Friendly Grass

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About Friendly Grass


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  1. I was wondering why the dapper vest didn’t work. I was at level 9 about to get pearl’s pearl
  2. I think of “Them” as an ultimate power/knowledge/energy that can manifest in different entities and possibly corrupt them. First the fuel corrupted the ancients and Metheus. The gnaw? And currently the moon. The “Metheus is here” could suggest that Metheus has now fused into this all-consuming energy. So I would argue that They aren’t the moon itself but instead a power that has manifested in the moon. Not that I at all know what I’m talking about.
  3. Oh, very strange. I did whip this up fast, but I can’t believe I made so many errors. Well, thanks for the corrections ... Ice and twigs aren’t free, and they have other uses. It should be about being efficient with the ingredients you have on hand. And also to scold bad cooking because I see people on pubs use farm veggies to make meatballs. And I’m also debunking the argument that meatballs are versatile. Okay but how often do you come across red caps and bother picking and saving them? You can pick lots of other things for free, too. Oh, you didn’t say anything about a “starter” food before :P Sure, I might make the occasional meatball during the first winter. And in multiplayer I make them more.
  4. So you’re agreeing that meatballs is only efficient with ice? Why the hell do you have red caps on you? How is “total stat gain” useful? Aren’t you supposed to use multiple different scenarios and calculate percent gain? Meatball hunger gain Meaty stew hunger gain *Note: I assumed the form (cooked or raw) that has the highest hunger value. Also, I don’t understand the argument that meaty stew “is more niche” or “less versatile”. There are many different combinations you can do, I almost always find meaty stew ingredients passively in my fridge, and now with leafy meat, big meat isn’t even required. However, big meat is extremely accessible, you get it passively from killing useful mobs, and it’s incredibly fast and reliable to farm via werepigs and volt goats. In multiplayer meaty stew can often be less readily available for sure, and that’s when you turn to farming! One person would need to gather 252 ice every winter to live off of meatballs.
  5. Oh one thing. No matter WHAT tendency you choose, PLEASE don’t ever use a war saddle for general purpose riding!!! It’s slower than the default saddle. And you can switch between saddles really easily. So if you want you can keep the war saddle on you and switch to it when you want extra damage.
  6. Mounted beefalo attack speed is every 0.5 seconds. Player attack speed is either 0.4333 or 0.4666 seconds (often switching between them) depending on player tick rate. I heard someone made a guide for it or something
  7. Obviously the rider should not be used for combat other than maybe the occasional stray batilisk/hound/whatever. It's about 15% faster which might seem small on paper but that's 15% faster than an already incredibly fast speed. And, it doesn't have the ornery downside. A large portion of this game is walking and speed is huge. Yes, unmounted beefalo can be fairly fragile and even suicidal, but it is much easier to control them with the bell now. I think you should just try out a beefalo and see if you like it. They might not be for you, and that's okay. Wait, how did the conversation get here again?
  8. Rider + glossamer is equivalent to a 106.67% base player speed boost. Cane + mag is 50%, add on a road and it’s 95%. Ornery + war saddle does 66 damage. But it does attack 7-15% slower (normal player attack speed is inconsistent). So assuming an average [edit: normal player attack speed] attack speed of .45 seconds, it’s dps is equivalent to a 16 second old hambat. With a war saddle it’s 46% faster than a base player speed. With glossamer it’s equivalent to an 81% speed boost and it just breaks the 50 damage threshold. It will need to be fed 1 item just about every time you mount it unless you mount multiple times within less than a minute or so. Default is rider but it’s 14.3% speed boost is substituted for a 36% damage boost. Or ornery without it’s downside but requires a war saddle to break the 50 damage threshold. You don’t need a saddlehorn to swap saddles btw. I think they’re fairly well balanced and it depends a lot on playstyle and preference.
  9. For sure. You just need a snowball every 4 seconds or less to break even. Yeah I know what you mean. But they don’t poop while you’re riding nor when hitched. So when you’re not riding just keep em hitched to a grooming station when possible. Almost all characters synergize well enough with a rider beefalo, and don’t underestimate the power of the rider beefalo. Warly’s issue can be mitigated with an insulated pack. Wormwood can still get speed until taming a beefalo (maybe do it later for him?) and needing to dismount to plant seeds doesn’t mean much imo. I don’t agree with this mindset tbh. I have the opposite perspective, you get an opportunity to stray from the pedestrian meta you‘ve been using for all time. Wendy’s damage bonus is definitely working as intended. It’s a mechanic that she loses her modifier for being physically weak just like Wes. And it’s a mechanic that Abigail makes Wendy do 54% more damage when she’s fighting alongside her. And it’s really not overpowered imo. If you want Wolfgang dps, play Wolfgang. The lantern light diminishing does annoy me a little bit, but it’s not like mousse where you get just a faint flicker of light right before it runs out. I *generally* keep both a lantern and miners hat on me so I can use what’s most convenient for the situation, because also if I don’t keep lightbulbs on me just 1 isn’t enough. And magi is amazing, yes. You can also keep light bulbs in an insulated pack for them to last a while! Yes I didn’t elaborate but that’s what I was thinking about beefalo. The seconds of staying warm per second spent warming up was because I value being able to ignore freezing for longer periods of time, and I like how straightforward it is for insulation.
  10. If I don’t feel the need for a backpack in spring I’ll often use a raincoat which has all the perks of the eyebrella, allows you to keep your head slot free, has 60 insulation which is usually just enough to get you through the first couple spring nights where world temp is low, I can wear a tam while it’s raining, I get wetness and lightning protection while I’m fighting, lightning protection especially helpful for fighting moose goose, it has 10 days of durability instead of 9 so you can repair it at exactly 50%, and I can swap it with a mag/belt of hunger/whatever when it’s not raining. So convenient and reliable, and totally worth it. I also mostly main Wes now and with his low max sanity and increased sanity drain I want sanity clothing at all times if I don’t wanna go insane. So being able to wear the tam while it’s raining is huge.
  11. I could be interested in a summer guide, most of the mechanics in winter apply to summer but summer also has very underrated cooling items like luxury fans and chilled amulets. Just looked in the code for how the flingo cooling works. It's very interesting. A snowball completely bypasses the normal 1 degree per second warming/cooling and instantly cools players/thermals by 5 degrees no matter their temperature. I totally agree this is a good strat, especially early/mid game, because it covers all situations. You get the duration of the beefalo hat with the perks of the thermal stone. My personal favorite way to counter the downsides of the beefalo hat though is riding a beefalo! You can hold a lantern at night without losing walking cane speed, and you don't need to worry about armor as much.
  12. Here I will walk through the code and explain how to calculate the exact temperature any combination of any number of heating and/or cooling sources, on the ground or in your inventory, at any distance, wet or dry, in any world ambient temperature, etc, can warm players and/or thermal stones. So first, it's important to understand the "" variable in the temperature.lua script. It's calculated every frame and can be almost any number. It starts as the ambient temperature subtracted by the player temp with possibly a couple other modifiers, and then the game goes through every single nearby heat source and cooling source within a 10 unit (2.5 tile) radius and each of these add or subtract to the It will often end up with some crazy number but more or less all that matters to the game at the moment is if it's positive or negative. The delta mostly just determines whether the player will be warmed, cooled, or stay about the same temperature. But I've figured out an easy way to use it to calculate how much the nearby heat sources can warm/cool the player to, too. Before nearby heat sources are calculated or when there aren't any, this is what is: = ambient_temperature + self.totalmodifiers + self:GetMoisturePenalty() - self.current Unless you're wet or under the effect of fire nettles, you can ignore self.totalmodifiers and self:GetMoisturePenalty() to simplify it to just the ambient temperature minus the player temperature. With fire nettles, add 60. I'm doing a simple example in winter. Let's say ambient temp is -20 degrees and the player's temperature is currently 0 degrees. = -20 + 0 + 0 - 0 = -20 Every warming and cooling source has a "heat" in the code. You can also find them on the wiki pages for freezing and overheating or asking me. I'm using the scaled furnace which has a "heat" of 115 degrees. local heat = v.components.heater:GetHeat() --Get the heat of the heat source heat = 115 Next, heatfactor is calculated based on the distance to the center of the heat source. A player standing right next to a scaled furnace is 1 unit (wall unit) away from it's center. This distance is squared so if you were 2 units away the DistanceSquared would be 4. But 1 squared is still 1. local heatfactor = 1 - DistanceSquared_To_Player / 100 heatfactor = 1 - 1 / 100 heatfactor = 0.99 Next the heatfactor is multiplied by the heat of the heat source. In this case the heatfactor only reduces the heat by 1% but if you were, say, 7 units away it would be a 49% reduction. local warmingtemp = heat * heatfactor --multiply the heat factor and the heat warmingtemp = 115 * 0.99 warmingtemp = 113.85 Things are slightly different with a cooling source, however, because it has to be based around the overheat temperature of 70 degrees. This doesn't have to be done with warming because the freezing temp is 0 degrees. local coolingtemp = (heat - self.overheattemp) * heatfactor + self.overheattemp --selfoverheattemp = 70 Back to the scaled furnace. The warmingtemp of 113.85 is definitely higher than the player temperature of 10 degrees so this next "if" statement is passed. Of course with a coolingtemp, it has to be less than the player temp. if warmingtemp > self.current then --If the warming temperature is higher than the current player temperature, do this -- 113.85 > 0 -- Endothermic heat sources if coolingtemp < self.current then But now is being warmed by warmingtemp subtracted again by self.current. Thermal stones in your inventory also have a 2.1x multiplier, and scorching sunfish a 2x multiplier to (warmingtemp - currenttemp) in the form of carriedmult. But for a scaled furnace, we ignore this value. And the formula is the exact same for a coolingtemp, by the way. = + (warmingtemp - self.current) * carriedmult --carriedmult only for heat sources in your inventory, ignore it otherwise = -20 + (113.85 - 0) = 93.85 So with just 1 scaled furnace nearby, is 93.85 degrees. Obviously a scaled furnace can't warm you that high during winter. So what we have to do is divide it by 2. That's because the player temperature is actually being subtracted from twice in total; once in the beginning calculation and once subtracted from the scaled furnace's warmingtemp here. With a second valid heat source, we'd divide by 3. 93.85 / 2 = 46.93 degrees But what if there was also say, a level 1 (small) endothermic fire nearby? It has a heat of -10 degrees. It's 3 units away from the player so the heatfactor would look like this: local heatfactor = 1 - DistanceSquared_To_Player / 100 heatfactor = 1 - 9 / 100 heatfactor = 0.91 This heatfactor is used to calculate the coolingtemp like so. local coolingtemp = (heat - self.overheattemp) * heatfactor + self.overheattemp coolingtemp = (-10 - 70) * 0.91 + 70 coolingtemp = -2.8 And this is added to along with the players temperature being starts equal to 83.85 because of the scaled furnace starts equal to 93.85 because of the scaled furnace = + coolingtemp - self.current = 93.85 + (-2.8 - 0) = 91.05 The delta only decreased by like 2 degrees, but that's misleading. Now, the player is only warmed to about 30 degrees instead of 47. For every additional valid heat source, increase the number you're dividing by, by 1. For thermal stones and scorching sunfish in your inventory, this number is actually instead increased by 2.1 and 2 respectively. So with a scaled furnace + thermal in inventory, you'd divide the by 3.1. 91.05 / 3 = 30.35 --max temp a scaled furnace + small endo fire can warm you to in winter NOTE: If a heat source's warming temp is less than the temperature that the other nearby heat sources can warm you to, or if a cooling temp is greater than this temperature, IGNORE it. For example, a thermal stone has a "heat" of 60 degrees. If other nearby heat sources can warm you past 60 degrees, the thermal stone does nothing. if warmingtemp > self.current then = + warmingtemp - self.current end if coolingtemp < self.current then = + coolingtemp - self.current end WETNESS is actually pretty straightforward??? When the player is wet, is decreased by up to 30 based on the wetness level. It's just the percentage of your wetness as a decimal multiplied by -30. So 100 wetness is -30 and 50 wetness is -15. When there aren't any heat sources nearby, this effectively decreases the world temp for the player by (up to) 30 degrees. The heatfactor (the decimal value reducing the effectiveness of the heat source) is multiplied by 0.75 if the heat source player is wet. So if a wet player is 4 units away from a heat source, the heatfactor is 0.63. Thank you for correction hornet. local heatfactor = 1 - self.inst:GetDistanceSqToInst(v) / ZERO_DISTSQ heatfactor = 1 - 16/100 --4 unit distance heatfactor = 0.84 * 0.75 --wetness penalty heatfactor = 0.63 OTHER NOTES for the 3 people that made it to the end of this in one piece... Ambient temp and world temp are the same thing and I used them interchangeably I said "player temp" but what would be more accurate is "player or thermal stone temp". Thermal stone's internal temperature works exactly like a player's. And this can be used to calculate how high heat source(s) raise a thermal stone's temperature as well. The only difference is that thermal stones can NOT warm other thermal stones for obvious reasons. So ignore those heat sources when calculating a thermal stone's temperature. @Hornete is evil but thanks for explaining things to me even through your 3+ mental breakdowns If you actually find this useful or are curious about it for some reason feel free to ask any questions here or on the discord Definitely good that I'm making this into a seperate post instead of a giant spoiler on my winter warmth strat post
  13. Yeah switching is great for sure. And that’s the main downside of insulation. But in return, you do get a much more straightforward and reliable heat source. BUT, using fire nettles + insulation are an option that I wanna try and I just remembered about. Because that also provides an instant effect. Furnaces are still an expensive thing to craft en masse. And you can also craft tin fishin bins with sunfish on boats. Sunfish take 2 days (insulated pack, winter) to turn spoiled red. With a 4 furnace station, thermal stones run out in 7.5 minutes. Sorry for continuing this meaningless winter warmth efficiency argument. I can’t help myself :/
  14. This logic makes no sense to me. Insulated clothes can also be all you need for survival, what’s the point in using thermal stones? Just wearing a beefalo hat gives you a straightforward conversation rate of 9 seconds of warmth for every 1 second you warm up, lasting up to 10.5 minutes. The Thermal stones have to be charged up to their max temperature at the perfect time with the perfect heat source, and even then they don’t last long. I just personally find them egregiously annoying.