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The ULTIMATE Q&A DST


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1 hour ago, Fjedjik said:

I have a question about the Klaus fight. During the fight, the player takes damage from his deers fire and ice spells.

However if you wear insulating clothing or a thermal stone, this can both decrease or increase the amount of damage taken.

However, I feel like if I take less freezing damage because of my insulation, I will take more fire damage.

So my question is, what is the ideal gear/clothing to wear during the fight?

If you are bothered by that damage, then you can either use the pattern 4 hits, evade Klaus's melee attack, 4 more hits, run, and then you should be able to get far enough away for the deer to not even use their magic attacks; or you can keep a chilled amulet in your inventory, switch to it whenever you get too hot; and go near a fire or a dwarf star when you get too cold. In general, I usually go with beefalo hat and some kind of body armor (log suit being the default). An alternative is hibearnation vest and football helmet.

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9 hours ago, GenomeSquirrel said:

Know of any way to keep underground flowers from wilting?

Plant them under lightshaft, that's all you can do. 
Evil flowers on the other hand never wilt. If you need flowers for honey production then use evil flowers. Just plant regular ones and then haunt them.
 

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22 hours ago, MaXaRaYkIn said:

Q: Do Thulecite Walls respawn when Caves Reset?

A: No, they don't.

wrong. They do. There is a bug when they even spawn on already existing walls, so it looks like wall is still there after you break but you have to hammer it again in order to remove it.

Hammering and respawning caves is the second main infinite source of thulecite

My question is: can wild grass get disease from nearby diseased plants?

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16 minutes ago, Majestix said:

If you are bothered by that damage, then you can either use the pattern 4 hits, evade Klaus's melee attack, 4 more hits, run, and then you should be able to get far enough away for the deer to not even use their magic attacks; or you can keep a chilled amulet in your inventory, switch to it whenever you get too hot; and go near a fire or a dwarf star when you get too cold. In general, I usually go with beefalo hat and some kind of body armor (log suit being the default). An alternative is hibearnation vest and football helmet.

I may have to throw in my two cents in here... Though, please feel free to correct me if i'm wrong.

The fire and ice spells' damage is minimal IF you immediately move out of the spell radius to avoid catching fire/freezing. It's Klaus' claws and his deer which deal the most damage here. Though i do acknowledge and applaud the strats with Chilling Amulets and insulation clothes, i certainly do prefer packing a few more heals and focusing more on kiting. Switching out several armor sets, a walking cane and a Ham Bat requires too much reflexes for nobs like me XD

What i would do and suggest is to stay mobile and fully armored with Football Hat and Log Suit with a Walking Cane for both spells, moving away from Klaus to ensure there's still much room to kite his next attacks with a Ham Bat without fear of getting frozen. Getting up to Klaus to get two or three free hits while he channels that lengthy ice blast is also something i employ.

For the second phase, I've noticed the only window you can only attack after he melees after doing a Chomp attack after a spell, and that 2-3 attack window when he charges the ice blast. Keep baiting, be patient, and wait for the right opportunities.

Above all else, positioning is key to this fight, though i don't really get it myself. Just always mind the deer as they can melee you, which may allow Klaus to land more hits on you to fatal effect. Also guide Klaus away from his spells.

8 minutes ago, landromat said:

wrong. They do. There is a bug when they even spawn on already existing walls, so it looks like wall is still there after you break but you have to hammer it again in order to remove it.

Hammering and respawning caves is the second main infinite source of thulecite

My question is: can wild grass get disease from nearby diseased plants?

Yes. 

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2 hours ago, Fjedjik said:

So my question is, what is the ideal gear/clothing to wear during the fight?

You don't need to wear special clothing since the damage from the deer's special attack is minimal as long as you are on constant move when they cast it. I usually go with full armor (Log Suit + Football Helm/Battle Helm) and have healing means in inventory (Healing Salves/Pierogi/Trail Mix)

Here's a video on how to do it like a pro.

29 minutes ago, landromat said:

wrong. They do. There is a bug when they even spawn on already existing walls, so it looks like wall is still there after you break but you have to hammer it again in order to remove it.

Hammering and respawning caves is the second main infinite source of thulecite

I experienced that bug too. But I think it was actually because of world gen. Didn't get to defeat AFW on the world then, only defeated AG. So if there are no spawning mechanincs behind AG's death, then I assume it was because of world gen from the beginning. On the other hand, when I reseted caves, killing AFW, there were no walls respawned where they used to be. The only things respawned were the classical statues, broken Clockworks, items from chests, Splumonkey Pods, Slurpers, items from Cave Holes. There might be more thing that respawned but this is all I can rememeber right now.

If the walls did respawn, they are not in the same spots as they used to be. Didn't look for them that thoroughly tho. But I made sure to clear caves of statues, walls and fenced the Splumonkey Pods.

31 minutes ago, GetNerfedOn said:
39 minutes ago, landromat said:

wrong. They do. There is a bug when they even spawn on already existing walls, so it looks like wall is still there after you break but you have to hammer it again in order to remove it.

Hammering and respawning caves is the second main infinite source of thulecite

My question is: can wild grass get disease from nearby diseased plants?

Yes. 

Seriously? Are you sure? It seems logical that it should spread but I thought the game is not always fond of logic...

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23 minutes ago, MaXaRaYkIn said:

Seriously? Are you sure? It seems logical that it should spread but I thought the game is not always fond of logic...

Yes. As mentioned in the Wiki it does, which is why it is a priority always check for disease and cull diseased plants (this affects . Many are the times i have forgotten about my farms and plants for whatever reason - exploring, hunting Meese, etc. - and come back home to see 2-4 plants beside each other stricken by disease. 

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2 minutes ago, GetNerfedOn said:

Yes. As mentioned in the Wiki it does, which is why it is a priority always check for disease and cull diseased plants (this affects . Many are the times i have forgotten about my farms and plants for whatever reason - exploring, hunting Meese, etc. - and come back home to see 2-4 plants beside each other stricken by disease.

Ok, you made me go to wiki and search it. Here

Quote

After a plant has been replanted by the player, it will have a timer set somewhere between 30-70 days. Once that timer is up, it has a 10% chance to become diseased. If the chance fails, the timer is reset to another value between 30-70 days and the process will repeat itself. If it's successful, the character will comment when harvesting the plants for 4-6 days to warn the player that the plant will become diseased. If it turns fully diseased, it will begin to spread to other nearby replanted crops every 1.5-2.5 days with no warning.

 

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6 minutes ago, GetNerfedOn said:

Ah, sorry. Didn't quite catch the "wild" there.... my bad :D Thanks for clarifying.

so this means setpiece plants like Pig Torch Berry Bushes and Killer Bee Grass fields are immune. I'll take note...

No problem. We are here to learn. Gotta modify the thread xD.

Yup, and the Beery Bushes/Grass Farms from Pigmen Villages.

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2 hours ago, GetNerfedOn said:

I may have to throw in my two cents in here... Though, please feel free to correct me if i'm wrong.

The fire and ice spells' damage is minimal IF you immediately move out of the spell radius to avoid catching fire/freezing. It's Klaus' claws and his deer which deal the most damage here. Though i do acknowledge and applaud the strats with Chilling Amulets and insulation clothes, i certainly do prefer packing a few more heals and focusing more on kiting. Switching out several armor sets, a walking cane and a Ham Bat requires too much reflexes for nobs like me XD

The fire and ice damage can stack up quite a bit if you are taking a long time with Klaus, but if you have enough healing, then they do not generally pose a problem, which is why I had the preamble
 

3 hours ago, Majestix said:

If you are bothered by that damage...

I have done the chilled amulet strategy a few times for fun, but normally I do not try to do anything about that damage. And you should pretty much never be hit by his deer in melee, just watch where you are standing.

However, given that the fight happens in winter (I am ignoring the temporary change to that rule that we have just had), I do not see any reason for armor in both the chest and head slot. The protection does not stack, but splits over the two items, and I do think that insulation clothes in one of these slots will save you more HP. If you struggle with Klaus, then do prepare several copies of the same armor in your inventory, say 4-5 log suits (to be super safe), respectively football helmets. The only exception to that that I can think of is if you are fighting with bone armor. Then I suggest the helmet as a backup option for those few instances when you allow Klaus to hit you with both swipes in quick succession. The main thing is, as you said, to not rush it (until you are comfortable with him). Bait, evade, hit a few times. If you are really patient, it is possible to defeat Klaus without taking any damage of any kind whatsoever.

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2 hours ago, GetNerfedOn said:

What i would do and suggest is to stay mobile and fully armored with Football Hat and Log Suit with a Walking Cane for both spells

2 hours ago, MaXaRaYkIn said:

I usually go with full armor (Log Suit + Football Helm/Battle Helm)

There's no need to wear two armor pieces, armor stacking is a thing only in DS, in DST it doesn't work. You can use bone armor + some helmet for better dps reduction.

 

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4 minutes ago, Maslak said:

There's no need to wear two armor pieces, armor stacking is a thing only in DS, in DST it doesn't work. You can use bone armor + some helmet for better dps reduction.

I've been living a lie up until now. Still, wearing both body and head armor made me feel safer xD

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8 minutes ago, MaXaRaYkIn said:

I've been living a lie up until now. Still, wearing both body and head armor made me feel safer xD

I do this just to conserve Pig Skin xD especially because my laptop can't run caves well. But otherwise i see the point :D thanks for that

I sometimes use an LGA or a backpack crammed with heals when i have stacks of Pig Skin to spare

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19 minutes ago, GetNerfedOn said:

I do this just to conserve Pig Skin xD especially because my laptop can't run caves well. But otherwise i see the point :D thanks for that

I sometimes use an LGA or a backpack crammed with heals when i have stacks of Pig Skin to spare

Just use wood armor and a beefalo hat. Safest and cheapest option if you have pig skin shortage.

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8 hours ago, Fjedjik said:

I have a question about the Klaus fight. During the fight, the player takes damage from his deers fire and ice spells.

However if you wear insulating clothing or a thermal stone, this can both decrease or increase the amount of damage taken.

However, I feel like if I take less freezing damage because of my insulation, I will take more fire damage.

So my question is, what is the ideal gear/clothing to wear during the fight?

Thats partially a misconception. The spell damage you when you stay long enough in the fire/ice AoE to be frozen or being on fire. The elemental AoE on the ground won't damage you if you move out of it fast enough.

But you can still freeze and overheat during the fight. Out of the two freezing is the easiest to handle simply because fire attack will keep you warm through the course of the fight. Also make sure that before starting the fight you warm yourself enough to the point were your character is overheating so you don't freeze if the fight take more time than expected.

Dealing with overheating is a bit more complex because if you wear too much insulation item when he does the fire attack even the AoE will damage you the reason being the overheating effect will last long enough to damage you even if you are far from any hot source.

With that said you need a balance so that you don't overheat to the point of taking damage and enough so that you don't freeze the entire fight.

I did Klaus alot and I tried different setup and I can say for sure that the best insulation item setup is by only using a thermal stone. You won't freeze of course and the fire attack won't damage you if you move quick enough. On top of all that by skipping headslot item like a Tam or a beffalo hat you can use a miner hat for night time which is very convenient for Klaus.

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2 minutes ago, GetNerfedOn said:

What Food source does one prioritize on securing early game?

I usually go for Monster meat sources - e.g. Spider Dens - due to its versatility, but aside from that, what else? should i focus on creating farms early game? or Bee Boxes?

I do not recommend creating farms early cause they're useless during Winter. Wickerbottom players or players who don't visit their base that often can go for Basic Farms, otherwise I recommend Improved Farms.

It's easier to use berries as Crock Pot Fillers cause Farms require 1x Seeds with every use and using the same kind of seeds only grants ~0.5 of the crop (cause 1x harvest only yields 1.5x Seeds + 0.5x Random Seeds).

Bee Boxes and Rabbit Hutches (1x Meat + 2x Carrot daily) are also nice food sources.

The easiest way to farm Bee Boxes is to place an Ice Flingomatic in range and burn the Box before farming them. The Bees will exit the Box & become frozen when doing so.

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3 hours ago, Viktor234 said:

I do not recommend creating farms early cause they're useless during Winter. Wickerbottom players or players who don't visit their base that often can go for Basic Farms, otherwise I recommend Improved Farms.

It's easier to use berries as Crock Pot Fillers cause Farms require 1x Seeds with every use and using the same kind of seeds only grants ~0.5 of the crop (cause 1x harvest only yields 1.5x Seeds + 0.5x Random Seeds).

Bee Boxes and Rabbit Hutches (1x Meat + 2x Carrot daily) are also nice food sources.

The easiest way to farm Bee Boxes is to place an Ice Flingomatic in range and burn the Box before farming them. The Bees will exit the Box & become frozen when doing so.

 

Alright, thanks! :D i'll keep this in note.

How do I deal with large amounts of staling food?

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why do level3 nests constantly morph into queens when I take it down to 5% hp

why do queens constantly morph back into level1 nest when I take them down to 5% hp

why do queens constantly crap out warriors when it should be 50/50 with regulars

lol fml

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6 hours ago, GetNerfedOn said:

How do I deal with large amounts of staling food?

If it's meat you can feed it to a bird in a cage to get eggs. If the eggs are going bad, then cook them and give them back to the bird. For some reason, this gives you more eggs. So you could keep eggs from spoiling for all of eternity if you really wanted to.

Another option (again, if it's meat) is to trade it with the pig king. He'll give you a gold nugget per piece of meat. The exception being monster meat, however you can convert those to eggs and trade them like that.

As for veggies... well, I suppose you could feed them to a beefalo. There's not any other uses for spoiling veggies that I can think of.

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36 minutes ago, Sinister_Fang said:

As for veggies... well, I suppose you could feed them to a beefalo. There's not any other uses for spoiling veggies that I can think of.

Either use them as Crock Pot fillers, let them turn into Rot (Only useful for Booster Shots & crafting Mushroom Planters) or place them next to a Werepig to turn all the veggies into Manure (Probably the best solution; 1x Seeds + 2x Manure can be used to fully grow a crop planted in the Improved Farm).

But if you want to have a lot of Manure I recommend to collect Light Bulbs or Juicy Berries (if available) and turn them with a Werepig into Manure.

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7 hours ago, Hell-met said:

why do level3 nests constantly morph into queens when I take it down to 5% hp

why do queens constantly morph back into level1 nest when I take them down to 5% hp

why do queens constantly crap out warriors when it should be 50/50 with regulars

lol fml

Yup, sometimes the game just wants you dead. Whenever you spawn a Spider Queen just leave the area so she can plant herself. After that you can come back and kill the den while it is still a non-tier 3 den. If you worry about having too little Spider Eggs you can Use the Moonston thingy that lets you change character, transform into Webber and craft some eggs. But usually, as long as you have one Spider Egg you can multiply it.

I exterminated all the spiders in my map,(caves too). I just use 1-4 dens in a Rabbit Hutch pen to farm Spider Glands and Silk.

Never happened to me for her to morph into a den while in a fight.

Fighting Spider Queen solo is a little bit hard. Even 2 people vs her is still hard work (actually time is what's wasted fighting with her). And in the end the rewards from killing her are kind of useless. I already have a chest full of Spider Hats. Whenever I get new ones I go and give presents to my Bunnymen. They wear it with style! ;)

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30 minutes ago, MaXaRaYkIn said:

Yup, sometimes the game just wants you dead. Whenever you spawn a Spider Queen just leave the area so she can plant herself. After that you can come back and kill the den while it is still a non-tier 3 den. If you worry about having too little Spider Eggs you can Use the Moonston thingy that lets you change character, transform into Webber and craft some eggs. But usually, as long as you have one Spider Egg you can multiply it.

What a waste of Spider Eggs, they're really expensive (A total of 24 reeds which can also be used for 3 Books). If you want to get rid of Spider Dens then I recommend you to pick Webber: Use 10x Silk on a Spider Den Tier 1 to turn it into a Tier 3 den. Hit the den once during dusk (either hit & run, using a Boomerang or hiring a spider and tell him to attack it). As soon as every spider is outside & not aggroing you, start attacking the den to get the Spider Eggs, only spiders inside the den will attack you but there aren't any Spiders available if doing so.

39 minutes ago, MaXaRaYkIn said:

Fighting Spider Queen solo is a little bit hard. Even 2 people vs her is still hard work (actually time is what's wasted fighting with her). And in the end the rewards from killing her are kind of useless. I already have a chest full of Spider Hats. Whenever I get new ones I go and give presents to my Bunnymen. They wear it with style! ;)

It's really easy to solo the Queen 1v1, especially if you already have a Spider Hat. With Spider Hat: Make sure there are some Spider Dens nearby and hire Spiders with the Spider Hat.Tell them to attack the Queen and as soon as they start attacking, put off the hat to make the spiders neutral once again. Nearby Spiders will see the Spider Queen attacking neutral Spiders and attack the Queen => free Spider Hat!

Without Spider Hat you can just use Traps to get rid of her followers. Traps (not Tooth Traps) kill Spiders instantly!

 

Seriously: With your "The ULTIMATE Q&A DST" suggestion I would really like to kick you from the world. Spider Eggs aren't made for using them as fuel or getting a total of 2 silk only once. They're really valuable and can be used as a free meat & health source.

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I don't agree about spider eggs being so valuable. As long as you have a couple of dens and/or eggs stored you could even burn the remaining ones so there won't be unwanted infestation.

Didn't know about that tricky way of killing queen tho, thanks!

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