KimonoBoxFox

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About KimonoBoxFox

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  1. Not exactly. Ten one-time use traps can be used on ten separate rabbits. One ten-use trap has to be replaced manually ten times. If anything, I'd prefer a recipe for traps that yielded like the former. Oh well. When I mention seasons, I reflect what I'm going to be doing based on my environment. In Winter, I'm not going to travel far from my base due to cold and long nights being added to my list of hazards--thus my rabbit harvest season would be in the summer (assuming I bothered harvesting them). As for chests, that's more of a personal preference than anything--keeps all the items in one spot, and safe from burning.Your statement kind of corroborates what I'm complaining about--Rabbits aren't worth the trouble. Spiders are much more convenient, because you can determine 'where' you want them to spawn from, by placing their egg sacks--so you don't have to travel far from home to get food. Also, you can semi-automate their harvesting using pig houses to spawn pigs. While the pigs 'do' at times eat monster meat, between fights, spiders still drop silk and glands, which don't degrade or get eaten lying around on the ground, and any meat you need can be harvested manually by simply picking it up between pig fights, before the pigs react. Heck, you can even get a meat or skin occasionally from one of the fallen piggies, if you get lucky. And of course, splatting spiders is karmatically 'OK' on the Naughtymeter. The one drawback to this would be werepigs, occasionally, if your farm is near your home. Still not a big offset toward getting enough purple flesh to feed your bird's face. In short, spiders need bigger threats (nest taking over trees/structures/your base, different enemy threats?) and/or more mercurial rewards (less frequent meat, or just make birds not tolerate monster meat items--preserving their health penalty?), and rabbits need to yield a bit more meat for the extra effort invested in catching them.
  2. Alright, while I admit I missed the point about the old AI, I'll "necrobump" whatever I please in the interest of a meaningful discussion along the lines of the thread topic. Nothing's sacred until the topic's locked.My one complaint with traps is that they aren't inventory-friendly, since they don't stack. The hypothetical situation where I'd use them would involve stashing a ton in several chests, built on a prairie, for seasonal usage... it's awfully complicated for so little reward, versus just boomeranging the daggone varmints. Especially now that Krampus is pretty... underwhelming.However, this brings me to a separate, but related issue: I feel like rabbits are possibly too much trouble for what they put out, compared to spiders, simply because spiders come to you instead of fleeing. The fact that rabbit meat doesn't deal damage just isn't enough to set them above mobs as a food source, particularly considering that a birdcage effectively filters out the poisonous effects of monster meat. It just takes a lot of trouble and resources to catch bunnies, when I could whack a ton of spiders one by one, heal myself with their glands, and just stuff the meat down a Snowbird's mouth for eggs.
  3. Only, cooked green mushrooms work fine for sanity. There's Taffy, and Pumpkin Cookies, of course. I personally view Crock-pot as a short-term answer to dealing with excess stored ingredients; mainly because it's time consuming to pick out all the ingredients for every single item I want cooked, were I to want to spam stacks of something. When I need hunger, there's stuffing a ton of monster jerky into a caged bird for eggs to cook, and when I need health there's glands, salve, butterfly wings and jerky.Were I to complain about anything, it's simply that the interface for cooking is awkward. It might not be realistic to be able to cue multiple items to cook, but it'd certainly make the Crock Pot something I'd use more frequently--either that, or shorten cooking times for items to make it less wasteful to sit around micromanaging what I'm fixing. It's just not worth it to waste half a day putting together enough fish sticks and pierogi to stockpile for winter.
  4. Try setting traps down en-masse over a prairie full of rabbit holes. One single trap isn't worth the wait versus a boomerang, but the virtue of making several is that you can plop them down any old time, and come back later.Also try these on spiders and frogs! They'll make your experience a lot more pain-free! You don't even 'need' to bait the trap, just position it cleverly!
  5. Wendy, huh? I'm a Wickerbottom man myself. Having Science Machine recipes on the fly is nice--particularly considering that Healing Salve is one.
  6. Better yet: avoid areas where you've allowed queens to appear, wait for them to move away from the old nest area and turn into new tier 1 nests (a couple days time, left unmolested), then collect the tier 3 nests when they mature.Move your egg sacks to an easily farm-able location, well spread out and away from other objects of importance (camp, food sources, trees for wood), then just break the nest whenever it reaches tier 3, and replace it. Repeat the above, if a queen appears, dealing with the new nests as appropriate for their location. You'll never need to deal with Spider Queens, this way.
  7. They still appear from Spider queens and evicted nests you've aggro'd Warriors from, though. It's still good to know how to deal with them properly.Moreover, if a feature is getting avoided entirely, it's going to get adjusted at some point so that it can't be, or removed altogether. We're either going to deal with Jumpy soon, or he's going to get replaced with something else. Regular spiders need the backup to pose a threat to experienced players.
  8. Hadn't thought about using traps, but then I'm never fond of those things. Guess they're a good way to ensure a damage-free raid, but I always thought that was why spiders dropped glands.One thing I'm learning though, is to avoid working in an area with queens close by--especially when there's more than one. They especially like to home in on Chester and try to murder him with a horde of lesser spiders, even if you don't bother them directly--it's really disruptive. Try to farm your tier 3 nests, and remove/replace them, before she appears, or else you may be interrupted by her nosiness!On the flip side, kiting into a queen is just the thing when you have a big hound attack coming... those poor things can't handle queenie and her kids at all!
  9. Keep in mind also, when this thread started. They've been through a couple nerfs and bugs since then. But yeah, the only truly absurd thing about Spider Warriors is accidentally spawning 3+ from multiple directions, then having to run for your life. Even I occasionally die to that now and again... just encourages you to be more careful and sneakeh.It'll be nice when they get fixed. The problem with Dusk/Night attacks is when your goal is explicitly to farm the spiders (the more profitable action), rather than break the nests. Because multiple spiders pop out and wander, you're much more likely to draw overwhelming numbers into aggro, and it eats time to try and kite them all, when you could manage one nest, three spiders at a time, and quickly kill them all off by stepping on the webbing to trigger a small, kite-able search party.Moreover, fighting at night mandates either firelight or a torch held in hand. Now, if you were to tell me you preferred it simply for ridding yourself of the things, I'd accept that... they sure aren't very smart about protecting their nests. Of course, when I do this, I usually rely on my pigmen as a distraction, rather than wait for night... and I mainly only do it to remove tier 3 nests, when I'm ready to put away my spider farm for the year. I occasionally do this when maintenance is required, and I don't want the hostile spiders distracting me at dusk, or when I feel the spider nest placements are too close together... Or when a queen lays a new nest too close to another, so I can let it mature, while farming it, then get it out of the way as well.
  10. I leave Spider Queens alone altogether--their heads always decay too fast for practical use, and they just make another level 1 nest when left alone anyway--easy enough to deal with.It seems like the End is Nigh update has nerfed the jumping attack of Spider Warriors into nonexistance, which is kind of disappointing.My sig is actually a spoof of the lines from Bioshock Infinite's opening, which is in turn based on the Dayenu Passover song. If anything, I feel like the birdcage needs further nerfing, to limit what the bird will accept in return for laying eggs... I can continuously preserve my food supply with them, just by forcefeeding them spoiled eggs over and over to get new ones.
  11. You're very much welcome for the Threadcromancy. Having served your demonic purpose, you may now return to the forum hell from whence you came. I'm going to go eat tacos with **** now, peace. ^^ The first thing I learned not to do, when dealing with spider's nests. Not a nest is touched before it passes the "I step on the web nothing comes out" test. XD
  12. I spot a single spider, strayed away from the nest at night?Torch out, six whaps. Bop, bop, bop. Bop, bop, bop.D E D. DEAD.But yeah, Warriors are a different story. You have to be more elusive, and bring a bigger stick. I don't fight those at night. I usually only bother fighting them at all when I feel time is an issue, and killing them would be more advantageous than 'rerolling' spiders (like when there's a lot of meat on the ground already that I don't want eaten).
  13. Alright, on the topic of Spider Warriors, Spider Economy, and Dealing With Nests... Being a man who plays Half-Life, I quickly recognize the headcrab-esque leaping pattern, and adopt my Gordon Freeman strategy: Screw endurance competitions with the jumpy ones. Battle no more than 2 Spider Warriors at a time. Use your ASWD keys, rather than your mouse--Move in a STRONG circular pattern, about two pigs distance away from the spider, then attack it as it finishes its jump, which should miss, presuming you moved correctly. Do not try to run 'away', so much as run 'sideways'. A walking staff or road will help you amazingly with your dodging. If there are a large number of lesser spiders, kite the hunter to jump ahead of the group, and attack it a couple times when it misses, keeping in mind that they can still melee, and make the same attack expression to do so. If a Warrior is accompanied by one or two lesser spiders, instead of focusing on the Warrior first, dodge it, and smack the lesser spiders to death one at a time. You only need to get in one hit with impunity, to stun the spider, then repeat the process--don't get greedy. Once the lesser spiders are cut down, repeat your dodging maneuvers. When you have separated a warrior, either via kiting, or due to infighting between the spiders and other mobs (usually pigs), kill the hunter by focusing in three to four repeated attacks, either before it aggros you, or after a dodge. You will need about six spear hits to kill one hunter, so you 'will' need to dodge at least one melee attack. Thankfully, hunters prefer to melee when you're close up, so you shouldn't need to worry about getting jumped at after a successful strike. When you have provoked 2 or more warriors from a nest, keep in mind this useful fact: spiders 'despawn' when they return to their nest, which means that spider nests don't TRACK the number of warriors that have returned to them, and will sometimes replace them with normal spiders. You can keep 'rerolling' spiders, until a safer number of warriors (none is always my favorite number) spawns, and pick off spiders one by one, until their numbers dwindle. Spider count in a nest only increases a couple times a day, so with vigilance, you can deplete a spider nest and collect it. There is little reward to fighting warriors, beyond immediately removing them from a battle, so don't pick fights with them that you can avoid. When you deal with spider groups containing no warriors, the best move is just to let their numbers dwindle, pick them out in small groups of three or less, and hit the front member of the group once, then run, let the rest strike, and repeat. Two tentacle spike hits, three spear hits, or six torch bops will kill a normal spider. And you don't have to lay them all down in one strike. Don't burn spider nests--huge waste of resources. You're better off just letting them mature to Queen stage, then letting the Queen move on--it typically downgrades the nest from a single 3 to one or two 1's. Queens are not particularly aggressive, and there's little profit to fighting them (but plenty in letting them spread their nests). What you DO want to do is MOVE the nests. The biggest inconvenience to a player is multiple spider nests clustered close together. This is because hitting one spider near any particular nest summons the majority of it's denizens in one big wave--INCLUDING those from other nests. A single nest on its own is MUCH easier to deplete and harvest. If you absolutely feel the need to burn a nest, burn a nest that is close (but not within burning distance) of at least two other nests, in order to more easily separate the rest. Finally, kite spiders a GOOD distance away from nests, before you strike them. This prevents massive swarms, allowing you to usually deal with only 3 regular spiders at any given time. All you need to do is step on the creep, and let the group hiss at you before running off of it. Spiders are highly profitable. This is because they die quickly, and drop Spider Gland, which repletes your health from combat with them, as well as easy meat and ever-needed silk. Simply avoid living too near spider nests (a short walk away is fine), and farm them during the daytime, when they retreat to sleep in their nests. If you build four or more pigmen houses in the creep of the nest, you can even find glands and silk just lying around from the pigs' inevitable combat sessions. Hell, you can even pick out stragglers while the pigs make a meal of themselves. You are only limited by your imagination here--get exploitative!