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About Steve8

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  1. Can confirm that stray packets of other gasses can mess things up. I used to have my chlorine room accessed with a horizontal door from the top. Which works most of the time. But if people go into it a lot, packets of other stuff get in. CO2 can be created just by dupes breathing. So it's best to just have a water lock
  2. You could automate turning the rust into iron and and vent the chlorine and possibly oxygen into space if you don't need it. Early game I find the rust deoxidizer pretty useful. It's labor intensive and not as efficient as electrolyzing water, but it provides oxygen for little power. The chlorine can be eaten by a few salt vines at that point. Two wheezeworts seem to be enough to cool keep things relatively cool
  3. Cool liquid

    If you have an AETN you can use the excess hydrogen from your SPOM to run it and get a considerable amount of cooling. Enough for a decent amount of cool oxygen or a core base cooling loop. You can get 0°C oxygen out of it. It will struggle if you demand too much of it, but you can do quite a bit with it for negligible resources. An aquatuner certainly provides more cooling and can also easily deal with any heavy industry, but earlier on you don't have the power or materials for it.
  4. Check their melting point. Not that surprising
  5. They also allow you to send a cargo module to the first two asteroids. But that doesn't seem necessary unless you really want some early Fullerene, Isoresin or Niobium. Still, if you absolutely need some supercoolant right now it could be nice
  6. It's too bad that you can't rearrange priorities. Even by default dupes should eat the higher quality food first and leave the worse ones for when the better stuff runs out
  7. The water sieve used to output at a constant temperature. So you could feed it hot water and get cold water. Thankfully that is no longer the case.
  8. You'll need to rip out much of that. The gas pipes in the aquatuner chamber. The metal tiles. And the heavy joint plates. As you can see in the picture, your joint plates break the insulation. They have a pretty good thermal conductivity if you check their stats. So they leak a lot of heat to the outside. Leave the heavy watt wire outside and use transformers to conductive wire. Conductive wire carries 2kW The turbine needs to be directly above the aquatuner chamber. The water in the aquatuner chamber gets turned to steam because it absorbs the heat in the liquid pipe running through it. The turbine sucks in that steam. You can then have various options with that cooling loop. If you want to cool a room you you can use the loop directly and snake a radiant pipe through it. If you want to cool a gas you can cool down another box of polluted water and run radiant gas pipes through it. You can also do both in one design. Watch this video: The SPOM chamber itself can stay kind of hot if you made the machines there out of gold amalgam for the extra overheat threshold. You probably just want to cool the power generators on the left and the oxygen that comes out. The metal tiles are also counter productive. Why do you want to transfer heat to the hydrogen generators?
  9. Last game I wanted to relocate some Pacu eggs to my water tank, so I set the storage bin to collect all of them (not sweep only). And then forgot all about it. Then I wondered why my Pacu population was down to two On the other hand, it's also a good way to get rid of unwanted eggs if you don't want omlettes. Let them decay. Then let the raw egg decay. Then use the egg shell for lime and dispose of the rot pile. Seems inconsistent that "storing" it in a door is treated differently, but something being in a storage bin is a lot easier to detect for the game than the rare occasion of being inside a door
  10. You don't want a thermal connection between the steam chamber and the turbine. The turbine has steam intakes that reach through the ceiling. That's what I'm getting at the whole time. It sucks in the steam through those intakes and returns it as water. But its overheats at 100°C (the temperature it has itself. Not the steam). That's when it shuts down with an error. Unlike other machines it doesn't take damage. As said, sometimes you need to cool down the turbine to prevent that. That way the turbine stays cool, but it can suck in hot steam from below. Just place a turbine somewhere on a floor and the intakes appear. It's maybe a bit confusing graphics-wise.
  11. The aquatuner doesn't cool down the area. It's the opposite. It takes the heat from the liquid run through it and applies it to itself. That heat then gets dumped into the area around it. That's good. You want the steam chamber to be hot so it can evaporate the water to steam. This happens at 100°. Then you need another 25° for the turbine above to kick in. It sucks up the hot steam and dumps it back cooler as water. So you'd want to insulate the steam chamber. No metal tiles. No heavy watt joint plates. This is standard. What you do with the cooled liquid allows some more creativity. I don't quite understand why yours stays so "cool". Probably because your cooling loop actually cools the aquatuner. All the heat put up by the tuner gets immediately absorbed by the pipes. Or something like that. But that's not how things are supposed to work.
  12. Well, that would work too Duh! Then you may really need add back an egg some time. Not a big deal really With my somewhat over-engineered idea you'd convert a little bit algae into dirt. Not sure if that's worth it. The egg shell could be interesting for lime production though! Pacus are probably the best source of egg shell if you are short on that
  13. The last thing was fixed by the patch just released
  14. On a more basic level you just need something like this: The coolant has a temperature sensor connected to the aquatuner. The aquatuner can work if the coolant is above 0°C (-3 can work too, but that's pushing things). If it's shut off the coolant instead moves around it through the bridge. That's because the input of the machine is prioritized otherwise. There are a couple ways to set these up though and I don't quite understand if some are better in certain situations than others. For example the one above runs the cooling loop directly through the aquatuner. There is no intermediate cold chamber. If you just have one loop that's probably better. But in my example you can attach several loops to cool down entire rooms or even the whole base (the picture shows two). You could run oxygen lines through the cold chamber in addition to the liquid ones. You can also have the outside exposed to some area you want to cool with diamond or metal tiles. Also, after some small issues I've encountered I'd probably have two tiles of insulation between the cold and hot chambers. One tiles works, but the aquatuner does heat up the insulation. Especially if there are tempshift plates directly touching it. The latter is something I definitely won't do again. Those are very minor things though and won't prevent it from working. You don't need metal tiles between the steam chamber the turbine above. In fact the turbine stops working if it overheats (so you can make it out of lead!). You may want to cool it in fact. Just running a cooling loop with a few pips of radiant piping by it is enough. Another thing I've noticed: You have a heavy watt wire to supply your aquatuner. That breaks the insulation and leaks heat through it. You can clearly see that in your picture. Instead supply everything with conductive wire from a transformer
  15. I like to just have a CO2 pit below the kitchen The CO2 naturally accumulates there after a while so nothing fancy is needed. Dupes drop the food to the ground after cooking and then an autosweeper drops it below through a mesh door. Meat from the my hatch drowning chamber also gets dropped there. So people only need to dip into it quickly to retrieve food