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About Steve8

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  1. The amount of chlorine doesn't matter at all from what I can tell. Even tiny amounts work. I prefer around 2000 grams though. Then I can also drop slime into the chlorine chamber and it won't gas off I found that a design with multiple tanks helps a lot. It takes a long time to fill them up so there is plenty of time to ranch some dreckos or get oil Or build some temporary buffer reservoirs for a single reservoir design
  2. Water in pipes doesn't interact with the chlorine. So you have to loop back the water into the reservoirs to clean those last one or two packets. If you haven't yet, learn how pipe priorities work. The input of a bridge or valve will have priority. So the water will go through the shutoff when it's open and into the loop when it's closed. And place your germ sensor directly at the output of the reservoir. That way you have less germy water in the pipes (but still a little). The alternative is not to not let germy water out of the reservoir in the first place. That easiest way to do that is with the airlock door trick. Or you have several reservoirs in series, but then they always need to be full and you have a lot of water just sitting around in tanks. The loop back design also works well with full or almost full tanks as that will greatly dilute the incoming water. It's possible to read the reservoir level and connect that and the germ sensor with an AND gate. But it's not always necessary. If anything backs up really depends on the design. The toilets producing excess water doesn't have to cause issues either. Personally I like to to run it through a water sieve and dump the clean water into my main water tank and/or use it to feed bristle blossoms. So it all gets used up.
  3. Even if you place the germ sensor right at the outlet of the tanks, you will have at least one packet sitting in the pipes leading to it that won't get disinfected. There are two ways around that: 1.) Build the last tank on an airlock door. Deactivated tanks won't let out water 2.) Use a shutoff valve and loop back the water into the tanks as long as there are germs in it. When the valve is off water loops back. When it's on it has priority and lets out the water
  4. The travel time between work and the living area also matters. So at the beginning one block is fine. But as you expand they need more
  5. Same thing. You just need a pipe thermo sensor before the aquatuner to turn it off
  6. You need a bypass for the aquatuner instead of just going in and out. That makes sure that the liquid flows even when the aquatuner is turned off and it can also leave an empty pipe segment if done right Putting too much liquid into a loop can also cause stuttering and blocking. Always fill loops with a bridge and maybe remove a bubble or two if it doesn't move properly
  7. I saw something from a Drecko ranch design that could be adapted maybe. The incubator is in a separate room. The eggs are staggered with a timer so you don't have a continuous stream. Then a conveyor element sensor lets one egg through and loops back the rest. With Pufts you probably need more than one conveyor element sensor, but you can use them to detect which egg you are handling currently and sort it accordingly.
  8. Not true. There are several ways to do that. 1.) You can loop back a germy packet into a reservoir until it's cleaned. Keep in mind that a liquid shutoff has priority unless it's closed. In several games I've used a three reservoir design where new water gets into the first reservoir and the mostly cleaned water is looped back into the middle one if it still contains some germs. If there are no germs left the water flows into the shutoff instead. This works great when all reservoirs are full as the incoming water will quickly be diluted in less germy water. 2.) You can base the whole cleaning on timer sensors. Leave the water sitting long enough and you can be sure that it's clean. A single reservoir is enough with that. Cleaning takes less than a cycle. So if you let in water at the beginning of the cycle and out at the end it'll be clean. Could maybe be combined with a loop if you want a fail safe. 3.) You can use the new reservoir automation to regulate the liquid levels between two of them 4.) With enough reservoirs you can only let out water from the last one if the first one is full. This too is partially based on the incoming germs being greatly diluted in the tons of mostly germ-free water Not directly, but you can deactivate a reservoir by building it on an airlock door. Same as with other buildings. A deactivated reservoir won't let out water. Options 3 and 4 use the door "trick". 2 may use it. 1 doesn't Rather than introduce an extra cleaning building an easier solution would be to introduce an automation input for the reservoir to deactivate it
  9. The word "glitch" implies that it's unintended. Like a bug. Stuff like that is a side effect of the way the game implements physics. A lot of that has to do with gasses and liquids being discrete packets that can only move in certain ways and not mix with each other. It's consistent and intended, but could be called an exploit.
  10. There seems to be a general phenomenon where gas drifts downwards to the right. You can really see that with CO2 when it hits a mostly closed off room or area. It seems when the algorithm picks a direction for gas movement somehow prioritizes that direction. For the Drecko stable, you can put in some tiles to limit where the gas can drift Three or four tiles wide works.It should settle eventually. You can build gas pipes through those pits and deconstruct the pipes to get the gas there. You might be able to remove those tiles when you have a layer, but save before you try. No guarantee how that will go You certainly don't need that much hydrogen. That probably messes with the gas flow too
  11. The things I refuse to use are unintuitive mechanics that only exist because of the weird way ONI physics are implemented. Mostly that's infinite liquid and gas storage and bypass pumps. They're also unnecessary. Liquid and gas locks are somewhat related to that in that they also depend on there only being one element per tile, but they aren't such a huge deal. Unlike with other stuff such as element storage the game also doesn't offer any practical alternative. I also won't use things that entirely bypass intended game mechanics. Like that BS with running kWs of power over a small wire. There is nothing fun about that Unfortunately in this forum using exploits is often the only accepted solution to many problems. To the point where other solutions are dismissed. That also makes it unfun and causes me skip certain threads and sometimes take a break from the forum for a while. People simply used hydro sensors or other automation to do that. So they just made it official and easier to use.
  12. Yes, please. Would be useful in ranches where you may want to keep a certain number of eggs inside and only remove the excess. I know there are ways around that - and ones that can result on more critters being produced - but that doesn't mean it shouldn't be possible
  13. The battery on the input side wasn't really my idea. I would remove it and then switch either the shutoff or the transformer depending on the charge on the output side. If there is no battery, but just the lights they should always run.
  14. Again: that's exactly what he doesn't want. The power production is an extra. It's about them running as much as possible, but feeding power into the main grid when it's low Maybe there are other ways to do that, but any solution that results in "dupes stop running when batteries are full" is wrong here
  15. I think I meant using the main batteries on the output side to measure the charge, but either one may work. Also now that I think about it, you can probably also switch the transformer on and off instead of using the switch. They used to lose their charge when you did that, but that fixed a while ago. Doesn't really matter though