Jumpp

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About Jumpp

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  1. That's a terrific design. I built one exactly like that last night and it works great. Thanks!
  2. Last time I checked, a couple patches back, electrolyzers emitted gas at a fixed temperature, no matter the temperature of the water source. Similarly, Air Scrubbers and Water Purifiers emitted polluted water and water, respectively, at fixed temperatures. If that's still true, all three of these might present opportunities to smuggle heat out of the game. Along those same lines, pufts and morbs might also be able to destroy heat.
  3. In precisely that situation, I decided to start over and not use so much sand next time. I made two changes: 1. I stopped using water purifiers. I tamed a steam geyser early, to get an effectively infinite supply of fresh water, and then just dumped polluted water in large reservoirs outside my main base instead of recycling it. 2. I stopped cleaning vast quantities of polluted oxygen. I still run deodorizers inside the main base, to tidy up the trace amounts of polluted O2 that get created in there, but I no longer spend sand to clean up hundreds of kgs of polluted O2. I just shove/pump the polluted air out of my way, and tolerate a fair amount of outside-the-base exposure to the stuff. It doesn't seem to be all that harmful. My sand usage is way down. Couldn't tell you exactly how much I'm using, but it's so little that I expect I won't run out until long after the next save-breaking patch.
  4. Does the amount of heat produced correlate to the amount of gas cooled? If so, we could control the heat with a gas valve just upstream of the regulator.
  5. Be aware that algae terrariums are very thirsty. They consume nearly seven times as much water as an electrolyzer to produce the same amount of O2. To use them on a large scale, you'll need a vast supply of water. Worse: You'll need a vast supply of cool water. Unlike showers and lavs and electrolyzers, you can't (easily) run them off scalding-hot water without leaking significant waste heat. Even the water purifier output is uncomfortably warm at 40C. The last time I tried drip-feeding a huge algae farm from freshly-purified water I cooked my base.
  6. I used to have the same problem: Couldn't figure out how to get ice to melt. A 20,000kg hunk of ice is going to be able to absorb a tremendous amount of heat before it melts. Warming it with air, like you're trying to do, can't work on any kind of reasonable time scale. Air isn't very dense, and is a poor conductor of heat anyway. Your 20,000kg lump of ice is in contact with, what, 1-2 kg of air? Submerging it in water would work better. Now your ice is in contact with 1,000kg of warm water instead of 1-2kg of warm air. But you'll need a tepidizer or a geyser to keep the water hot, and even then it'll take a long time. Also note that a tepidizer draws a tremendous amount of electricity. I never found a solution that'd work for you. My "solution" was to stop wanting ice to melt. It worked for me, but that may not suit your use case.
  7. That's beautiful work. Well done!
  8. Use smaller circuits. When you're setting up a new bank of power-consuming hardware, spin up an entirely new circuit instead of hooking them in to an existing one that's already got a peak load of 1920w. (As a general rule, I keep my peak circuit loads under 1400w, so there's room to add more in a pinch.) Put lots of batteries and high-priority hamster wheels on the circuits that drive critical machinery like the water pump that feeds your showers and lavs. Lower-priority wheels on stuff that can run intermittently without a big problem, like the electrolyzers, the CO2 scrubbers, or the coolant pumps. Make sure there are wheels on your circuits with coal generators so that you're not running on 100% coal. Turn off combat on all your dupes so they won't kill hatches. Keep the hatches safe and set out food for them. Each hatch will produce 125kg of coal a day. A coal generator running at peak capacity will burn 600kg of coal a day. If you're burning coal faster than you're collecting it, add more wheels, mothball coal burners, or collect more hatches.
  9. I gave up trying to maximize the output of each electrolyzer. Now I just build a bunch of 'em, all spread out, and let them breathe when they can. If they're jammed most of the time, so be it. Near as I can tell, four electrolyzers running roughly a quarter of the time generate just as much oxygen and heat, and consume just as much power and water, as one electrolyzer running at 100%.
  10. Right. And if your target temperature is below -28C, then PH2O can't get you there. You have to use something colder. However, if your target temperature is far above -28C, you've got far better options. Cooling power is indeed a property of temperature differential. But it's also a property of mass and specific heat. You can fit 10,000g of cold water into a segment of pipe, and you'll struggle to pack 600g of gas into that same volume. The water has (should have, I don't have precise figures to hand) a far greater heat capacity per unit mass. And it's got something like 16 times the density. If you're trying to cool something down to, say, 15C, 10kg of water at -15C will get you there way faster than 600g of gas at -200C. (It's also far easier and safer to handle.) Consider, for instance, a real-world example: If you put your hand in water at 80C you'll get uncomfortable burns in under a second. At 95C you'll suffer instant burns. But you can reach your arms into an oven with air temps of 180C without injury. Though the 80C water is much cooler than the 180C air, it's much denser and has a much higher specific heat, so the heat transfer is far greater.
  11. Abstract: I once saw a hatch do something unusual and very convenient for me. I've never seen that behavior since, and I'd like to. Anyone know what was up? I've had some success getting hatches to go where I want. When I want to move them laterally, I build pneumatic doors next to their burrows, then wait for them to move nearer to the goal, build another door, and repeat. When I want to move them vertically, I herd them to a convenient natural tile, then dig a shaft beneath it and then dig out the top tile, dropping them where I want. Once in a while, though, I get one loose in my base where there's no natural tile in which to burrow. These are usually difficult to move. I have to slowly deconstruct and replace tiles, herding him into a smaller and smaller area, until he can't escape and I can deconstruct the tile he's standing on. On one memorable occsasion, though, the hatch cooperated. He was at the top of my base and I wanted to get him to descend through five decks of artificial tile. I deconstructed a tile several spaces away from him...and he leapt through it, down five spaces to the deck below. I deconstructed another tile, again several spaces away from him...and once again he leapt through it. I repeated this a few more times until he came to rest at the bottom where I wanted him. I've tried this since then, and the hatches don't cooperate. Only that one hatch, that one time, went jumping down these gaps. Anyone know why he did that, and how I might get other hatches to do it in the future?
  12. Clay. The tricky thing about clay is that deodorizers produce it in frequent tiny bits. If you just set up a clay compactor, your dupes will spend a lot of time hauling 50g bits of clay. So the correct technique is: 1. Create an enclosure and herd all your hatches into it. Keep them in there by creating double-wide ladders or pneumatic doors. 2. Put a compactor in the hatch enclosure, with priority 6+, containing only clay, and set for sweep-only. 3. Important. Ensure that no other compactor is able to hold clay. 4. Manually tag large clumps of clay for sweeping. 5. From time to time, uncheck and then re-check the clay box on your compactor, to make them dump their clay. That way there's always a ready supply of clay for your hatches to eat. They can't leave the enclosure. Meanwhile, your dupes can easily get in to recover the coal, and since you never tag the clay in the enclosure for sweeping, your dupes won't try to move it.
  13. Would a polluted water noodle work better than hydrogen gas? The coolant won't be quite as cold, but it'll be far more dense. When I've tried cooling with gas, I haven't been able to get more than 1kg or so into each segment of pipe. PH2O can do 10kg per segment. If your target temperature is above zero, 10kg of coolant at -15C should get you there way faster than 1kg at -60C. I haven't run gas and liquid noodles in side-by-side tests. (That's a fun project for debug mode. Maybe I'll test it soon.) But I tried a gas noodle (O2 at around -40C or -50C?) and found it to be generally ineffective. In a later attempt I got great results with a PH2O noodle at -18C. That's not conclusive because my technique improved in many ways between those attempts. But it's suggestive, at least.
  14. Re battery heat: Wiring is cheap, and distance doesn't appear to be a factor. Batteries can be placed very far away from the circuits they're buffering. You should also use batteries if the overnight load on a circuit exceeds the output of that circuit's coal/hydrogen generators. In general, if you can tolerate the heat, you should run lots of batteries. Deep reserves of energy make your base more resilient to crises. If you run into some kind of all-hands emergency, you may have more urgent demands on your dupe time than running hamster wheels.
  15. So this is going well. The scalding-hot water is behaving as I'd hoped. The electrolyzers are mostly clustered at the bottom of the base. Pumps at the top pull hydrogen to the generator and oxygen into the ventilation system, where it gets run through two regulators and reintroduced near the bottom, just above the wheezeworts. My big discovery this game is that polluted water is an excellent coolant. I don't know what the freezing point is, but I know it's below -18C. I found a supply of very cold PH2O and set up a big loop to keep my plants cool. That gigantic refrigerator has grown. Now I keep all my batteries, generators, water purifiers, and thermal regulators in the fridge too. Along the way, I guess I HAVE learned how to make cold fresh water at scale: Run everything off of geyser water, and then all your other water supplies will eventually get nice and cold on their own. I expect I could cool the fresh water by just extending my -18C-polluted-water pipe through the freshwater tank, but that's not a problem I have anymore. My new problem is keeping my reserves of fresh water from freezing. That problem is easy. When the water temp in one tank gets down into single digits, I make a new tank, move the ice into the new tank, and redirect the excess freshwater to the new tank.