! Of course if you don’t have the “u_time” variable anywhere in your code you can ignore this. If your pixel shader does something that's unchanging and constant then you probably don’t need a time variable to use. Compiling Our Shader Now we should be done programming our VertexShader and PixelShader files. It’s time for the fun part of compiling our files into the actual “ksh” file which is the actual shader we’ll be loading in-game. Copy your files, and head on over to this directory here “C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\Don't Starve Mod Tools\mod_tools\tools\bin” And paste your files here. You’ll notice there’s an executable called “ShaderCompiler.exe” which will be the program we use to compile our shader. Open your command prompt (Windows Key + R, or search Command Prompt in your computer search bar) Type in “cd”, put a space and then paste the directory I gave you earlier and press Enter. Now you’re able to do the compiling as you’re in the directory with the ShaderCompiler. ShaderCompiler.exe -little “shadername” “exampleVertexShader.vs” “examplePixelShader.ps” “shadername.ksh” -oglsl Paste this line into your command prompt like this. Make sure to replace instances of “shadername” with what you’d like to name your shader. And replace “exampleVertexShader” and “examplePixelShader” with the names you have given them. And then you can execute the command by pressing Enter. If your files were prepared correctly and there are no errors, you should get something like this right after in your command prompt. If an error did pop up. Let me know and i'll try to help you out! But anyways, if you did it correctly, this means the shader compiled correctly! You should now find a file named “shadername.ksh” or whatever you set the name of your shader to be, in the directory. Yup, there it is! Grab this file, and head on over to your mod directory Make a new folder named “shaders” in your mod directory., place/paste your new shader file in there. Head on over to your “modmain.lua” and load the shader file in the Assets table like this. You’ll probably already have an Asset table filled up so just plop the Asset(“SHADER”, “shaders/shadername.ksh”) line in your assets table, and be sure to rename accordingly. It’s finally time to test in-game, will your custom shader work? Let’s find out! Create a world and enable your mod. Once you’re in, copy and paste this command and hover over any entity in the game. (Be sure to replace “shadername” with the actual name of your shader) c_select().AnimState:SetBloomEffectHandle(resolvefilepath(“shaders/shadername.ksh”)) And Congratulations you (hopefully) did it! You may use this shader on any entity/texture you’d like at any time. Have fun with this new knowledge and understanding of shaders and I hope us Modders can make some wicked stuff with this! Notes:
  6. This is my first guide so it will be ugly... What this guide is about: I have been meaning to make a guide about Wormwood because there just so few guides out there on how this character can actually heal. The bat bat is so great on Wormwood it almost feels like this item was made specifically for him. Unfortunately, some people seem to think this character does not have an easy time healing and that the bat bat is niche. Even the first time I brought up the item on this forum a member, won't mention names, accused me of using a niche item and that just because I used it, it did not mean it was the most optimal. Yes, the item has flaws but you will find that Wormwood + bat bat synergy will take your Wormwood play to the next level. Because Wormwood has so many "hidden" perks I wanted to make a detailed guide of a potential year 1 playthrough. What this guide will contain: This guide is a foundation full of tips I use in a normal play session but easier. I took my time with a lot of things and even made tons of mistakes. I also did not go after some bosses I usually try to take out like the guardian, the chess pieces boss and fuelweaver (I cheese him so...), so that the average person has some breathing room and can improve upon from this guide. The plan is to use as many perks as possible to show the character's advantages as he progresses to kill Bee Queen and make life easier past year 1. Why Bee Queen? Bee Queen has two items that are super important to Wormwood: The bundling wrap and jelly beans. Even if you do not plan on killing Bee Queen, I hope you can utilize this guide to save both on time and headaches as you play Wormwood. This guide will be limited as a sort of list of potential things to do throughout the year, so you can refer back to it at your leisure (plus I'm doing it from the ps4 and it has limits...) Days 1-5: Prep for the ruins The first thing you will want to collect is a stack and a half of grass and 30 sticks (collect sticks as you need them). Once that is done begin exploring the map. The things you will want to prioritize are: 14 Silk and 6 marble as you explore the world. As soon as you find any silk and a pond craft the fishing pole! Here are the things I've gathered by day 2 and have set my science machine as soon as I found a pond. Collecting 5 fish morsels on day 2 will ensure they are rotting sometime in day 5 and will help Wormwood save any time wasted on gathering silk with his speed increase. Find a central area to place an alchemy engine, the deciduous biome is great as it contains pig king (gold), ponds, moleworms, trees, sinkholes, and pig houses (destroy 5 pig houses). You will then want to drop excess items and collect: 2 moleworms 4 rabbits 3 basilisk wings A fresh ham bat and the materials for 1 more Here I am prepared with everything I need. A precrafted prestihattinator, a precrafted tent, 2 moleworms, got some some carrots and monster meat (to induce insanity), 3 basilisk wings for bat bat, some left over grass and twigs, almost rotted fish morsels, two doodads for moggles, a lantern, and half the materials for precrafting another alchemey engine. If you did not find enough marble for a suit then I suggest crafting 2 wooden armors for tanking the bishops (save the pinecones!). At this time you will want to craft some walls and a thermal stone (i forgot the thermal stone oops!) as you'll need them later. Destroy the alchemy engine and pre-craft another one. Days 5-7 Apply the rotten fish to start the blooming process and start looking for the ruins. Apply 1 rotting fish only, when you revert from phase 3 to phase 2 of blooming, apply 1 more and continue the cycle. (Aka only apply 1 at phase 2) Once you find the ruins, kill some depthworms (I recommend 6 but don't take too long looking for them). Place an alchemy engine back in the muddy biome and craft your moggles. After collecting the moggles and some glowberries invade the ruins and tank 2 bishops. Collect the nightmare fuel and purple gems and set up your tent. You can collect nightmare fuel from nightmares spawned at fissure, shadow splumonkeys, and/or going insane from eating monster meat. When ever you need to get out of insanity in a pinch use a few seed or pine cones, but just enough to become sane again. You'll need 12 nightmare fuel, 6 living logs and two purple gems for a shadow manipulator, the bat bat and a darksword. When you need hp for the 6 living logs or are badly hurt you can use the tent to turn the monster meat to hp to heal. Days 8-?? Try getting out by day 12-15 Once Im back to full hp for the last time I will never use a tent again except for decoration. Equip your marble suit and your bat bat and kill every bishop you see while your sane from the tent. After doing that remain insane for the rest of the ruins pillaging. Everytime you have full hp from using the bat bat craft living logs but never go below 75 hp or a sneaky terror beak might kill you (use darkswords for damage when you're done healing)! Try getting your hands on 2 green gems for an construction amulet and a deconstruction staff. Use the amulet for the decon. Staff (if only 2 green gems) and a star caller (if only 2 yellow gems) the rest of the uses make 3 thelucite suits. Then use the decon. Staff on those suits to profit 9 thelucite. My ruins where small but the point to to try to make it out with 2 uses of a decon. Staff, 5 thelucite crowns (may need less if you're good at kiting DF), lots of purple gems (2 min), 2 red gems, and a magi. Amulet. I always spend more time then I need to in the ruins. I also try to obtain a stack of nightmare fuel and living logs. Here is everything I left with. Bananas are Wormwoods favorite food so if you're low on hunger eat some! Make note of bunnymen homes on your way back but dont hammer them yet. You will have enough rot to remain blooming throughout Autumn. Drop anything you don't need at a good location on your map above ground (you'll need bat bat, crowns, star caller, magi, and your living logs + nightmare fuel). Days 12/15-20 I will continue to be insane the entire time I am above ground until I find DF and collect a full stack of nightmare fuel. Collect carrots on the way but DONT EAT THEM. If you need food collect berries, eat monster meat, or craft the bramble husk and collect cactus flesh. When you're ready, kill DF. Dragonfly and klaus are a good source of purple gems and I usually use the same bat bat for both. Killing them is self-sustaining unless you need more than 1 bat bat for each. Everytime DF leaves to spawn larvae you can plant seeds nearby to regain sanity. Make sure you have 3 seeds remaining for a bird+ bird cage. Unfortunately the video of me killing it didn't save so I made another video on another world showcasing the fight. I apologize for my horrible kiting, I haven't made a new world since the halloween event. I basically only use the double bone armor strat in my 1500 world. Don't Worry about the seeds burning. They don't matter. I used the bramble husk to collect cactus flesh before hand because I ran out of food. You want to base near a sinkhole that is also near some spiders nest for spring time grinding. As you look for your base continue gathering carrots but don't eat them. My base near a sinkhole. I placed an ice box soon after and placed my carrots inside but I did not unblock the sinkhole because I didn't find any nearby bunnymen homes on my way back. When you get the scale craft the scaled flooring and not the furnace. Use the uses of the decon. Staff to get two scales instead of 1 and place the scaled furnace at base and the other either: near Mactusk (I recommend) or where ever you want. I placed mine near the triple mctusk camp in my world. This makes it easy to swap thermal stones with one that is already preheated by the furnace. Make your search for Klaus with the remaining crowns+ a bat bat+ and a magi. When looking for Klaus I will place a dwarf star in the middle of the biomes where it spawns and drop one of my thermal stones. When I explore one half of the biome I will drop the thermal stone I was carrying and pick up the preheated one. You dont need Winter gear If you didn't get any beforehand, but if you didn't find the biomes where klaus spawns, it may be harder. Carry a torch to burn trees and reheat the thermal. Once you find klaus defeat it for another purple gem (blue + red). I use a ham bat for the first stage just because, you can use a darksword or none at all, Its up to you. As you can see I have the same bat bat that I used on DF. After killing it I drop off my goodies at base and prepare for Deerclops. Deerclops is great for chopping down trees and is my source for my first few chests. Let him run wild and when you're satisfied let the treeguards catch up and kill it. I suggest this method for Wormwood to avoid the constant insanity of chopping down trees. I wasted two days getting him to the forest biome because I initially took him to the wrong biome lol. On your way back collect the parts for a bird trap + birdcage I get my gold from giving pig king wires which I always leave near him. Turn your carrots to seeds before they rot. You can do this when ever you have time but not before they rot, of course. We will be weaponizing carrot seeds against bee queen, haha. Don't anger the plant farmer! Days 20-52 I finally made some time to get some bunnymen homes and relocated them for auto farming bat bats. Now go in search of any marble you have discovered in your world. Planting shrubs days 1-3 of spring will usually allow them enough time to make a profit, in time for the bee queen fight. Now Ill start farming silk, living logs, monster meat, carrot seeds and nightmare fuel while waiting for lure plants to spawn. When lureplants spawn your map will be updated automatically so don't go looking for them, check your map! (I didn't know this at the time, guess who wasted a bunch of time looking for them lol). Once I collected 48 silk this is everything I had. You only need to run through your carrot patch (blooming) once to guarantee the seeds. This allows Wormwood to offset the penalty of monster meat and the bat bat. I got greedy and ended up collecting too much stuff so I wasted more time. When you are insane farming nightmare fuel and spiders at the same time, don't forget to plant carrot seeds in a pinch if you are swarmed (craft living logs at full hp). Place your lureplants 2 days before the fight starts, as it takes 2 days for the lureplant to spawn eyes. I planted them on day 50 but the sooner the better. As soon as the lureplants are ready, mine your marble trees and fight BQ. I used 7 marble suits (1 was at 40-50%) 7 beekeeper hats 2 bat bats 40 NF chester has more inside of him I wasted too much time over preparing but that's ok because I ended up making tons of mistakes in the fight itself. Days 52- 55 Mistakes I made in the fight: 1. Didnt guide BQ AROUND the eye plants for the grumble to lag behind. 2. Didnt always set up BQ well so she tool multiple eyeplant damage, while I attacked her. 3. (My biggest sin was) Didnt recognize when BQ went into phase 2 making me waste half a day. She goes into phase 2 when she speeds up after you and spawns twice as many grumbles. 4. I got wet... Yeah... Should of used the eyebrella since I had more than enough marble suits. Remove the lureplants in phase 2 or they will kill the grumble which will cause BQ to spawn more on top of you. I hope you guys can forgive this messy fight because as you can see, playing on the ps4 is messy as hell. My items jump all over my inventory due to the lack of an item wheel. Everything left over from the fight. What now? Id make an extra bundling wrap and wrap the royal honey because Im in summer now (smoldering starts on day 2 of summer I believe) and place a lure plant near my base so it smolders (and possibly burns down) first. Then you can craft a miners hat and use the bundling wraps to gather bunnymen homes all over the caves to start farming bee queen starting year 2. Wormwood doesn't need much in the caves, just eat red shrooms or monster meat, and heal with the bat bat. You can also use a husk to uncover the atrium during summer. For sanity bring a stack of pinecones that deerclops so gracefully knocked down for us. Taming a beef starting year 2 is also a good idea. I hope this guide helps at least one person because this took way too long and I don't think Ill make another guide again lol. If you have ideas to improve my guide let me know! Just remember this a beginners guide so I tried to keep it simple and without using expensive items like the panflute method for bee queen. This guide lets you make tons of mistakes like I did. You can stop at any time too. You can only use the bat bat if you want (instead killing bee queen) and prep for fire proofing your base if you'd like.
  7. 1. Download and install SteamCMD: Click here to download 2. Visit the Klei Accounts site and log in to your account. (Please note, Dedicated Servers are not supported for the Xbox and PlayStation versions of the game.) 3. On the accounts page, visit the “GAMES” tab, then scroll down to Don’t Starve Together and click on the “Game Servers” button. 4. If you don’t have any server yet, please click the “ADD NEW SERVER” button. If you have a valid server, click the green “CONFIGURE” button. Expired servers are colored in red and should be deleted. 5. In the “Configure Server” page you will find a form with some options that you can edit to customize your server. Once you are ready, click the “Download Settings” button. Download the Zip archive, extract the content, and place the folder “MyDediServer” inside \\Documents\Klei\DoNotStarveTogether\. 6. Copy and save the following text to: \\Documents\Klei\StartDSTServers.bat Please Note: You will need to fix the file pathing if the steamcmd or the game’s folders were not installed in the default location. 7. Checklist of all the files you should have now: 8. Double-click StartDSTServers.bat to start your dedicated servers!
  8. Several variations of the Drecko farm, with a capacity of up to 1.6 tons of plastic.
  9. Several variations of the Shove Vole farm, with a capacity of up to 23700 kcal of meat:
  10. This is my personal sour gas boiler design, built for late game, high throughput, self reset and regulation, and liquid methane output. It takes in 20 kg/s of 95°c crude oil and produces liquid methane in two built in infinite pressure storages at at -174°c. Once at equilibrium, it draws approximately 4.5 kw of power. It was built to be able to process a large amount of crude oil and output liquid methane for easy transport. The secondary objective was to make it more reliable and automated, as sour gas boilers in general tend to require careful priming, and previous versions could become too hot and overpressure or too cold and freeze. Overall, it's generally a bit overbuilt, but I wanted it to be extremely reliable, which I believe it is, having run it stably for over 200 cycles now. The upwards flow of sour gas ensures that any lose natural gas will eventually find it's way back to the final cooling chamber, and stepped cooling ensures the sour gas will only ever condense at the top, where it's supposed to. The center features a fully automated vacuum insulated gate, that can be triggered along with closing the liquid vents should either the cooling section get too hot or the heating section get too cold, thermally isolating the two sections and shutting off the oil until both sections reach operating temperatures again. The heating area also features liquid tepidizers in water thermal batteries that will automatically turn on if the heating section becomes too cold or does not have any sour gas to pull heat from yet, injecting heat using power from the grid. This allows the system to recover from getting too cold or to automatically heat up from empty without manual intervention. Ceramic was used for most insulators, which is recommended as the build operates at temperatures from -190°c to 550°c. Copper was used for most conductors, although aluminium, gold, or thermium can be used instead. Steel was used as a general purpose material where no specific material properties were needed, and can be substituted by most other metals except lead, which could melt in the heating section. The exception being the aquatuners, which need to be steel in the cooling section and thermium in the heating section. The steam turbine and transformer chambers are filled with hydrogen, as a thermal interface for cooling. The liquid tepidizer chambers are filled with 1000 kg of water per tile, and the heating section is filled with 50 kg of super coolant per tile, although the system can likely run with less. All coolant loops use super coolant. The conveyor system is to remove sulfur. Now, the images. The resolution is somewhat low, as I had to zoom out quite a bit and only have a 1080p monitor. A blueprint file is included if you have the blueprints mod. tower of methane mk4.blueprint
  11. This guide will help you set up a dedicated server on Mac OS X. The commands in this guide must be entered in the Terminal.app. The character ~ at the beginning of directories and filenames is shorthand for $HOME which is a variable that refers to your home directory, for example, /Users/alice/. 1. Install steamcmd. 2. Configure and download the server settings 3. Create the script that will run the servers. 4. Give the script executable permissions 5. Run the script to start the dedicated servers:
  12. Which lamp will Trovaldo light? Whether you guessed it or not, I suggest you read the article Electrical Circuits. Very much awaiting criticism and additions!
  13. 3 options for refining crude oil into petroleum, no magma or volcanoes: If something is forgotten, suggest it.
  14. So as not to turn out as on the screen... The article is designed more for beginner players. I have two more articles to translate. See what else I've missed, what circuits haven't I put together? Help!
  15. My first non-beefalo forums guide! I've been doing a lot of research about winter temperature, thermal stone, insulation, etc via testing and looking through code and I now have too much knowledge and power that I must release through forums. Now updated with insulation and heat source comparison tables! How to properly warm up thermal stones Since most of y'all won't give up your rock no matter what possibly better options I present, might as well learn to use them properly. The only realistic ways to warm up a thermal stone to it's max of 90 degrees is burning trees and lava ponds. A 4 furnace set up can also warm them up to a good 80 degrees. Most people keep the stone on them and warm themselves up until they overheat. Don't do it this way. YOUR temperature doesn't impact the thermal stone, and by the time you're overheating the thermal stone still can use more time. For every extra second you can heat your stone you'll get 5 seconds of warmth. Set it on the ground right next to the burning tree when you're warming it up. 1 tree won't burn long enough either, you'll want to burn a second one afterwards. A 90 degree thermal stone should last about 8.5 minutes. Wearing insulation clothing won't help an orange or yellow thermal stone. But when the thermal stone runs out, you will have about 20 degrees left which you can get some value out of with insulation. If you're wearing a tam it'll give you another ~80 seconds at the end and therefore more of a warning before you start freezing. You could even pop on a beefalo hat right before your thermal runs out to give you an extra ~160 seconds. How to properly warm up without thermal stones Insulation clothing is amazing. It's really simple and straightforward, and can stack to last a really long time. A beefalo hat gives you 9 seconds of warmth for each second you warm yourself up, keeping you warm for up to 10.5 minutes! A beefalo hat + puffy/hibearnation vest gives you 17 seconds for each second you warm up, lasting almost 2.5 days if you overheat! Not to mention characters with beards getting even more. I especially like using insulated clothing on a beefalo because you often don't have as much competition for the equip slots. IMO, clothing easily wins over pet rocks if you're not switching or bundling them. Insulation Comparison/Cheatsheet/Whatever Bundling and Switching Thermals and Sunfish Bundling thermals is amazing. They won't cool down while bundled. Bundle them at max temperature or close to it and when 1 runs out swap it with a fresh hot stone in the bundle or your 4 furnace heating station if you're nearby. However, scorching sunfish are even better! You'll have to go sea fishing in summer and catch one. Each one lives for 2.66 days in winter in an insulated pack, and they keep you warm as long as they're alive with no complications. Swap the fish with a fresh one in your bundle or in your tin fishin bin if you're nearby. You theoretically can also use thermal stones or sunfish to warm up, then bundle them and use double clothing to stay warm for a while, and repeat to theoretically last the whole winter without needing to go to base to switch or stop to warm up. But you need multiple thermals or ideally sunfish (warmer) in your inventory to warm up to a decent temperature, and at that point you might as well just do the above. Hot Food This is obviously not generally recommended but it is technically viable. Living off of spicy chili (2 per day) with double clothing gives you exactly enough warmth and hunger to survive! Also 2 warly chili spiced foods a day work the same and is exactly enough to give you a perma 20% damage boost. And of course there's hot dragon chili salad that can actually keep you warm. Everything else loses it's heat over time if you're wearing an insulated pack and you can't wear a hibearnation vest if you're wearing an insulated pack. EDIT: apparently spicy chili is also susceptible to losing it's heat over time. So only Warly's chili spiced dishes or hot dragon chili salad is reasonably doable because of this. Heat source comparison table MECHANICS IF YOU'RE INTERESTED World Temperature In winter, the world temperature is around -20 degrees, but it can dip to -30 and even beyond during night. Generally, the player temperature (and thermal stone temp) is trying to match the world temperature. Player Temperature While above 70 degrees, you take 1.25 overheating damage each second, and the warning for this of orange color around your screen happens once you reach 65 degrees. At 5 degrees, frozen marks appear as a warning, and below 0 degrees you take 1.25 freezing damage each second. Thermal Stone Temperature The thermal stone also has it's own internal temperature, actually separate from the temperature of the heat it emits. It has a range of -20 to 90 degrees. It turns yellow when it cools to 30 degrees above the world temperature (~10 degrees). And turns white when it cools to 10 degrees above world temp (around -10 degrees). This means the thermal stone actually stays yellow a bit longer while world temp is lower, and during the very middle of the winter night when world temp is just under -30 degrees, it can't even run out because it can't go below -20 degrees. While orange it keeps you at around 35 degrees and while yellow it keeps you around 20 degrees (a fixed temperature throughout each stage, not directly dependent on it's own temp). It works exactly the same as a player with 120 insulation in terms of warming up and cooling down. Warming up While within 2.5 tiles of a heat source (fires, hot thermal stones, burning trees, etc), the heat source can warm players and thermal stones. While above 0 degrees, the player is always warmed 1 degree per second (5 degrees per second when freezing/below 0 degrees). The maximum temperature that the heat source can warm the player to is determined by world temperature, distance to the heat source, and how hot said heat source is. The way this is calculated seems weird and inconsistent so I'm leaving this for @Hornete to figure out. EDIT: A few notes about thermal stones: they act as 2.1x weaker heat sources when on the ground instead of in your inventory, and thermal stones can't warm other thermal stones for obvious reasons. Oh and they don't warm up faster on the ground, idk where that myth came from. In this VERY technical and thorough post I explain how to calculate the temperature that heat source(s) can warm a player or thermal stones to. But here are some actually potentially useful notes: With additional heat sources, you're not only warmed to a higher temperature, but it's a more consistent temperature because ambient temp shifts have less of an effect. So lets say ambient temperature decreases by 15 degrees. 1 furnace would be able to heat you up 7.5 degrees less. 2 furnaces would lose 5 degrees. And with 4 furnaces, players and thermal stones would only lose 3 degrees of what they could otherwise get to with a higher ambient temp. The heat thermal stones emit in your inventory is also less based on ambient temp, and therefore more consistent. How close you are to the heat source has a pretty negligible effect as long as you stay within a couple units of it; there's very little difference between being directly on the heat source (which you can't do with many) and being 1 or 2 units next to it. Cooling down While not near a heat source during winter, players and thermal stones cool down at a rate determined by insulation. This loss is very straightforward and easy to calculate. Just add 30 to your total insulation and divide by 30 (willow and wes also have -30 insulation with clothing). This value is how many seconds it takes to lose 1 degree. So a thermal stone or player wearing winter hat loses 1 degree every 5 seconds (120+30)/30. A fully bearded Wilson with a beefalo hat and hibearnation/puffy vest loses 1 degree every 21.5 seconds (135+240+240+30)/30 lasting over 3 days.
  16. Here I will walk through the code and explain how to calculate the exact temperature any combination of any number of heating and/or cooling sources, on the ground or in your inventory, at any distance, wet or dry, in any world ambient temperature, etc, can warm players and/or thermal stones. So first, it's important to understand the "self.delta" variable in the temperature.lua script. It's calculated every frame and can be almost any number. It starts as the ambient temperature subtracted by the player temp with possibly a couple other modifiers, and then the game goes through every single nearby heat source and cooling source within a 10 unit (2.5 tile) radius and each of these add or subtract to the self.delta. It will often end up with some crazy number but more or less all that matters to the game at the moment is if it's positive or negative. The delta mostly just determines whether the player will be warmed, cooled, or stay about the same temperature. But I've figured out an easy way to use it to calculate how much the nearby heat sources can warm/cool the player to, too. Before nearby heat sources are calculated or when there aren't any, this is what self.delta is: self.delta = ambient_temperature + self.totalmodifiers + self:GetMoisturePenalty() - self.current Unless you're wet or under the effect of fire nettles, you can ignore self.totalmodifiers and self:GetMoisturePenalty() to simplify it to just the ambient temperature minus the player temperature. With fire nettles, add 60. I'm doing a simple example in winter. Let's say ambient temp is -20 degrees and the player's temperature is currently 0 degrees. self.delta = -20 + 0 + 0 - 0 self.delta = -20 Every warming and cooling source has a "heat" in the code. You can also find them on the wiki pages for freezing and overheating or asking me. I'm using the scaled furnace which has a "heat" of 115 degrees. local heat = v.components.heater:GetHeat() --Get the heat of the heat source heat = 115 Next, heatfactor is calculated based on the distance to the center of the heat source. A player standing right next to a scaled furnace is 1 unit (wall unit) away from it's center. This distance is squared so if you were 2 units away the DistanceSquared would be 4. But 1 squared is still 1. local heatfactor = 1 - DistanceSquared_To_Player / 100 heatfactor = 1 - 1 / 100 heatfactor = 0.99 Next the heatfactor is multiplied by the heat of the heat source. In this case the heatfactor only reduces the heat by 1% but if you were, say, 7 units away it would be a 49% reduction. local warmingtemp = heat * heatfactor --multiply the heat factor and the heat warmingtemp = 115 * 0.99 warmingtemp = 113.85 Things are slightly different with a cooling source, however, because it has to be based around the overheat temperature of 70 degrees. This doesn't have to be done with warming because the freezing temp is 0 degrees. local coolingtemp = (heat - self.overheattemp) * heatfactor + self.overheattemp --selfoverheattemp = 70 Back to the scaled furnace. The warmingtemp of 113.85 is definitely higher than the player temperature of 10 degrees so this next "if" statement is passed. Of course with a coolingtemp, it has to be less than the player temp. if warmingtemp > self.current then --If the warming temperature is higher than the current player temperature, do this -- 113.85 > 0 -- Endothermic heat sources if coolingtemp < self.current then But now self.delta is being warmed by warmingtemp subtracted again by self.current. Thermal stones in your inventory also have a 2.1x multiplier, and scorching sunfish a 2x multiplier to (warmingtemp - currenttemp) in the form of carriedmult. But for a scaled furnace, we ignore this value. And the formula is the exact same for a coolingtemp, by the way. self.delta = self.delta + (warmingtemp - self.current) * carriedmult --carriedmult only for heat sources in your inventory, ignore it otherwise self.delta = -20 + (113.85 - 0) self.delta = 93.85 So with just 1 scaled furnace nearby, self.delta is 93.85 degrees. Obviously a scaled furnace can't warm you that high during winter. So what we have to do is divide it by 2. That's because the player temperature is actually being subtracted from self.delta twice in total; once in the beginning calculation and once subtracted from the scaled furnace's warmingtemp here. With a second valid heat source, we'd divide by 3. 93.85 / 2 = 46.93 degrees But what if there was also say, a level 1 (small) endothermic fire nearby? It has a heat of -10 degrees. It's 3 units away from the player so the heatfactor would look like this: local heatfactor = 1 - DistanceSquared_To_Player / 100 heatfactor = 1 - 9 / 100 heatfactor = 0.91 This heatfactor is used to calculate the coolingtemp like so. local coolingtemp = (heat - self.overheattemp) * heatfactor + self.overheattemp coolingtemp = (-10 - 70) * 0.91 + 70 coolingtemp = -2.8 And this is added to self.delta along with the players temperature being subtracted--self.delta starts equal to 83.85 because of the scaled furnace --self.delta starts equal to 93.85 because of the scaled furnace self.delta = self.delta + coolingtemp - self.current self.delta = 93.85 + (-2.8 - 0) self.delta = 91.05 The delta only decreased by like 2 degrees, but that's misleading. Now, the player is only warmed to about 30 degrees instead of 47. For every additional valid heat source, increase the number you're dividing by, by 1. For thermal stones and scorching sunfish in your inventory, this number is actually instead increased by 2.1 and 2 respectively. So with a scaled furnace + thermal in inventory, you'd divide the self.delta by 3.1. 91.05 / 3 = 30.35 --max temp a scaled furnace + small endo fire can warm you to in winter NOTE: If a heat source's warming temp is less than the temperature that the other nearby heat sources can warm you to, or if a cooling temp is greater than this temperature, IGNORE it. For example, a thermal stone has a "heat" of 60 degrees. If other nearby heat sources can warm you past 60 degrees, the thermal stone does nothing. if warmingtemp > self.current then self.delta = self.delta + warmingtemp - self.current end if coolingtemp < self.current then self.delta = self.delta + coolingtemp - self.current end WETNESS is actually pretty straightforward??? When the player is wet, self.delta is decreased by up to 30 based on the wetness level. It's just the percentage of your wetness as a decimal multiplied by -30. So 100 wetness is -30 and 50 wetness is -15. When there aren't any heat sources nearby, this effectively decreases the world temp for the player by (up to) 30 degrees. The heatfactor (the decimal value reducing the effectiveness of the heat source) is multiplied by 0.75 if the heat source player is wet. So if a wet player is 4 units away from a heat source, the heatfactor is 0.63. Thank you for correction hornet. local heatfactor = 1 - self.inst:GetDistanceSqToInst(v) / ZERO_DISTSQ heatfactor = 1 - 16/100 --4 unit distance heatfactor = 0.84 * 0.75 --wetness penalty heatfactor = 0.63 OTHER NOTES for the 3 people that made it to the end of this in one piece... Ambient temp and world temp are the same thing and I used them interchangeably I said "player temp" but what would be more accurate is "player or thermal stone temp". Thermal stone's internal temperature works exactly like a player's. And this can be used to calculate how high heat source(s) raise a thermal stone's temperature as well. The only difference is that thermal stones can NOT warm other thermal stones for obvious reasons. So ignore those heat sources when calculating a thermal stone's temperature. @Hornete is evil but thanks for explaining things to me even through your 3+ mental breakdowns If you actually find this useful or are curious about it for some reason feel free to ask any questions here or on the discord Definitely good that I'm making this into a seperate post instead of a giant spoiler on my winter warmth strat post
  17. All the ways to cool water: Surely these are not all the ways, and I must have missed something. Can you tell me...
  18. Grim, the's Guide on how to summon and kill the celestial champion: Finding the Celestial Orb: 1. Wait for meteor showers. 2. Is there a smooth lunar boulder? Congrats, you got it! 3. There isn't? Send another offering to your Lord and savior RNGesus and wait for the next shower. Getting the Celestial Tribute: 1. I'm too lazy to explain pearl, but get her to level 10. She'll give you the Pearl's Pearl.The gist is she whines and you do what she wants. 2. Socket the pearl into Crab King with 8 other gems, and kill him. 3. Again, I'm lazy, go watch Lahknish's video on it. I don't want to double the length of this guide by explaining the lengths required to get this thing. Link to the video below. {https://youtu.be/M-Kko5z05N0} 4. Haul that altar back to the lunar isles. Getting the Celestial Altar: 1. Sail to the lunar island, and enter the rock biome. There should be three "Inviting formations". They're a three-piece altar, and should be assembled in this order, top to bottom: Idol Orb Base Getting the Celestial Sanctum: 1. Go to the ruins, and build a starcaller's staff. 2. Find the Moon Stone. It's in the forest near MacTusk. Repair it with moonrock nuggets. 3. On a full moon, insert the star caller's staff and start the event. 4. It'll be attacked by werepigs and hounds, so defend it. (or cheese with statues. If you're a real chad, cheese with waxed giant garlic. You do you.) 5. Deconstruct your newly-acquired moon caller's staff, and take the iridescent gem. 6. Enter the caves, and past the blue mush biomes, you'll find the lunar grotto. Ignore everything there- they're not important for our goals. 7. Past that, you'll find a cave bridge, but blocked with boulders. Make your way through. 8. Gonna redirect you to another video, on how to get the blueprint for the Astral Detector, this one by Jazzy's Games. {https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11L-V1RCn_o} Getting the mysterious energy: 1. Place the Celestial Tribute, Celestial Altar, and Celestial Sanctum in a triangular formation on the lunar island. Make sure they are not too close together, and there's nothing inbetween them. If either of these conditions are not fufilled, the mysterious energy will not spawn. Starting the fight: 1. Build mysterious energy 2. Check the map. There's a moonstorm on the mainland 3. Find Wagstaff, he gives you the blueprints for astroggles and an incomplete experiment. 4. Help him by giving him tools when he asks, and fend off the birds. Collect 3 restrained static. 5. Lighting hits the ground sometimes, mine the blue stuff left and bundle it. 6. Do the same with the floating orb things. 7. Sail to lunar and place the incomplete experiment on the mysterious energy. 8. Let the fight commence. The fight: For the third and last time, I'll redirect you to www dot youtube dot com, for the fight.
  19. The best way to get energy: Or the other 18 ways
  20. I've been on a journey to reduce build complexity and increase heat economy. Saw this idea kicking around a while ago and finally got around to implementing it. I'm pleased with the way it works and want to share to help beginning and intermediate players. This build uses a copper ore aquatuner to cool electrolyzed oxygen fed from a cool steam vent. No steam turbine. It is simple to build with basic tech. I set it up around cycle 70 and am still using it on cycle 302 with no intentions to change. It supports 9 dupes. The build I have a copper ore aquatuner sitting in about 20kg per tile of water and polluted water. Automation turns it on when the bath water is below 90°C and cooling is needed (coolant above 18°C). Hot water at about 70°C from cool steam vents goes through the bath in copper radiant pipes drawing heat out and goes directly into the gold amalgam electrolyzer. Feeding hot water into an electrolyzer destroys heat. Hot oxygen falls into the base across copper radiant pipes which rapidly cools the gas. The coolant then goes around the perimeter of my base - a nice clean method of keeping places temperature controlled. Here's how the base looks at cycle 302. I added a second electrolyzer and replaced the bath water with oil but haven't modified the design or changed settings. Build Plan: Enclose as much of your base as you are able with insulated tiles and the interior normal tiles. This will help make the build more efficient and can be built as you go. Make a bath for the aquatuner (2h x 5w works fine). Use bottle emptiers to put a 20-100kg layer of polluted water then another 20-100kg layer of water. That's 20-100 kg per tile, resulting 100 to 500 kg total of each liquid. Any two liquids that can tolerate 100°C temperatures will work. Petroleum and crude oil are better choices, but not at all necessary. A single liquid is fine too, just takes more of it to make two tiles high. Set up the plumbing and automation. Wire a thermo sensor and liquid pipe thermo sensor through an AND gate to the aquatuner. Set the thermo sensor to about 10 degrees C below the flash point of your liquids. Don't set it higher than 90-ish or you risk boiling the electrolyzer feed water and breaking pipes. (see where one of my pipes has damage? lesson learned) Make your electrolyzer hat. Plumb the electrolyzer water through the bath in copper pipes, then insulated pipes to the gold amalgam electrolyzer. Use gold amalgam for the hydrogen pump. Use mesh tiles and a pneumatic door to restrict dupes from going up into the hat. I caught them idling in 70° oxygen once 'cause dupes want to hurt themselves. Copper radiant pipes between the hat and base will easily cool the hot oxygen before it falls into your base. Easy cool steam vent taming: Leave a few layers of natural tiles around the vent. Natural tiles have much more mass and will absorb a lot more heat from the vent. Surround the natural tiles with insulated tiles for good measure. Put some tempshift plates (granite is fine) around the vent and a few touching the natural tiles to help heat move in to them. Build a gold amalgam liquid pump in the collecting pool and plumb it straight to the machine. A note about power economy: The build will supply about half the hydrogen power needed to run the system in the beginning when everything is full on. Once the temperature settles down this build will be self-powering. I'm supplying 45°C water to the bath, which goes into the electrolyzer at 65°C. Warmer supply water will decrease the efficiency, but I think this build is self powered all the way up to maximum operating temperature. I don't know when they added this feature, but you can see the uptime of many buildings in the properties tab of its info card. The AT uptime is 14% over the last 5 cycles. Over the last 5 cycles the whole build has drawn 1,846,800 joules and created 2,607,360 joules worth of hydrogen. Here's the math Draw Qty Power (watts) Uptime Time (s) Draw (joules) Hydrogen produced (g) Aquatuner 1 -1,200 14% 3,000 -504,000 Electrolyzer 2 -120 49% 3,000 -349,200 325,920 Hydrogen Pump 1 -240 18% 3,000 -129,600 Atmo suit Pump 2 -240 60% 3,000 -864,000 Production Hydrogen (g/s) Power (w) Potential Generation (w) Coverage Hydrogen Generator -100 800 2,607,360 141,2%
  21. Sensation! I put together a circuit for getting water infinitely: I haven't figured out how it works yet, but no matter how much water Nicolas pumps out, it doesn't run out. I carefully tested this circuit for 1000 cycles. It works! For those who don't like this cheat scheme, I have 10 ways to get water.